Alden’s 40

[uppercase]

Alden recently posted that he has 40 suits acquired over 40 years.

This little bit of insight is extraordinary to me.

It speaks to me of true, patient connoisseurship.

Now I am postulating here, but consider: carefully selecting the cloth, the design details, the tailor; and ruminating about these choices for a full year. And then imposing on oneself the discipline of making just 1 suit a year. No second chances. No do overs. Until next year.

No wonder Alden appears here so detail oriented, a student of millimeters, insistent on perfection. It is a different mind set altogether. Perhaps I should have learned this and adapted it; and made every shot count.

This level of discipline and focus would have served me well. I have too many clothes, and nothing that I need.

This mindset of having sharply edited wardrobe - a perfected wardrobe -, built slowly and carefully, would have helped me a lot.

How much is enough and what do we truly need in a wardrobe?

Maybe not Alden’s 40 but certainly an edited wardrobe assembled with the discipline and precision and thought that Alden’s method suggests.

[couch]

True. Though in pondering this, don't forget to add to that 40 some number of odd jackets and trousers, outerwear, etc. . . .

[arch]

There were of course posts regarding a minimum wardrobe when I first joined the forum around ten years ago. Although termed minimum, I have to say the quantities were far from it.

From my point of view, as a person who does not have to wear a suit to work, realistically my requirements for tailored clothing would consist of a single suit, a sports coat/blazer and an overcoat paired with some moleskins or other cotton trousers. Perhaps a dinner suit could be added, although I think in the last decade I have only had to wear one once.

I think that is probably the reality for the average professional Brit these days, unless they are in law or banking.

[Frans]

I think that is probably the reality for the average professional Brit these days, unless they are in law or banking.

I had never given that a thought until a lawyer in my home town hold a speech and gave a slide show about his trip to Cuba in 1992 something. Cubans would dress up a lot and change clothes when they came home, he said. A Cuban had asked him: "Why do you in the West dress so sloppily, while you can afford having beautiful clothes made?"

One could of course dress up for work and some occasions in a subtle way. Not for the sake of standing out or seeking attention at all, just because it gives one a kick (just a little one) doing so. Just finding joy in a tiny aesthetic exercise.

And then imposing on oneself the discipline of making just 1 suit a year. No second chances. No do overs. Until next year.

The tailor I use now has imposed that method on me by repeating "don't rush", "think about it", "go through your wardrobe", "let us know when you feel ready" etc. It does give you (and your mind, and your wallet) a kind of peace. And when a commission is coming to its end, that tailor comes up with new ideas and suggestions all by himself

[uppercase]

Arch’s post above is very interesting.

In Britain, he suggests, only those professionsals working in law and banking need to wear suits to work these days; in other professions - no need.
That observation jibes with my general impressions.

Also, the “Minimal Wardrobe” posts (not sure where those are here on LL), are far from minimal says Arch, and he lists what he considers a minimal bespoke wardrobe for his needs, in his profession (am assuming Arch is an architect): 1 suit, 1 blazer, 1 overcoat , 1 (optional) dinner suit.

Makes sense to me.

Other than if you are a bespoke hobbyist, collecting suits and tailors, who practically, really needs more than this??....alright, let’s double it for the hell of it : 2 suits, 2 blazer/sport coats, 2 overcoats....

But that’s enough, isn’t it?

Not bad...paired down, focused, design oriented, cost efficient.
And you can go to town on accessories - ties, knitwear, hats, squares, glasses, shoes and on.... Add a good haircut and shave/trim ....you’re all set.

Arch does not tell us otherwise what his usual day wear to work is but I am projecting maybe something “architectural”, “creative” wear... ?

I suspect though that most here are not minimalists but rather maximalists....

[Jimmy9lives]

I did like 50 suits in a 15month span.

Wish I had more brains than money when I started.

