A&S update

[Manself]

Nearly a decade ago Mr Hitchcock at A&S cut me a wonderful DB suit. I'm considering having some more clothes made there, but I know Mr Hitchcock's no longer wielding the shears. Can members who use A&S tell me if and how things have changed since Mr Hitchcock's retirement?

[Concordia]

So far, so good. Of course, I have an established pattern.
But the younger guys seem to enjoy being able to work a little more shape into coats, and otherwise not be so uptight around customers.

[Manself]

Comparisons are invidious but I'm currently wavering between A&S and Steven Hitchcock. I'd be grateful for any thoughts.

[Concordia]

Ah-- I also do business over on St George St.

Hitchcock Jr borrows much of the A&S aesthetic, but gets a very different look and feel. Snugger chest, and an overall sensation of length and leanness characterize his jackets vs. his father's old shop. More conventional SR appearance, in other words, but with all of the benefits of high armholes, drape on shoulder-blades, etc.
I've done 2-button, 2.5-button, and a 4-button mandarin/forestiere for single-breast, and also one DB.

A&S can be a bit boxier, with a more traditional (or familiar, if you look at Charles' photos) approach to DB. Maybe a little like traditional Brooks Brothers on the 2-button SB, in appearance anyway. 2.5-button is more their core strength. More room on the chest than Hitchcock, and straighter sides down past the waist. I have an older LL Shetland 2.5-button sitting in an Oxford closet that needs a little slimming down for various reasons. We'll see how the new cutters do with that in January.

[hectorm]

I'm currently wavering between A&S and Steven Hitchcock. I'd be grateful for any thoughts.

It would be useful to pay attention to what Steven Hitchcock himself has to say regarding the A&S cut. He has mentioned a few times that he no longer cuts the jacket in the traditional A&S style (Scholte, draping, etc.) in which he was taught initially. This is mainly due to the fact that most of the cloths he has to work with nowadays are much lighter, dryer and unforgiving than before. Also there is in him a slight nod to current fashion (more form-fitting overall) which might be in tone with Savile Row but that the most traditional A&S clientele has been reluctant to go with.
Although it is fair to recognize that A&S has been receiving a strong influx of new younger customers, a big part from Asia, for whom the firm has accepted to cut slimmer suits with less drape. IMO this is the wrong choice for short slender men and I believe they would look much better with the style donned by Windsor, but of course they would have to sacrifice the contemporary look.
If you spoke with Mr. Heywood at A&S front shop he would say that they are willing to work with their clients aesthetics, although he strongly encourages them to have their first suit in the house style.

[Concordia]

20 years ago, A&S had a more emphatic approach to answering that question. If you tried too hard to specify lapel width or anything else that people love to discuss on the fora, you might have been shown the door.