Advice wanted: re-building a wardrobe

[davidhuh]

Dear Mariano,

it is difficult to say something after the Master has given his blessings - but outspoken as I am, I give it a try.

I see a perfect shirt collar, a very nice shoulder and, most important, a happy man. Perfect front quarters - and awesome no-nonsense pocket flaps adding spice to the overall appearance. And I see you wearing braces

Agree with Michael - I want to see a DB! Mistral or Brisa

Thank you for sharing the pictures, this has been very instructive.

Cheers, David

[couch]

Not just a strong shoulder, but a subtle pagoda shoulder. I have always understood that such a complex concave sweep into a smoothly roped sleeve head is one of the most difficult shoulder expressions to execute well. Harder than a simple straight built-up shoulder line on the one hand or a minimally padded/unpadded shoulder on the other. If that's true, it's all the more reason for both Frank and Mariano to be proud.

[alden]

Not just a strong shoulder, but a subtle pagoda shoulder. I have always understood that such a complex concave sweep into a smoothly roped sleeve head is one of the most difficult shoulder expressions to execute well. Harder than a simple straight built-up shoulder line on the one hand or a minimally padded/unpadded shoulder on the other. If that's true, it's all the more reason for both Frank and Mariano to be proud.

Its the quest for the elusive and rare Pagoda shoulder that sent legions of NY forum hounds on crusades to faraway lands, places like Naples. When all the time they had a better, more sober and truly elegant example of it in their own backyards! Accent on the carefully chosen words "better, more sober and truly elegant" as opposed to the gross sartorial buffoonery from Naples normally described as a "Pagoda."

I don't know if a "complex concave sweep into a smoothly roped sleeve" is harder to realize than any other shoulder design. Maybe Frank will tell us. No matter, its looks marvelously well on young Mariano.

Cheers

[old henry]

Very kind words from all of you guys. And thank Mariano for his sense of adventure and faith in me and patience. He is an old school customer. He invented the Skype fitting not me.
This shoulder is my version of Henry Stewart's. also , Mariano had faith and a willingness to learn when it came to the trousers. He needs classic, easy , high rise trousers. From the shoulders to the pant cuff he looks elegant and relaxed. Actually, from the cap to the cuff as I made the cap too.

[couch]

Here are links to Jeffery Diduch's series on making the pagoda shoulder. The complexity of creating the concave line from neck to shoulder point while maintaining the convex fore-and-aft wrap and forward pitch are reflected in each layer of structure and in manipulating the cloth:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/200 ... art-1.html
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/200 ... g-pad.html
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/200 ... ieces.html

[Concordia]

Very nice success. A handful of things I'd want different, even for OP, but that's why bespoke tailors have customers. The total look is excellent.

[old henry]

Thank you Concordia. Very much. ( what's OP ? )

[Concordia]

Original Poster

[belimad]

Very nice success. A handful of things I'd want different, even for OP, but that's why bespoke tailors have customers. The total look is excellent.

Thanks Concordia - it's been a great learning process. I would definitely love to hear your thoughts on what you would do differently!

Thanks,
Mariano

[belimad]

Looks great! Shoulder / neck looks particularly good. Congrats to you and Frank!

BB

Thanks! very happy with the outcome so far

[belimad]

Mariano,

The coat is soldered to your neck and falls effortlessly from there. The perfectly fit strong shoulder was not only made for you, it's made for you! Don't stray from that look.

Coat length is excellent as well. And the lapel width and notch height is spot on. Button point is exemplary and so is the opening of the front quarters...neither too much nor too little.

To imagine that this work was done via skype without a real in house fitting is impressive.

I expect you have learned quite a bit from this and so have we. Thanks for posting these pictures.

Carry on...I want to see a DB. Oh and what's it like to wear comfortable, great looking trousers? Nice.

Cheers

PS Well done Frank! A first try Capolavoro... by Skype nonetheless. Tip of the cap!

Thanks Michael, for the comments, as well as the guidance and suggestions "behind the scenes"
Indeed I am amazed by what a magnificent work Frank has been able to complete via skype. And yes, it's been a fantastic learning process - understanding what's important and what isn't, and how to look at these details and the decisions we've made along the way.
And yes - a nice Summer DB might not be too far away!

[belimad]

Bond, thank you. It was ( is ) a joint effort with an elegant gentleman customer. I set out to make a regal man look regal , elegant and at ease and I am very happy with the result. It was a joint effort. 50/50
F

Thanks Frank - I wish it was 50/50. I just stood there and moved the phone around so you could have a better angle on the neck

[alden]

so you could have a better angle on the neck

Shhhhh! That's where it all happens, the make or the break. The neck. Don't tell anyone.

Well you can tell anyone you please, because no one would believe you anyway. And MTM patterns can never get the neck right or if they do, its by pure luck. Lottery winning type luck.

No to the general public what matters is the story line, the schmaltz, unfastened buttonholes. To us, its what's served on the plate that matters.

Look how other coats gape at the neck. Grand Canyon gapes, not a few millimeters. And the only man or woman on earth who does not see the gape is the wearer. Everyone else, even the wearer's mother, sees it.

Benchmade tailoring is a no-gape world.

Mariano! Welcome!

Cheers

[uppercase]

Saludos Mariano !

I think that the coat Frank Shattuck has designed and made for you is transformative.

It appears to me that the design choices that you and Frank chose were made to both slim and elongate your silhouette.

It worked.
You look 20 lbs. lighter and 6” taller.

And you stand and present with a new swagger.

The squared yet lightly padded shoulder is an inspired choice.

I would call it Milanese in style though with a lighter, more deft touch.

The slightly extended shoulder not only adds breadth to your shoulder but importantly, allows the tailor to then ‘work’ the torso below to delicately subtract cloth and slim: the signature, masculine “V” silhouette which we see. Superb.

Additionally, the “V “ of the suit silhouette is again echoed in the long, deep “V” front of coat and the maximally placed lower buttoning point, all of which again accentuate the slimming effect of Frank’s scissors.

As you do here, I would always wear this coat with a white shirt as it highlights both the elegant tailoring and accentuates the elongating lines you want.
A colored shirt would muddy and detract from the clean lines at chest and collar. A nice bit of linen showing at the sleeve cuff would also be beautiful.

It appears that the coat is 2 button. Again, that choice works to slim you as you don’t need a lot of cloth up in the chest , rolled up high above your heart. Again, another thoughtful, well considered design choice.

Anyway, WTF, there’s really no use deconstructing a suit. It either looks good or it doesn’t. Nobody in the street looking at you calculates these things. And Frank’s first shot suit looks great on you!!

Additional comments , my 2 cents, take them for whatever they are worth to you :

- Frank talks about the need for a classic, easy, high rise trouser for your physique. In some photos your trouser look too blousy, too full here and there, to me. I assume that you have muscular thighs, etc So your tailor needs to work with this. I would suggest that you review what is optimal for your trouser design when you meet with Frank. ...something to consider.

- the cap Frank made for you is a fabulous whimsy and you wear it so well and naturally and Frank knew you would ! This cap and the natural, nonchalant insouciance with which you wear it opens up a whole new aspect of your online persona and so, many new style choices open to you. I would have some more caps made by Frank, and also walk down to Bates and Lock to see what they have as well. Seriously. Do it. It is a new dimension and layer of style for you.

- lose the tan colored shoes with this suit. The color diminishes the serious elegance of your new suit. (I am not familiar with your shoe needs and choices. But just an uninformed suggestion here: I love Clark’s suede chukkas: wide, low, comfortable, crepe sole, practical . Optimally, you need nice shoes to complement your suit, but ofcourse, comfort and your needs rule; but a dark brown Clark’s suede, or other comfortable suede chukkas, may be something for you to consider with your suit; but maybe not ....)

- your cloth choices to date are somber and sober. Perhaps too much so. I don’t know what you need for your business needs. But I think that you could wear really well more adventurous , lighter colored cloths, patterns , etc. etc. I gather you travel to hot humid South America. Linen? Cotton? Plus certainly a Blazer is needed as a priority!! I don’t know. But something for you to think about. You need sports coats as well. Also a safari jacket, and indeed, a haori jacket could be interesting for you.. Alden can advise you on these more arcane subjects....

- oh yes, IMO you will continue to need heavier “drapier “ cloth to keep the lines of your Frank Shattuck suits vertical, strong and straight, not floppy. Along the 1930’s silhouettes. Perhaps a dilemma if you travel hot....but still....
Gabardine? Fresco? High twist? The many practitioners here on LL can advise you on cloth.
I would just generally suggest that your cloth needs to drape and hang “heavy” to maintain your straight, “long line” silhouette which Frank designed.

- apart from walking over to Bates, I would also drop in to Drakes tomorrow. Or E. Marinella over on Maddox Street. And there I would pick up a few quality ties which “pop” and contrast with your otherwise sober clothes and tie choices we have seen to date. . To express aspects of your innate style which the Frank Cap exposed. Orange perhaps ?? I would also pick up 2 or 3 modal/linen Summer weight scarves from Drakes. Perfecto!!

Plus a cool pair of sunglasses.

Seriously... I am not exaggerating : a beautiful tie, scarf, cap/hat, sunglasses are equally important to your bespoke suits. You are moving on from constructing suits to expressing your swagger and Style. A few small thoughful investments are now needed. A suit is foundational. But accessories add a new subtle dimension to your style. And don’t forget a few colorful pocket squares as well. Ha !!

I suppose that you will be off to a Milangos soon!! Tonight ??

You look like a new man. You’re on your way. Seriously. Keep it up!! All the best.
Well done to both you and Frank !!

Saludos.

[alden]

I think that the coat Frank Shattuck has designed and made for you is transformative. 

It is “transformative” in the sense that it is a stark change from the look we have seen previously. The suit, if it has transformed anything, has transformed “our” idea of Mariano assembled pell-mell from a few poor internet photos.

But the suit did not transform Mariano. The suit revealed Mariano. It did not make him a new man, it just revealed what manner of man he truly is. It did not give him new swagger, it merely put into view the innate self confidence of Mariano and “his” swagger.

Clothes cannot transform, but they certainly can reveal and illuminate the essence of a man.

And it can be a magical and wonderful thing, this release of our individual genie otherwise trapped in an impassable bottle of our own making.

Cheers