Grey flannel suits

[Concordia]

So-- given that there is no single correct answer, how would members bias their allocation of flannel to SB or DB suits? My own thought at the moment is DB in mid grey, as the lighter fabric shows more lines and will divide up the torso visually. Darker flannel doesn't really need that help with SB, as you can let the shirt space and tie divide up the field.

Other preferences?

[davidhuh]

Dear Condordia,

Interesting topic indeed , I never thought it through the way you do, and never used any rational criteria to decide between DB & SB. I look at the cloth, and think about what might be the more suitable cut and where I would mostly wear it.

All my flannels except 2 are DB, and one of the two was the tailors mistake - I wanted DB but he cut for an SB. It turned out to be a success nevertheless.. Climate may play a role though. A heavy flannel DB might be too much in a moderate or warmer climate.

Cheers, David

[Concordia]

Ah, yes. The climate and the multiple folds in front. Worth consideration for all colors of heavy flannel.

[Jannis]

I do share the opinion of David regarding rational criteria but I have to confess that all my grey flannel suits are in fact DB….somehow the cloth decides.

[Nem500]

Interesting discussion. I don’t currently have a single flannel suit, only trousers (5 pairs in various shades of grey).

I’m planning on ordering my first flannel suit, probably with a faint PoW pattern. I would like a DB, but I wonder how versatile such a suit would be. My only DB suit is in linen, where the casual nature of the cloth makes it easier to wear in less formal settings. I also have tweed and hopsack DB jackets, which can be worn relatively causally. Could a flannel jacket ever be worn by itself without looking like an orfaned suit jacket? Can a flannel DB suit work without a tie ? (Probably with a roll neck at least). How do you wear yours?

[davidhuh]

Dear Nem,

see comments below

Interesting discussion. I don’t currently have a single flannel suit, only trousers (5 pairs in various shades of grey).

I’m planning on ordering my first flannel suit, probably with a faint PoW pattern. I would like a DB, but I wonder how versatile such a suit would be.

If this is your first flannel suit, I would suggest that you go for SB. You will most likely wear it more often than a DB.

My only DB suit is in linen, where the casual nature of the cloth makes it easier to wear in less formal settings.

This is interesting. Linen is a summer cloth and never "formal". A DB cut impacts its use a lot, because it wears too warm. I would add a linen DB only if I had at least 4 or five SB coats in linen.

I also have tweed and hopsack DB jackets, which can be worn relatively causally.

Hopsack DBs are a staple. I'm less convinced about tweed, but the tweed I'm wearing is on the heavy side. DB would not work, and I like layering with waistcoats and pullovers with tweed.

Could a flannel jacket ever be worn by itself without looking like an orfaned suit jacket?

Depends on the pattern. Plain colour always works and so does PoW. Stripes and double stripes rather not.

Can a flannel DB suit work without a tie ? (Probably with a roll neck at least). How do you wear yours?

Generally, I wear a tie, sometimes a bow tie. Roll neck works well with a plain or PoW pattern. Without a tie doesn't look good. Historically, the DB cut has a military connotation, which makes wearing a tie sort of mandatory.

Cheers, David

[Anikolov1]

Flannel is a rather unusual material today for a suit, not commonly seen at the workplace. When I want to absolutely not draw attention I wear a SB worsted cloth but more and more I care less how what I wear is perceived by others and more about what brings ‘me joy. So I will be going for DB for both my Mid gray and Midnight LL flannels. I also have an old English blue DB flannel (Fox 18 oz) in the works as a DB from a Neapolitan tailor. It was inspired by a suit from Douglas himself that I particularly liked. I don’t intend flannel suits to be my workhorse suits so I plan to make them DBs.

[Concordia]

Strolling around in pajamas provides a lovely sensation.

[jonathans]

Flannel is a rather unusual material today for a suit, not commonly seen at the workplace. When I want to absolutely not draw attention I wear a SB worsted cloth but more and more I care less how what I wear is perceived by others and more about what brings ‘me joy. So I will be going for DB for both my Mid gray and Midnight LL flannels. I also have an old English blue DB flannel (Fox 18 oz) in the works as a DB from a Neapolitan tailor. It was inspired by a suit from Douglas himself that I particularly liked. I don’t intend flannel suits to be my workhorse suits so I plan to make them DBs.

Sounds like a nice haul. Out of curiosity, which Neapolitan tailor are you using? Are you in New York or London?

I have my first sb mid gray flannel suit on order, should be ready for the fall. It’s an old Harrison’s flannel, back when fox made the Harrison’s flannel. Also have a db navy chalkstripe which will be ready when I visit Italy in November.

