Proper Polishing
With Alden's lived in shoe thread, its clear to see that many of you know how to take care of your shoes. I have just purchased my first pair of chelsea boots and I would of course like to see them last for a while. I've heard that strong shoe trees are integral to the life of your shoes, but I wondered what the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?
EHR
EHR
My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)
I write now only to urge you to buy springless shoetrees. If by "strong" you mean "hard" or "durable", you're entirely correct: I find the best shoetrees to be of hardwood (or of American cedar -- which mightn't be classed as a hardwood) and hinged or in separate pieces: but not spring-loaded! Those will progressively distort the shapes of your shoes. And plastic shoetrees won't allow moisture to evaporate from the shoes as readily.
I write now only to urge you to buy springless shoetrees. If by "strong" you mean "hard" or "durable", you're entirely correct: I find the best shoetrees to be of hardwood (or of American cedar -- which mightn't be classed as a hardwood) and hinged or in separate pieces: but not spring-loaded! Those will progressively distort the shapes of your shoes. And plastic shoetrees won't allow moisture to evaporate from the shoes as readily.
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I had the same thought when I recently ordered a pair of Vass shoes and as a result made sure to get the three-part shoe trees. I think I would probably like hinged trees even better...less pieces to keep track of!RWS wrote:
I write now only to urge you to buy springless shoetrees. If by "strong" you mean "hard" or "durable", you're entirely correct: I find the best shoetrees to be of hardwood (or of American cedar -- which mightn't be classed as a hardwood) and hinged or in separate pieces: but not spring-loaded! Those will progressively distort the shapes of your shoes. And plastic shoetrees won't allow moisture to evaporate from the shoes as readily.
Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe...
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http://www.jmweston.com/home.html#en/3/2/4What the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?
This site recommends that shoes should be polished "once a week" which, if I recall correctly, runs contrary to the conventional wisdom previously expressed.culverwood wrote:http://www.jmweston.com/home.html#en/3/2/4What the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?
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I'd like to hear about your techniques, complicated or not.RWS wrote:My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)
.
Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe...
The Ralph Lauren Purple Label shoes (Edward Green made) come with hinged trees. Don't know if they will sell the trees separately.Concordia wrote:Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe...
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I concur with Chris Rimby, Esq.
Yes, Sir, we beg you to disclose your overly complicated secret "old Army" polishing techniques taught by your Old Man.
Yes, Sir, we beg you to disclose your overly complicated secret "old Army" polishing techniques taught by your Old Man.
RWS wrote:My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)
...<snipped>...
The JM Weston tech is not bad IMHO.
My tech is also quite possibly OTT.
1 stepp: drybrush (clean)
2 stepp: moist sponge (increase absorption)
3 stepp: putt a flame to shoe pollish (busns off some spirrits and heats the cream)
4 stepp: brush with cloth and smal brush (unique to colour of shoe)
5 stepp: massage with cloth (some swear to synthetich, I use cotton flannel)
6 stepp: repeat stepp 4&5 after 2-3 hours if this is a shoe you have not used for some time
fx if a summer loafer after long winter ...
7 stepp: Brush briskly before use with large horse hair brush.
8 stepp: Pollish with your sworn cloth of chice ...
This has served me quite welll for the last 15 years.
Speed
My tech is also quite possibly OTT.
1 stepp: drybrush (clean)
2 stepp: moist sponge (increase absorption)
3 stepp: putt a flame to shoe pollish (busns off some spirrits and heats the cream)
4 stepp: brush with cloth and smal brush (unique to colour of shoe)
5 stepp: massage with cloth (some swear to synthetich, I use cotton flannel)
6 stepp: repeat stepp 4&5 after 2-3 hours if this is a shoe you have not used for some time
fx if a summer loafer after long winter ...
7 stepp: Brush briskly before use with large horse hair brush.
8 stepp: Pollish with your sworn cloth of chice ...
This has served me quite welll for the last 15 years.
Speed
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Thanks, Speedster, for your special technique.
Sir, I'm impressed by the amount of brushing steps involved. I wonder why step 3 didn't take place as step 6 or 7, around when the polish is about to be applied.
Sir, I'm impressed by the amount of brushing steps involved. I wonder why step 3 didn't take place as step 6 or 7, around when the polish is about to be applied.
The amount of steps varies according to shoe, leather and season ...
Use the steps and method that works the best for you.
I change the amount of steps according to drynes, of weather & leather.
But It applies here just as everytwhere else, If you wish to do something properly ...
You had better be willing to spend some time & effort on it
Use the steps and method that works the best for you.
I change the amount of steps according to drynes, of weather & leather.
But It applies here just as everytwhere else, If you wish to do something properly ...
You had better be willing to spend some time & effort on it
Another datapoint: Lattanzis routinely come with lightly sprung trees-- even MTM/bespoke. Perhaps a desperate ploy for repeat business...jklu wrote:The Ralph Lauren Purple Label shoes (Edward Green made) come with hinged trees. Don't know if they will sell the trees separately.Concordia wrote:Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe...
A lott of the decent producers have maintanance techniques posted online:
Maftei in austria:
"Always insert shoe trees in the shoes after wearing.
If the shoes are wet, let them dry them on the trees before treating the leather.
Brush carefully with a soft brush to remove dust and street dirt.
Always apply creme to the shoes after every wearing.
Apply polish to the leather with a soft brush or cloth in circular motion.
Let this dry for at least ten minutes. Then bring out the shine with a soft polishing brush or cloth.
Use this technique for a high gloss shine: following each application of polish, place a drop of water on the shoe and rub this well in with a soft cloth, again using circular motion.
Let the shoes dry and repeat the polishing process in a few hours.
If your shoes have leather soles, it is recommended that these also be treated with protective creme.
After wearing your custom shoes, give them a rest of 24 hours before their next use. "
I remember finding an other nice post, will come back to that.
BTW concordia, would appreciate some Lattanzi pictures
Maftei in austria:
"Always insert shoe trees in the shoes after wearing.
If the shoes are wet, let them dry them on the trees before treating the leather.
Brush carefully with a soft brush to remove dust and street dirt.
Always apply creme to the shoes after every wearing.
Apply polish to the leather with a soft brush or cloth in circular motion.
Let this dry for at least ten minutes. Then bring out the shine with a soft polishing brush or cloth.
Use this technique for a high gloss shine: following each application of polish, place a drop of water on the shoe and rub this well in with a soft cloth, again using circular motion.
Let the shoes dry and repeat the polishing process in a few hours.
If your shoes have leather soles, it is recommended that these also be treated with protective creme.
After wearing your custom shoes, give them a rest of 24 hours before their next use. "
I remember finding an other nice post, will come back to that.
BTW concordia, would appreciate some Lattanzi pictures
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