[yialabis]

If I had more experiance when I started to work with a tailor I would have made a lot more blue blazers of various fabrics and weaves , more blue suits , plain or with modarate stripes and greys , maybe one POW ... Plus they would have all been single breasted except from one navy blazer maybe and a cream linen blazer I've posted photos off years ago. Unfotunately I haven't ! instead i've made all kinds of tweeds , fancy (for my older liking)sport jackets , Harris , Olive linens and all sort of other colours and fabrics that most of you can probably imagine ! For the new comers I would say ..KEEP IT SIMPLE ! I'm not Windsor and most probably neither are you ..! Keep it simple and then work with the accesories . ties, scarfes and pocket squares !

Cheers
Vassilis

[davidhuh]

If I had more experiance when I started to work with a tailor I would have made a lot more blue blazers of various fabrics and weaves , more blue suits , plain or with modarate stripes and greys , maybe one POW ... Plus they would have all been single breasted except from one navy blazer maybe and a cream linen blazer I've posted photos off years ago. Unfotunately I haven't ! instead i've made all kinds of tweeds , fancy (for my older liking)sport jackets , Harris , Olive linens and all sort of other colours and fabrics that most of you can probably imagine ! For the new comers I would say ..KEEP IT SIMPLE ! I'm not Windsor and most probably neither are you ..! Keep it simple and then work with the accesories . ties, scarfes and pocket squares !

Cheers
Vassilis

Dear Vassilis,

sound advice, yes - but who can resists LL tweeds? I just could not. But I made things in parallel
Slightly disagree on your point regarding DB/SB. I wear DBs equally often as SBs. What I did a number of times is using the same cloth for both a DB & SB coat, plus 2-3 trousers.
Cheers, David

[Luca]

If I had more experiance when I started to work with a tailor I would have made a lot more blue blazers of various fabrics and weaves , more blue suits , plain or with modarate stripes and greys , maybe one POW ... Plus they would have all been single breasted except from one navy blazer maybe and a cream linen blazer I've posted photos off years ago. Unfotunately I haven't ! instead i've made all kinds of tweeds , fancy (for my older liking)sport jackets , Harris , Olive linens and all sort of other colours and fabrics that most of you can probably imagine ! For the new comers I would say ..KEEP IT SIMPLE ! I'm not Windsor and most probably neither are you ..! Keep it simple and then work with the accesories . ties, scarfes and pocket squares !

Cheers
Vassilis

Interesting post. When I started getting more interested in tailored clothes, my inclination was to think the contrary of what Vassilis writes, above. In other words, that it was boring and not very stylish and not creative to wear "Salaryman" suits with bright ties / shirts.

So, my first non-RTW suit was in a gorgeous PoW flannel. Then a medium-light grey fresco with a pinstripe. Then a dark brown three-piece with a subtle pattern... You get the picture

As time passes, I am leaning rather more towards what Vassilis wrote: more versatile, conservative suits. And, much as I love tweed, I find that there are maybe 2-3 days a year when tweed trousers (or even flannel) work for me. The reality is that I am not a country squire and most of my time is spent at 21-25 degrees centigrade, probably sitting, which makes tweed and flannel trousers very uncomfortable.

[belimad]

Luca,
This is quite interesting. What do you find you lean towards in such climate? What is your “go to short list” of suits/jackets/trousers?

[Screaminmarlon]

I’ve had a similar experience to Yialabis’s, and I agree that with a classic subdued choice you can’t go wrong.
My first bespoke commission was a blue odd coat for spring/summer, the second a gray birdseye suit (in a good weight, the old owner -father of the current owners-of ‘Il vecchio drappiere’ in Milan told me that I’d have to use a shotgun to get rid of the cloth and he was right, I still have it and wear it more than 20 yrs later), the third another blue flannel odd coat with flannel and worsted trousers in gray.
I guess I was more elegant back then when I had only 2/3 suits than I am now that I have more choice.
To this day I happen to periodically gravitate towards gray and blue in solid colours or discrete patterns.
But I love tweeds (very much) as well

[Luca]

Luca,
This is quite interesting. What do you find you lean towards in such climate? What is your “go to short list” of suits/jackets/trousers?

