Balanced Lapels

[alden]

I spoke about Balanced Lapels yesterday in a discussion of Old Henry’s handsome DB creation. The two Lapel examples below are very different in size and shape, but they have one thing in common. They are Balanced.

2NXihAbvQwyZOtDFZfeQiA_thumb_26fc by The London Lounge, on Flickr

V7Yq8L1ZTZWfPK4OemZUUw_thumb_26fb by The London Lounge, on Flickr

The FU lapels in the first example are imposing both from their breadth and their length. But the large dimensions of the lapels does not stand out because of their balance, the harmony that starts at the rich roll from the button point on up.

The lapels in the second example are smaller, both in their breadth and length. The roll from the button point is, as a consequence, more narrow. It is in Balance with the rest of the lapel that is narrow.

Elements in Balance, as in these two lapels, produce an aesthetically pleasing image. What we want to avoid are imbalances that make an element stand out from the whole. And in DB jackets you often see the thin roll at the button point from example number two paired with the great width of the lapel at the notch from example one. This is something often seen in Neapolitan DB coats. It makes the lapel appear like great Elephant’s ears that overpower the image. What we see are huge, imbalanced lapels. We don’t see the coat.

Cheers

[old henry]

Michael , as you know , Tailors today use the same pattern right off the wall for all customers with only basic changes. They use the same styling formula. Too.
Mariano’s FU2.0 lapel was designed for Mariano only. It will overpower most others. Much thought also went into his DB button placement. This button placement divides him properly. The proper shoulder width is also very important to keep the eyes at ease.
A roped sleeve head MUST accompany these lapels. And also notice the strong squared off collar points. All of this is taken into account for only this one customer. Not to mention the extremely individual pattern manipulation I’ve done. This is what all Tailors , small town and big town, used to do. These are Mariano’s lapels. He sent me a photo of what he wanted. He was on the money. Boom 💥

[alden]

Frank

+1

You have described the very essence of traditional Benchmade tailoring: crafting unique and individual garments expressly for unique and individual clients. Marianos' lapels are Marianos'. They can't be for anyone else. Mariano's coat is Mariano's. It's his and only his. His DNA is intrinsic to it!

Make it yours! You who are reading this....Make it yours!

Great stuff! Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers