Proper Polishing

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

EHR
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Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:50 pm

With Alden's lived in shoe thread, its clear to see that many of you know how to take care of your shoes. I have just purchased my first pair of chelsea boots and I would of course like to see them last for a while. I've heard that strong shoe trees are integral to the life of your shoes, but I wondered what the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?

EHR
RWS
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Tue Dec 04, 2007 6:13 pm

My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)

I write now only to urge you to buy springless shoetrees. If by "strong" you mean "hard" or "durable", you're entirely correct: I find the best shoetrees to be of hardwood (or of American cedar -- which mightn't be classed as a hardwood) and hinged or in separate pieces: but not spring-loaded! Those will progressively distort the shapes of your shoes. And plastic shoetrees won't allow moisture to evaporate from the shoes as readily.
Chris Rimby
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Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:48 pm

RWS wrote:
I write now only to urge you to buy springless shoetrees. If by "strong" you mean "hard" or "durable", you're entirely correct: I find the best shoetrees to be of hardwood (or of American cedar -- which mightn't be classed as a hardwood) and hinged or in separate pieces: but not spring-loaded! Those will progressively distort the shapes of your shoes. And plastic shoetrees won't allow moisture to evaporate from the shoes as readily.
I had the same thought when I recently ordered a pair of Vass shoes and as a result made sure to get the three-part shoe trees. I think I would probably like hinged trees even better...less pieces to keep track of!
rjman
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:38 am

Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe... :twisted:
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culverwood
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:08 pm

What the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?
http://www.jmweston.com/home.html#en/3/2/4
Aristide
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:57 pm

culverwood wrote:
What the proper polishing technique is to ensure the long lives of your shoes?
http://www.jmweston.com/home.html#en/3/2/4
This site recommends that shoes should be polished "once a week" which, if I recall correctly, runs contrary to the conventional wisdom previously expressed.
Chris Rimby
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:32 pm

RWS wrote:My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)
.
I'd like to hear about your techniques, complicated or not.
Concordia
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:44 pm

rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe... :twisted:
Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?
jklu
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:13 pm

Concordia wrote:
rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe... :twisted:
Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?
The Ralph Lauren Purple Label shoes (Edward Green made) come with hinged trees. Don't know if they will sell the trees separately.
HappyStroller
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Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:54 pm

I concur with Chris Rimby, Esq.

Yes, Sir, we beg you to disclose your overly complicated secret "old Army" polishing techniques taught by your Old Man.
RWS wrote:My own polishing techniques probably are unnecessarily complicated, as a West Pointer of "the old Army" -- my father -- taught them to me; so I'll respect the doubtless simpler and probably no less effective instructions of other Loungers. (I will say, however, that even my good mass-made shoes generally give presentable service for more than twenty or twenty-five years, so the techniques are useful.)
...<snipped>...
speedster
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Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:40 pm

The JM Weston tech is not bad IMHO.

My tech is also quite possibly OTT.

1 stepp: drybrush (clean)
2 stepp: moist sponge (increase absorption)
3 stepp: putt a flame to shoe pollish (busns off some spirrits and heats the cream)
4 stepp: brush with cloth and smal brush (unique to colour of shoe)
5 stepp: massage with cloth (some swear to synthetich, I use cotton flannel)
6 stepp: repeat stepp 4&5 after 2-3 hours if this is a shoe you have not used for some time
fx if a summer loafer after long winter ...
7 stepp: Brush briskly before use with large horse hair brush.
8 stepp: Pollish with your sworn cloth of chice ...

This has served me quite welll for the last 15 years.

Speed
HappyStroller
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Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:19 pm

Thanks, Speedster, for your special technique.

Sir, I'm impressed by the amount of brushing steps involved. I wonder why step 3 didn't take place as step 6 or 7, around when the polish is about to be applied.
speedster
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Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:01 am

The amount of steps varies according to shoe, leather and season ...
Use the steps and method that works the best for you.
I change the amount of steps according to drynes, of weather & leather.

But It applies here just as everytwhere else, If you wish to do something properly ...
You had better be willing to spend some time & effort on it ;-)
Concordia
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Sun Dec 09, 2007 4:12 am

jklu wrote:
Concordia wrote:
rjman wrote:Another vote in favor of lasted and hinged trees. When I see collections of Greens with nasty sprung Bexley trees too wide in the heel, I cringe... :twisted:
Green sells sprung trees to go with their shoes. Are there sources of non-bespoke hinged trees?
The Ralph Lauren Purple Label shoes (Edward Green made) come with hinged trees. Don't know if they will sell the trees separately.
Another datapoint: Lattanzis routinely come with lightly sprung trees-- even MTM/bespoke. Perhaps a desperate ploy for repeat business...
speedster
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Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:08 pm

A lott of the decent producers have maintanance techniques posted online:
Maftei in austria:
"Always insert shoe trees in the shoes after wearing.
If the shoes are wet, let them dry them on the trees before treating the leather.
Brush carefully with a soft brush to remove dust and street dirt.
Always apply creme to the shoes after every wearing.
Apply polish to the leather with a soft brush or cloth in circular motion.
Let this dry for at least ten minutes. Then bring out the shine with a soft polishing brush or cloth.
Use this technique for a high gloss shine: following each application of polish, place a drop of water on the shoe and rub this well in with a soft cloth, again using circular motion.
Let the shoes dry and repeat the polishing process in a few hours.
If your shoes have leather soles, it is recommended that these also be treated with protective creme.
After wearing your custom shoes, give them a rest of 24 hours before their next use. "


I remember finding an other nice post, will come back to that.

BTW concordia, would appreciate some Lattanzi pictures
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