Retirement?

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
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arch
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Thu Jan 25, 2018 3:55 pm

I thought this topic might make an interesting discussion. When should a historical benchmade garment be retired from use, donated to a museum?
We all know the folklore tales about Great Grandfather's suits.

I recently menioned on another therad that when I started out I collected old Savile Row pieces and had them re-cut for me. I shared a few pics of some of the old Savile Row pieces I have collected over the years with Frank (Old Henry).

Some go as far back as the 1930s. I have worn them and kept them in a decent state of repair. The cloths are going strong. The linings less so of course-most are Alpaca.

A few pieces get more wear than others, some feel more restrictive i.e. more structured. Others more old fashioned (particularly with trousers).
Jackets generally tend to be quite wearable. Many are tweed. One thing I have noticed is that even though we tend to think that people wore dark colours more, the cloths are more distinctive than the ones you see today.

It leaves the question, when should a vintage hand made piece be retired?
couch
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Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:00 pm

I don't understand the question. If the garments are in good condition (or can be refurbished to be so--relining etc.), they fit, and you like them, why would you not continue to wear them?
arch
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Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:31 pm

I just wonder if there is a point at which they should be retired. Certainly modern garments are lighter in weight. Do I like them - Yes. Do they look old fashioned? Perhaps, but only because you generally only see tailored clothing from uninspiring cloths these days. Peraps I should post some pictures?
couch
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Thu Jan 25, 2018 8:58 pm

I would retire them if they were threadbare, could no longer be made to fit by an artisan of comparable skill, or you were sure you no longer liked them or would have occasion to wear them.

If they were classically made in the first place, and you have successfully made them part of your style, I would never retire them out of concern that someone else might consider them out of step with current fashion.

If you have something of truly museum-quality execution or uniqueness (consult costume curators at the V&A, the Met, Phila. Museum of Art, FIT or other university collections) then you might donate.

Otherwise, for still-wearable garments, there are online vendors who specialize in second-hand bespoke, as you probably know. Or send them to Jeffery Diduch to dissect.
davidhuh
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Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:17 pm

couch wrote: Or send them to Jeffery Diduch to dissect.
:lol: :lol:
HristoStefanov
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Thu Feb 01, 2018 5:16 pm

I have one jacket from a former Solito suit which is made by a 200g mohair and which is worn several hundred times. The fabric is already shiny on some places like the lepels/gorge and on the sleeves. There are some small damages in the fabric here and there.
And I am also confused when would be the time to retire the jacket. On the one side I like how it fits. On the other side in a dressier setting I feel untidy wearing it. And on the other side it is too formal for casual wear. So I have to figure out when to retire it.
Mark Seitelman
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Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:09 pm

HristoStefanov wrote:I have one jacket from a former Solito suit which * * * is worn several hundred times. The fabric is already shiny on some places like the lepels/gorge and on the sleeves. There are some small damages in the fabric here and there.
And I am also confused when would be the time to retire the jacket. On the one side I like how it fits. On the other side in a dressier setting I feel untidy wearing it. And on the other side it is too formal for casual wear. So I have to figure out when to retire it.

It's time to retire this coat.

It's only a garment. It's not a piece of real estate.
Mark Seitelman
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Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:16 pm

arch wrote:I thought this topic might make an interesting discussion. When should a historical benchmade garment be retired from use, donated to a museum?

* * *

It leaves the question, when should a vintage hand made piece be retired?

Unless the garment has extraordinary sentimental value ("grandfather was sworn-in as governor in this suit"), when it no longer worn, it is time to get rid of it.

As for museums, they are particular as to what they accept. They aren't thrift shops. It has to be gently used. Also, the garment must have historical value or fill-in an empty slot in the collection.

Good luck.
HristoStefanov
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Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:20 pm

Mark Seitelman wrote: It's time to retire this coat.
It's only a garment. It's not a piece of real estate.
Hello Mark!
Thank you for the advise!

Best regards
Hristo
Frans
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Fri Feb 02, 2018 4:15 pm

Mark Seitelman wrote: "grandfather was sworn-in as governor in this suit"
:lol:
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