Trousers

[alden]

Frank,

Something just occurred to me. Could you, or rather, would you be willing to draft patterns based on supplied measures for LL members, so that they could take the pattern to their trouser makers? Would that work?

Cheers

[old henry]

I absolutely could. In fact I have done so.

[alden]

That would be an amazing help.

What measures do you need and how should they be taken?

[old henry]

I would need photographs. Of front. Side. Back.
Measurements of Waist and Seat.
And measure if Inseam - Out seam of pant in photo.
Desired cuff.
I also do this with coat patterns.
I make coat pattern using The Mitchell Syatem for guys to give to their tailors. But it is just a customized block. The tailor has to know how to tweak it.

[alden]

I think having these patterns would be a great advantage. I have two shirt patterns from my Master shirtmaker that I carry with me when I get shirts. The makers know exactly what I want. It's right there on paper. No words to be confused or misunderstandings possible.

Cheers

[HristoStefanov]

Yes Michael. You can see the center illustration is dressed left. Also in the sean Connery photo just above he is dressed left. A very important thing to know is that trousers that fit nicely in the crotch act like a high armhole. Freedom of movement. If the crotch hangs too low it restricts movement. Like a low armhole. It pulls the whole leg. This is why tailors used to "Dress" your trouser to one side. When you sit or walk your nuts nestle comfortably to one side into the added cloth. And it also keeps the pleats happy. Take a bit off one side and add to the other to pull the crotch of the pant to one Side or the other depending to which side your nuts hang. So that when you move.. the crotch seam will go comfortably up the side of your nuts. Think high armhole. All tailors used to ask,"to which side do you dress,Sir ?"
ps. The draft for the photo above is in The Blue Book.

Very interesting idea. I have never thought about it. This would also elongate the legs.

[old henry]

I never thought of that but yes it would. But make sure your tailor knows how to do it or it will have the opposite effect. Although I'm sure he knows.

[alden]

Although I'm sure he knows.

I am not at all sure of this Frank. Every tailor I have ever known knew to ask which side I dressed and made the appropriate adjustments to the pattern.

But here we have young clients who are stunned by the concept who have clearly never been asked. And they are going to SR tailors. So they are just getting a stock MTM pattern trouser and that's it! And that's exactly what it looks like.

Cheers

[alden]

[old henry]

Happy trouser. And in the above question..I brought you "dress" because of the skinny pants I saw on here. With more roomy pants it is not as necessary. But I still do a bit to the left.

[BESPOKE62]

Although I'm sure he knows.

I am not at all sure of this Frank. Every tailor I have ever known knew to ask which side I dressed and made the appropriate adjustments to the pattern.

But here we have young clients who are stunned by the concept who have clearly never been asked. And they are going to SR tailors. So they are just getting a stock MTM pattern trouser and that's it! And that's exactly what it looks like.

Cheers

I worked with the this old school tailor and he asked all new clients that questions, and was quite dismayed when most had no idea what he was talking about. It is the little things, which may seem insignificant, that make all the differences in the world. At times it seems we are obsessed with the wrong things, it is the minutiae or trifles; that we often overlook, disregard and do believe matter; that make all the differences. As my tailor taught me, there is a quarter of an inch between good and perfection, in other words, the small things matter. So, now we have “high priced” tailors, who do not ask the simple question, “which side do you dress” or don’t know to ask or worst yet, they know but do not care and figure most customer won't know the differences anyway.

[couch]

To be fair, it's also true that some young men prefer briefs to boxers and the question doesn't have the same significance (or familiarity).

[old henry]

Along with briefs they are also wearing fitted (tight) pants. Which is why I brought it up.

[ismailalmurtadza]

Old Henry
Does it work the same with the forward pleats/reverse pleats

Nik

[old henry]

Yes it does.