If you had to start over again, where would you begin and which tailor would you pick?

[Anikolov1]

Dear LL members,
If you had to pick a tailor on the row today who would you pick and why? When the dust settles with the ongoing pandemic, I would like to commission a suit from a row tailor and am wondering between Dege and Skinner and Richard Anderson (two button, straight flaps). I have had one off the row tailor with whom I wasn’t satisfied and one Neapolitan whose style doesn’t work too well with formal suit (even if it’s the most traditional old school Neapolitan). I don’t really need to buy into a name or reputation as nobody would know who my tailor is but I simply don’t want to keep commissioning items I am not satisfied with ( I have difficult shoulders).
Also, for discussion’s sake, where would you start? Which have been your go-to suit styles and fabrics?
Looking forward to reading your insights,
Alex

[Screaminmarlon]

Can’t speak about the Row, but I’d have made the same suits I had when started (I still wear those):

- Navy coat SB 3b plus grey trousers (you can either choose light gray and medium, or dark)

- a grey suit (a light grey birdseye SB 3b in a 13oz in my case, but anything from herringbone to sharkskin - my second grey suit - to a plain will do)

- a dark grey suit SB

Choose a worthy cloth: if I were you, I’ll get a lenght of Wabi Sabi (current sub), a lenght of Fumo di Londra (right now you have 2 subs: mohair and flannel, maybe you can get flannel at later stage) and have a look for some Brisa (13oz high twist, very versatile cloth) in blue or even Ultimate Blazer
Saluti

[Concordia]

I don't knot that I am dying to fire any of my tailors right now. First call for SB is Steven Hitchcock. His style can be a little cloth-dependent, but his best work is very good for my shape.

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has John McCabe doing one day per week and a very talented young woman named Sian doing the main part of the week. Typical traditional SR cut, but they are also using a more or less unconstructed model that also offers promise. Again, the best of their stuff has turned out remarkably well for me. Their Indian-made option is of very high quality, and about 40% of the price of London-tailored suits. As a fresh start with a new wardrobe, that offers some practical advantages.

For classic DB, Anderson & Sheppard do well for me. No idea if it would be the same if I didn't have an old Hitchcock pattern on file, but I still like the results. Their 3-button sport jackets work very well for me also. As a benefit, they are one of the best makers of belted trousers (for me, that is). Denman & Goddard is also good at that, and maybe more pleasing in construction details.

Oddball choices: WW Chan makes a DB that fits unusually well. Belted trousers, too, are wonderfully cut, even though they don't have anywhere near the construction quality of the London shops.

Napoli su Misura I like also for belted trousers (as well as shirts). Excellent fit, if somewhat dodgy choices of zipper, and a lack of British skill in attaching buttons.

The only firm I'd think to add to the mix is Malcolm Plews. I brushed against him when he ran damage control at Dege a few decades ago, and had a few remote-fitted pieces made while he was at Welsh & Jeffries. If I ever get back to the UK, I shall have him do a suit start-to-finish.

[Anikolov1]

Malcolm Plews looks like a tremendous recommendation and has got me intrigued. I would go and meet with him on my return to London. I liked what I saw from his gallery and would much rather deal with a single maker than a large house.
Steven is great, I have considered him many times and perhaps someday I may try him out.
Sian cut me a suit at Whitcomb and Shaftesbury and the result of mine was somewhat disappointing with low armholes, little waist definition (I am tall and slim) and a collar that doesn’t sit on my neck. I know many of the issues could be rectified with subsequent commissions, but that initial disappointment somewhat prevents me from going back. The value at W&S is great and that’s why I chose it for my first suit commission a while back in order to learn and do not regret doing it this way.

[G Charles Blue]

If you have "difficult shoulders" might I suggest you contact Frank aka Old Henry. The gentleman knows how to fit and pattern...two amongst many other skills.