I’m currently thinking about a vintage fox flannel that’s in the 540g range made up as a double breasted (medium-dark gray vs. medium-light gray). Other peoples thoughts are welcome! I’m just not sure if I need another flannel suit right now.

[Nem500]

Thanks for your thoughts David.

My only DB suit is in linen, where the casual nature of the cloth makes it easier to wear in less formal settings.

This is interesting. Linen is a summer cloth and never "formal". A DB cut impacts its use a lot, because it wears too warm. I would add a linen DB only if I had at least 4 or five SB coats in linen.

I have two linen SB suits, so the DB was the third. It is as you say, linen is a casual cloth so it tones down the formality of the DB. It does indeed wear warmer than an SB but I live in Stockholm where summer temperatures are rarely above 20-25C (and cooler in the evening). The suit was commissioned when I lived in London, where it could be worn less often. This summer has been cool in northern Europe so it's been my most used suit so far.

I also have tweed and hopsack DB jackets, which can be worn relatively causally.

Hopsack DBs are a staple. I'm less convinced about tweed, but the tweed I'm wearing is on the heavy side. DB would not work, and I like layering with waistcoats and pullovers with tweed.

Regarding the tweed DB jacket. I saw my tailor wearing one a few winters back and I liked the idea. This past spring, I saw another customer's SB tweed jacket and I liked the fabric so I ordered the DB. I haven't worn it yet. I do plan to use it mainly as outerwear in the autumn and early winter as an alternative to a topcoat. It's been cut a little bit loser so a Shetland sweater can fit underneath. I already have a heavy tweed SB that I use in this way. It could only really be worn inside in a building that's not heated beyond 20C.

I should look for images of men wearing plane or PoW flannel suits more casually (i.e. with roll necks) for inspiration.

[Nem500]

Flannel is a rather unusual material today for a suit, not commonly seen at the workplace. When I want to absolutely not draw attention I wear a SB worsted cloth but more and more I care less how what I wear is perceived by others and more about what brings ‘me joy. So I will be going for DB for both my Mid gray and Midnight LL flannels. I also have an old English blue DB flannel (Fox 18 oz) in the works as a DB from a Neapolitan tailor. It was inspired by a suit from Douglas himself that I particularly liked. I don’t intend flannel suits to be my workhorse suits so I plan to make them DBs.

It is indeed an unusual fabric these days. My fairly standard heavy grey flannel trousers have received plenty of compliments. I work in the IT industry which for better or worse (I'd say worse) is very casual, so I don't wear a suit. I wear occasionally a tweed jacket. That's as far as I feel comfortable pushing.

I mainly wear suits (in corduroy, tweed and linen primarily) for social events, going out with the missus or friends. Any flannel suit would be worn in such a context.

[alden]

I have been fortunate to have all my clothes made from the best cloth and the best craftsmen the world can offer, so anything I wear will be more or less fine. But my clothes do not dictate my dress because I dress by feel and choose the clothes that make me feel great on any particular day.

Style is a living thing, it feels and manifests itself in a different way almost everyday. One day you are full of energy, rested, ready to take on the world. On the next day you might be the exact opposite. Your style moves instinctively to accommodate you.

Imagine you are wearing your ideal look one day. Now wear the exact same thing five days in a row. By the third day that ideal look is not as ideal as it was the first day, is it? And by the fifth day you won’t want to look at yourself. Your ideal dress has not changed, but you have.

Following instinct is what Balzac means when he says “the elegant man dresses.” It should be as simple and effortless as the feel of a cool breeze.

So if you are just starting out, use your instincts to choose the cloth, colors and fit your native style instructs. It will guide you well. If you let it.

[Nem500]

I have been fortunate to have all my clothes made from the best cloth and the best craftsmen the world can offer, so anything I wear will be more or less fine. But my clothes do not dictate my dress because I dress by feel and choose the clothes that make me feel great on any particular day.

Style is a living thing, it feels and manifests itself in a different way almost everyday. One day you are full of energy, rested, ready to take on the world. On the next day you might be the exact opposite. Your style moves instinctively to accommodate you.

Imagine you are wearing your ideal look one day. Now wear the exact same thing five days in a row. By the third day that ideal look is not as ideal as it was the first day, is it? And by the fifth day you won’t want to look at yourself. Your ideal dress has not changed, but you have.

Following instinct is what Balzac means when he says “the elegant man dresses.” It should be as simple and effortless as the feel of a cool breeze.

So if you are just starting out, use your instincts to choose the cloth, colors and fit your native style instructs. It will guide you well. If you let it.

Wise words.

I couldn’t agree more that style is a living thing, tempered and shaped by the context and feelings of the day.