Neapolitan

[alden]

Nik

Yes Rubinacci was on the original Certified Artisans Program of the LL. And I would recommend the firm highly today. As a followup comment to my original post I should say that Rubinacci did not receive one of the ten lengths of cloth. I did not see them as potential candidates to create a bespoke enterprise and they have done very well by themselves.

In fact, after my disastrous series of visits to Naples, I could only recommend Rubinacci (and one other tailor): I remember an LL member, way back when, contacted me saying that he was taking his wife on a holiday to Naples and he asked me where to go. I said there was only one address. When he asked about XYZ, and ABC he got answers that curled his hair and he smartly resisted both temptation and the bad advice of others.

He went onto becoming a sort of Rubinacci poster boy on the forums and probably did more for the brand than all the ads, books and informercials that came out later. He knew how to dress and Mariano lavished his best work on him…wisely.

Note: I have only met Mariano and Luca once. My endorsement has always been a purely spontaneous reflection and not the result of any occult commercial relationship, the kind that has become the norm today on forums and on the blogosphere.

Cheers

[ismailalmurtadza]

Both Alden and Daviduh are sincere in their insight of what Rubinacci could do to their client and i salute them for that.
As for Alden sartoria misadventure i felt sorry.I am very looking forward to learn more about other big bespoke houses in Naples.I hope the book/e-book by Alden will be excess very soon

Nik

[Melcombe]

... and not the result of any occult commercial relationship, the kind that has become the norm today on forums and on the blogosphere.

Michael, I cannot imagine anyone here would have supposed otherwise for an instant !


On that topic however, looking elsewhere, those sorts of connections are a feature of modern life in the blogosphere.

Among the young, to whom the digital environment is the real world, it is taken for granted, factored into opinion-forming and seen as the norm - but in a curious way (to my old-fashioned view) : product placement / commercial connection is fine. Product advocacy is an entirely different matter.

The instinct to give everyone equal voice seems to kick in promptly, as soon as one point is made, its counterpoint is either anticipated or made by others as a matter of course. The phrase "other suppliers are available" seems ubiquitous these days.

So it's OK to be seen in XYZ's suits and for everyone to know that XYZ made them, but as soon as the wearer says "XYZ is great", he / she has to add "so is ABC" etc. or else be seen as less of an arbiter of taste.

In short, I think that 'celebrity endorsement' is now very outdated.

[hectorm]

In short, I think that 'celebrity endorsement' is now very outdated.

I´m not sure what you meant by outdated, but unfortunately, in this era of pop culture, celebrity product endorsements work like a charm. Here at the LL we might not be aware of -or interested in- the different market niches in which the technique is successfully employed, but it still is one of the most reliable and effective marketing strategies. Independent agencies can measure the "with or without" impact of celebrity campaigns, and experts can select the right celebrity for your product. Only a tiny fraction of these campaigns backfire.
Even for bespoke tailoring. The Royal Warrants of Appointment (or the picture of Churchill on the window and the list of clients on your website) are no other than "celebrity endorsements".

[bond_and_beyond]

Is Panico on Alden’s list of the «Infamous 10»?

BB

[alden]

Is Panico on Alden’s list of the «Infamous 10"

BB

My mother taught me, "if you don't have anything good to say, say nothing."

"NOTHING!"



PS: I like the idea of "The Infamous Ten", would make a great movie: there is plenty of suspense, danger, romance, betrayal, Mafia, double crossing, humor, near escapes, steaming sex, ironing sex, needling sex, counterfeit goods, counterfeit tailors, counterfeit clients..... Now I have to get Morricone to do the score...."Once Upon a Time in Naples." It will be a classic!

There are two names in Naples: Rubinacci and Nunzio Pirozzi. Period.

[alden]

Once Upon a Time in Naples: A Comedy in Ten Acts

Preface

Memories of Naples...before it decided it was stylish, it was full of style

Why Naples?

How not to Naples.