Cheers,

Gregory

[Concordia]

Malcolm Plews looks like a tremendous recommendation and has got me intrigued. I would go and meet with him on my return to London. I liked what I saw from his gallery and would much rather deal with a single maker than a large house.
Steven is great, I have considered him many times and perhaps someday I may try him out.
Sian cut me a suit at Whitcomb and Shaftesbury and the result of mine was somewhat disappointing with low armholes, little waist definition (I am tall and slim) and a collar that doesn’t sit on my neck. I know many of the issues could be rectified with subsequent commissions, but that initial disappointment somewhat prevents me from going back. The value at W&S is great and that’s why I chose it for my first suit commission a while back in order to learn and do not regret doing it this way.

The W&S unconstructed jackets seem to have much higher armholes. And while that is not the main feature of their standard cut, you can ask for that plus shoulder drape to get more mobility.

[Scot]

I would echo many of Concordia's comments, except that I haven't used A&S.

Malcolm Plews was my first SR tailor - what a guy and what a cutter. My only comment would be that he is getting on a bit and if you are looking to build a relationship that will endure for 20 or 30 years you might be better to look at younger tailors.

In recent years I have moved away from structure and both SH and Steed do a great job in a softer style.

I have often wondered about Henry Poole but I don't know the cutters there and its probably time I stopped experimenting!

[davidhuh]

Can’t speak about the Row, but I’d have made the same suits I had when started (I still wear those):

- Navy coat SB 3b plus grey trousers (you can either choose light gray and medium, or dark)

- a grey suit (a light grey birdseye SB 3b in a 13oz in my case, but anything from herringbone to sharkskin - my second grey suit - to a plain will do)

- a dark grey suit SB

Choose a worthy cloth: if I were you, I’ll get a lenght of Wabi Sabi (current sub), a lenght of Fumo di Londra (right now you have 2 subs: mohair and flannel, maybe you can get flannel at later stage) and have a look for some Brisa (13oz high twist, very versatile cloth) in blue or even Ultimate Blazer
Saluti

Dear Alex,

very much agree with Screamin's list above.

What specific tailors are concerned, I'm not so sure if name-dropping is helpful.. I have a faible for older tailors, but what works for me might not be your cup of tea. A successful collaboration between a tailor and me takes time to develop, but you should have the feeling to be in good hands from the beginning. So if you would spend a day interviewing tailors for a specific project, It wouldn't hurt, and it may be well invested time. Handling your difficult shoulders should not be a problem for an experienced tailor.

Cheers, David

[radicalchink]

I don't knot that I am dying to fire any of my tailors right now. First call for SB is Steven Hitchcock. His style can be a little cloth-dependent, but his best work is very good for my shape.

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has John McCabe doing one day per week and a very talented young woman named Sian doing the main part of the week. Typical traditional SR cut, but they are also using a more or less unconstructed model that also offers promise. Again, the best of their stuff has turned out remarkably well for me. Their Indian-made option is of very high quality, and about 40% of the price of London-tailored suits. As a fresh start with a new wardrobe, that offers some practical advantages.

For classic DB, Anderson & Sheppard do well for me. No idea if it would be the same if I didn't have an old Hitchcock pattern on file, but I still like the results. Their 3-button sport jackets work very well for me also. As a benefit, they are one of the best makers of belted trousers (for me, that is). Denman & Goddard is also good at that, and maybe more pleasing in construction details.

Oddball choices: WW Chan makes a DB that fits unusually well. Belted trousers, too, are wonderfully cut, even though they don't have anywhere near the construction quality of the London shops.

Napoli su Misura I like also for belted trousers (as well as shirts). Excellent fit, if somewhat dodgy choices of zipper, and a lack of British skill in attaching buttons.

The only firm I'd think to add to the mix is Malcolm Plews. I brushed against him when he ran damage control at Dege a few decades ago, and had a few remote-fitted pieces made while he was at Welsh & Jeffries. If I ever get back to the UK, I shall have him do a suit start-to-finish.

What would you say are Hitchcock's sweet spots cloth-wise?

