Steven Hitchcock Wabi Sabi

[Anikolov1]

Dear fellow club members,

I am seeking your assistance with the ongoing project of my first suit from Steven. I have had my first basted fitting and when I can, I will have a second basted fitting (due to numerous changes esp. in front back balance).

Could you please share some feedback based on your experience of how this looks and what I should look out for?


https://ibb.co/SfR1XjN

https://ibb.co/fGb53qd

https://ibb.co/m8wstMM

https://ibb.co/BHJWcJy

Wishing you happy holidays,
Best
Alex

[Concordia]

Steven will make it fit well. The only suggestion I have is to shorten the trousers a bit. Less break in front.

[aston]

Looks like they are chalked to be shortened at the front already. I would lift the back rise on the trousers to make them cleaner above the knee.

[davidhuh]

Dear Alex,

good to see that some of us keep the tailors occupied in these rough times.

This is coming along very nicely. Trust this tailor! I would not comment at this point, because the first fitting is really the tailors fitting. I usually make comments to a tailor only from the 2nd fitting. Good luck and enjoy the process

Cheers, David

[alden]

Alex

L:ooks great. Just let Steven work his magic for you. He is an absolute Master.

Merry Christmas!

Cheers

[jhwilliams]

Absolutely beautiful. I will be bringing along my RAF wabi sabi to Steven at the end of the month.

[Anikolov1]

Dear all,

I had a fitting with Steven today and I have brought images.

I am generally happy with how it’s progressing, although not all changes that were discussed and noted down last time we’re done and so we had to discuss them again.

https://ibb.co/PgDdSFV

https://ibb.co/bbc80nS

https://ibb.co/Y2jHHHs

https://ibb.co/f4n8ndj

https://ibb.co/0mVzJpY

Perhaps an odd question and probably one that deserves its own thread, but do you have an amiable relationship with your tailors? I am not sure but Steven and I don’t seem to “click” and after every meeting I am left a bit bitter by his attitude towards me. I have tried 4 other tailors and I have never had that, They were genuinely happy to work with me. I am left with the feeling that once I leave the room, Steven would turn to his wife and sigh and complain about me as a client (I do ask him questions but out of interest and certainly not so much as to be objectively annoying).

Best,
Alex

[Concordia]

Take a look at the tailor's ticket that sometimes gets left in the breast pocket. Supposedly there is an abbreviation/acronym for 'difficult client', analogous to the 'FLK' for 'funny looking kid' that makes it onto some pediatric hospital charts.

[aston]

To my eye it doesn't look like much has changed between fittings. I think I would share your discomfort.

[davidhuh]

Perhaps an odd question and probably one that deserves its own thread, but do you have an amiable relationship with your tailors? I am not sure but Steven and I don’t seem to “click” and after every meeting I am left a bit bitter by his attitude towards me. I have tried 4 other tailors and I have never had that, They were genuinely happy to work with me. I am left with the feeling that once I leave the room, Steven would turn to his wife and sigh and complain about me as a client (I do ask him questions but out of interest and certainly not so much as to be objectively annoying).

Best,
Alex

Dear Alex,

it is tough times for tailors like Mr Hitchcock. You are a young client, he has every interest to keep you happy. Bear that in mind.

The relationship you want to have with your tailor is between you and your tailor - you are the client and on the driving seat, you define the frame.

I would never describe my relation to a tailor as "amiable", but as respectful and professional. I know about their wife and kids, I know their birthday and send wishes, and sometimes, I come with a good bottle. I keep track of agreements, and they know that. If I'm unhappy with something, I'm extra calm and take them by their professional pride.

I would suggest that you raise it with him. Play naive, tell him how you feel and see how he reacts. Sometimes, it boils down to simply chemistry. If this is the case, there is little you can do - you should finish your suits and look for another tailor. That would be a pity, because Mr Hitchcock is a great tailor.

Cheers, David

[Screaminmarlon]

Perhaps an odd question and probably one that deserves its own thread, but do you have an amiable relationship with your tailors? I am not sure but Steven and I don’t seem to “click” and after every meeting I am left a bit bitter by his attitude towards me. I have tried 4 other tailors and I have never had that, They were genuinely happy to work with me. I am left with the feeling that once I leave the room, Steven would turn to his wife and sigh and complain about me as a client (I do ask him questions but out of interest and certainly not so much as to be objectively annoying).

Best,
Alex

Dear Alex,

it is tough times for tailors like Mr Hitchcock. You are a young client, he has every interest to keep you happy. Bear that in mind.

The relationship you want to have with your tailor is between you and your tailor - you are the client and on the driving seat, you define the frame.

I would never describe my relation to a tailor as "amiable", but as respectful and professional. I know about their wife and kids, I know their birthday and send wishes, and sometimes, I come with a good bottle. I keep track of agreements, and they know that. If I'm unhappy with something, I'm extra calm and take them by their professional pride.

I would suggest that you raise it with him. Play naive, tell him how you feel and see how he reacts. Sometimes, it boils down to simply chemistry. If this is the case, there is little you can do - you should finish your suits and look for another tailor. That would be a pity, because Mr Hitchcock is a great tailor.

Cheers, David

I agree with everything David said; leave it some room, play naive: a good taylor (or a very very good one like Hitchcock) wouldn’t ever let a less than satisfactory work get out of his/her shop, you only have to clearly share your requirements and nonchalantly note if something is amiss.
Then, once and then, you can end up with a notch lapel instead of a peak lapel

[Scot]

I have just worked it out and I think I have probably used seven or eight cutters over the years, mostly out of curiosity and, objectively, probably not a good idea. I have enjoyed the experience with almost all of them. I find that tailors listen, but only up to a point. In the end they all do what they think is right and my approach has been to respect that and let them get on with it. They have each had their strengths and weaknesses, bespoke is not an exact science, so I go by the result. If after a few tries I have not been happy I have moved on. SH is one of the seven and, technically, probably the best.

[davidhuh]

I have just worked it out and I think I have probably used seven or eight cutters over the years, mostly out of curiosity and, objectively, probably not a good idea. I have enjoyed the experience with almost all of them. I find that tailors listen, but only up to a point. In the end they all do what they think is right and my approach has been to respect that and let them get on with it. They have each had their strengths and weaknesses, bespoke is not an exact science, so I go by the result. If after a few tries I have not been happy I have moved on. SH is one of the seven and, technically, probably the best.

Dear Scot,

"In the end they all do what they think is right" hits the nail. A tailor is a craftsman, and he knows what he is doing. Imposing something they are not comfortable with is a recipe for disaster. So I usually let them do what they think they do well...

Cheers, David

[Anikolov1]

I did reach out to Steven over email and say that I would like to have a good relationship with him and that if I caused offense in any way, I apologize.

For me the best tailoring experience hands down is working with Michael Browne. His style is stronger but he is technically a master and tailoring is really a conversation and collaboration. With him I feel that it is both of us working towards the same goal and we are a team, whereas I have often felt I am working against someone who is trying to rip me off (all other tailors including Steven have closed their eyes on issues with balance and are a bit sore when I point them out). I promise I am not a pain to work with but if the front is an inch shorter that the back, my collar is not sitting on my neck or the drape is collapsing on the side, I do ask how can we resolve this. I have been a very good client in terms of payment, bringing a small gift from time to time, always on time and not overstaying my welcome, so I just expect no major flaws to be allowed to go out the workshop. Also, I wouldn’t say I am too prescriptive or instructive about the clothes, as I couldn’t possibly know as much as the tailor. The one point I am a bit stricter on is length as I don’t like short coats at all, but I allow a tailor to realize his own vision of a longer coat.

In Italy the tailor is a good man, good tailor but the communication is impossible as he doesn’t speak English, I don’t speak Italian and it ends up being me showing him a spot and saying that I want it a bit “bigger” or “smaller”.

With Sian from Whitcomb and Shaftesbury the relationship has been good. She has made several rather large mistakes in cutting, so there the technical skills are not the greatest but actually her garments are the ones I wear the most. The one thing she absolutely nailed are how the coat hangs from the collar. Whatever I do my collar doesn’t move, so I am very confident in wearing it. Also, the team has tried to resolve all issues and have recut garments after they had already been made up fully.

[aston]

I have just worked it out and I think I have probably used seven or eight cutters over the years, mostly out of curiosity and, objectively, probably not a good idea. I have enjoyed the experience with almost all of them. I find that tailors listen, but only up to a point. In the end they all do what they think is right and my approach has been to respect that and let them get on with it. They have each had their strengths and weaknesses, bespoke is not an exact science, so I go by the result. If after a few tries I have not been happy I have moved on. SH is one of the seven and, technically, probably the best.

Dear Scot,

"In the end they all do what they think is right" hits the nail. A tailor is a craftsman, and he knows what he is doing. Imposing something they are not comfortable with is a recipe for disaster. So I usually let them do what they think they do well...

Cheers, David

Dear David

I could not agree less with your comment on recipe for disaster. You need to start by making sure the tailor knows what you want, and agreeing on that point. That gives the tailor the chance to say they are not comfortable with it, and you can shake hands before anyone's time or money is wasted. Once you agree and the job gets underway, any changes to what was originally agreed should only be made as a result of further discussion and agreement. I have rarely met a tailor who works on the basis than they know what is better for their client than their client does.