Chapters:

Strangers in Pair a Dice

The Mafia Man’s, not Mine

Pay As I Say Not as I Wear, or Else

The Guide and the Moving Price

The Factory Man

For a Father

Brothers of the Cloth

The Conman Coxcomb

A Steamy Romance

Craftsman and Family

Needle Me Will You?

A Story about Sons

The Tide Turns, One Class Act

...stay tuned....the theme song...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fpnEJmpDNE

[hectorm]

There are two names in Naples: Rubinacci and Nunzio Pirozzi. Period.

The placing of Nunzio Pirozzi, who is a tailor, together with Rubinacci, who isn't, makes me ask: who is the tailor behind Rubinacci? A simple calculation leads to the fact that he must be the best in Naples.
PS: I feel a bit disappointed that Genaro Solito didn't make Alden's short list. Just a bit. Because I gather there are many considerations and subplots in Once a time in Naples and because I am really satisfied with the relationship and the value of his work.

[alden]

Hectorm,

Once Upon a Time in Naples is a comedy. It is not a piece of investigative journalism, though such a piece is clearly merited. And it is not another guide book. As such no names will be mentioned. I will leave it up to the reader to decipher identities if they choose to but that exercise is not something I would encourage.

When I think back on my Neapolitan misadventures I burst out laughing and I hope the reader will do so as well. And in telling my story about what style is not, I may in a backhanded way add my views on the subject of true style to the effluent published over the last decade. But that is not my purpose. My purpose is fun.

I am writing the book so that someone who has never visited a tailor, clicked on a style blogger, or even worn a suit will pick the book up and have mirth and relaxation from the sights and sounds of the barrel of monkeys at work there.

I have never tried, by word or deed in my short life, to impress anyone. But I have always tried, though not always with success, and many of you have had to suffer me, to conjure up a smile. Because one smile is worth a hundred thousand pats on the back.

As far as specific tailors names, its really hard to say much that is comprehensive which is why I consider tailor reviews with great disdain especially when dollars or pounds are exchanged. Someone could have a wonderful result and experience with just about anyone, and that should be a pleasing thought.

Cheers

[Screaminmarlon]

Someone could have a wonderful result and experience with just about anyone, and that should be a pleasing thought.

+1

[andreyb]

There is an article on Ambrosi published on "Permanent Style"; the article itself is quite bland, but the comments section... oh my!

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/09/ ... aples.html

Search for "500euros" comment (unfortunately, it's impossible to post a link to a specific comment).

Free garments / discounts is one thing; but getting paid for a coverage (whatever excuses are used...) is a new low. Really. Poor Simon. Poor readers.

Andrey

[davidhuh]

Free garments / discounts is one thing; but getting paid for a coverage (whatever excuses are used...) is a new low. Really. Poor Simon. Poor readers.

Andrey

Dear Andrey,

at least he is transparent about it, which makes it perfectly acceptable to me. What about all those you don't know? This is where the real problem is.

Cheers, David

[DavidS]

...

[aston]

DavidS

Fully agree, particularly as up until now he has been at pains to point out that he never accepts freebies of any kind to avoid any claim of lack of impartiality.

In more recent posts, he now admits to receiving discounts but says that they do not,in any way influence his reporting................

[davidhuh]

Gentlemen,

my brain may getting a bit loose, but I think to remember that he admitted this years ago. He could have done it in a better way, meaning somewhere on his blog where it remains more visible. So people keep banging him in the Q & A section... and they will continue until he gets it.

Where I don't follow you: the standards you seem to follow would kill almost everything out there in the blogosphere & instagram world and in "special interest print press" - meaning fashion, architecture, furniture, wine, cooking titles, whatever. Most print press in no better - those paying ads get better & more coverage. It may generally help to keep a healthy dose of scepticism towards anything out there.

Little is new on the planet. How did Churchill put it? "I only believe in statistics that I doctored myself"

Cheers, David