[Melcombe]

What specific tailors are concerned, I'm not so sure if name-dropping is helpful.. I have a faible for older tailors, but what works for me might not be your cup of tea. A successful collaboration between a tailor and me takes time to develop, but you should have the feeling to be in good hands from the beginning. So if you would spend a day interviewing tailors for a specific project, It wouldn't hurt, and it may be well invested time. Handling your difficult shoulders should not be a problem for an experienced tailor.

Cheers, David

That's the right approach, Im sure - but I also align very much with David's preferences for older tailors and also that their best work often takes time to develop. Ive been with my tailor a while - my first suits / coats were certainly good, but the subsequent projects have been on a different plane altogether.

My disinclination towards Row tailoring is partly due to the inevitable process of the bigger houses : large teams of people, however skillful, also require good communication between them so that the making matches the measuring. If you're an 'interesting' shape, that places particular burdens on the process - if you can develop a very good and creative realtionship with the cutter, that may overcome my perceived problem, however a tailor who carries out the entire process him/herself surely has a singular advantage on that point.

It also tends to mean they are not located in London W1, but somewhere more apt for the naturally 'self-isolating' lone wolf.

Like upstate NY f'rinstance..

[rjman]

If I was starting over again now and had the means I would go right back to Steed. Excellent work, honest, honorable and accommodating, Great guys too.

[Anikolov1]

If I was starting over again now and had the means I would go right back to Steed. Excellent work, honest, honorable and accommodating, Great guys too.

Dear rjman,
I really like their work. For soft style it would be between them and Steven. I don’t know how I will chose. I especially like their style for odd jackets.
And they have been very successful at answering queries on social media which is simply good service.
Cheers,
Alex

[davidhuh]

If I was starting over again now and had the means I would go right back to Steed. Excellent work, honest, honorable and accommodating, Great guys too.

Dear rjman,
I really like their work. For soft style it would be between them and Steven. I don’t know how I will chose. I especially like their style for odd jackets.
And they have been very successful at answering queries on social media which is simply good service.
Cheers,
Alex

Dear Alex,

You will be in good hands with both

Cheers, David

[couch]

Plus one for Steed. Their success means that the communication with coat makers can still occasionally create a hiccup, especially as they are doing the necessary work of training young sewing tailors, but I have more than half a dozen jackets from them now that have all, in the end, turned out superbly. At some point I'll get some photos together of the LL cloths in the portfolio. They currently have my brown and natural LL Shetlands from the recent subscriptions. I expect the brown to reach final finish as soon as it's safe to meet them again. Real princes.

I also had some good results early on from Poole, first with Phillip Parker as cutter and since with Alex Cooke. Phillip is an amazingly skilled cutter but doesn't really travel any more, and Alex is a great guy and worthy successor. I was introduced at Poole by former member collarmelton. He and Phillip Parker went overboard to rescue my faith in the Row after a disastrous experience with Darren Beaman (some of you will remember that name . . . ). Poole's house style is middle-of-the-road SR but they are very flexible and, at least in my experience, capable of properly executing departures such as more or less drape, different shoulder expressions, etc. Also in my experience (I haven't used them in several years), making it clear that you recognize and prize details of finish (buttonhole quality, etc.) as an enthusiast will clue them to assign the finishing to the best of their stable, and the results will show. Buttonholes on my first Poole suit are the finest and most evenly worked I've seen from an English tailor and stand comparison to the best Italians. But I've seen some Poole suits, including at second-hand shops, where the finish was just competent. Perhaps all craftsmen do their best work when they know it will be appreciated, but in a larger shop it may be more important to make that apparent. I recall once wearing that suit in to Beckenstein's fabrics in Manhattan (where I found an amazing remnant of heavy undyed linen) and the owner stopped me to (politely) demand to know who made that suit? I told him and he gave a satisfied smile. I didn't have the heart to tell him I'd acquired the cloth at Tip-Top in Brooklyn on a trip with manton, collarmelton, smoothjazz, Mark Seitelman, and some other LL stalwarts.

[davidhuh]

I didn't have the heart to tell him I'd acquired the cloth at Tip-Top in Brooklyn on a trip with manton, collarmelton, smoothjazz, Mark Seitelman, and some other LL stalwarts.