My temperature reference was to the workplace. I just visited some clients last week on the continent and the small meeting rooms packed with people quickly rise to the 25-30 degree centigrade (the 80s, for Americans). Fresco-type is the only bearable fabric at such temperatures, for me. On the rare occasion when I might traipse outdoors in the British climate AND have reason to wear a suit, then my neglected flannel / tweed combos can 'come out of the closet' .

My advice to someone starting out would not be very original, I'm afraid, plain or very subtly-patterned blue or grey suits and grey odd trousers with 'organic colour' odd jackets (i.e. browns, muted greens, etc.). Of course, for elegant dressers that have covered the basics, it IS still really fun to dip one's toes into the waters of more interesting fabrics.

That said, I suppose that once wearing tailored clothes becomes an anachronistic affectation, within the next 20-30 years, at that point the type of fabric won't matter much, form a social / conformism standpoint.

[arch]

Arch’s post above is very interesting.

In Britain, he suggests, only those professionsals working in law and banking need to wear suits to work these days; in other professions - no need.
That observation jibes with my general impressions.

Also, the “Minimal Wardrobe” posts (not sure where those are here on LL), are far from minimal says Arch, and he lists what he considers a minimal bespoke wardrobe for his needs, in his profession (am assuming Arch is an architect): 1 suit, 1 blazer, 1 overcoat , 1 (optional) dinner suit.

Makes sense to me.

Other than if you are a bespoke hobbyist, collecting suits and tailors, who practically, really needs more than this??....alright, let’s double it for the hell of it : 2 suits, 2 blazer/sport coats, 2 overcoats...

I think it is also the case that once a wardrobe of good, quality clothes that fit has been aquired, there comes a point where we just get on with the rest of our lives. Hence this kind of forum will always have an element of the 'Brides' magazine about it, of people passing through on the way to building a wardrobe. Most people of course, will keep a lasting interest in clothing, however mild and continue to dip their toes in from time to time.

[alden]

Other than if you are a bespoke hobbyist, collecting suits and tailors, who practically, really needs more than this??....alright, let’s double it for the hell of it : 2 suits, 2 blazer/sport coats, 2 overcoats....

Really depends on the climate you live in as well as your professional needs. In many parts of N Europe or places like Los Angeles you could get by with a very compact wardrobe. But if you work or spend time in climates like NYC, for example, with its three very distinct and extreme weather cycles, good luck with 2 suits. You'll either die of exposure, pneumonia or heat exhaustion.

I think it is also the case that once a wardrobe of good, quality clothes that fit has been aquired, there comes a point where we just get on with the rest of our lives. Hence this kind of forum will always have an element of the 'Brides' magazine about it, of people passing through on the way to building a wardrobe. Most people of course, will keep a lasting interest in clothing, however mild and continue to dip their toes in from time to time.

I really hope we are not about clothes here. But for the people whose focus is clothing, then the "Brides" comment makes sense.

I think men owe it to themselves, and to those around them, to be and to remain attractive, fit and engaged in the great seduction of life to their very last gasp nanosecond of time.

"Do not go gentle into that good night" of complacency, of letting things go, of expanding into middle aged mediocrity with its robust waistline and velcro closures. Keep the ladies' heads turning and girls blushing til your very last day.

A good diet, regular medical checkups, a steady plan of exercise and a closet full of bespoke clothing that you cannot alter to a larger size are all key elements in this long term plan for style success!

Cheers

[arch]

I really hope we are not about clothes here. But for the people whose focus is clothing, then the "Brides" comment makes sense.

I only meant that once you have a bespoke suit, you are pretty much sorted for most events in life. I was thinking also about all the people who used to be on here that I learnt from and who have since moved on, Nicholas Story, Costi and others