On online reviews of artisans

[andreyb]

To respond on some points raised above.

Permanent Style as a source of entertainment? Sure! -- for me as well. I find text to be mostly boring, though, while photos are usually very well done.

Providing added exposure to small artisans? Of course! -- and this is a good contribution to a good cause. Simon is far from alone doing this, though, and definitely not the one to be admired and emulated.

"The world leader on bespoke" and "single-handedly bringing attention to artisans across europe"?! Boys, give me a break! You really buy this...?

Here is another one for you: guess who is "the savior of Savile Row"? (yes, you read it right!)

Andrey

P.S.: Here is an example of *really* quality journalism on bespoke tailoring: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/ ... ailor.html. Another is a recent BBC's documentary "Handmade by Royal Appointment". Both do simply superb job... worthy to be envied, indeed.

[hectorm]

Now, what do you think about the bespoke tailors going into retail??
I think that it's a great move - many have already done so : A&S, Huntsman, …I don't know who else.
RTW & MTM have a lot going for them when designed and commissioned by a classically trained bespoke tailor.

It´s difficult to define what "success" means when retail and RTW/MTM is added to a house that has traditionally been bespoke only. Maybe it could mean making a profit while maintaining their level of excellence.
Although I´m not a fan of the A&S style, I have to recognize that in the corporate front they have been doing very well lately going retail without compromising the quality of their output. It seems smart that they have drawn the line at not selling RTW (nor MTM) jackets, simply because they know that they cannot provide the A&S expected standard (and also because they sense that their original clients and many of their potential new ones could resent that move). So haberdashery yes (trousers, sweaters, shirts, and the usual very nice A&S neckties and pocketquares) but no jackets.
Huntsman has been selling RTW jackets for a while. I have checked their design/quality and they are beautiful and of a very good craftmanship. Fit is another story, and I couldn´t tell. But for them selling RTW jackets is probably a symptom of decadence and not its cause.
Cundey´s venture in the retail business with Henry Poole stores in China and Japan seems to have been successful in the above-mentioned terms, although they also differentiated their products with a lesser labeling (Imperial Eagle instead of Kings Arms). Now Richard Anderson is offering RTW. And also MTM suits and jackets which are less expensive and with final delivery within just 4 weeks. It may serve as a new client´s introduction. I have never recoiled from the idea of MTM garments, but I find that once you have gone the full bespoke route with an specific tailor, the idea of commissioning a lesser suit from the same person s not attractive (I might discover I was overpaying all these years )

[Concordia]

Whispers from just outside the inner circle suggest that A&S is now running their bespoke operation to support the RTW haberdashery.

[rjman]

There's always those of us who write based on personal experience accrued over decades of paying custom and discussion with makers, along with critical thought, but I understand some of us are hard to read.

To expand, many of us want to read forums and bloggers because of the relative lack elsewhere of information and pictures of the things we profess to love - craft, artisanry, customization, handwork, sensuous designs, fabrics and materials, and detailing. In truth, most of it is pornography - certainly in the Umberto Eco definition of the term. Certain of the most successful classic menswear bloggers join together buzzwords as if they were playing Mad Libs. They join those buzzwords with a syntax of self-congratulation, for the reader to be reassured of his gentlemanliness, of the permanence of his dressing style, of the certainty of his taste, of the sophistication of his vocabulary. Lastly they add beautiful and provocative pictures.

Permanent Style is actually usually above that. However much one may snark at him, Crompton is a good writer with insights and, if given permission, intelligent observations. He increasingly has commercial entanglements and certain folks in the industry assert that he may not disclose the full breadth of them. However, he can write pieces like post-mortem interviews of some of the best defunct makers, which would have no commercial benefit to him, that are fantastic.

That being said, there's value to Henry Miller or DH Lawrence as well as to the Penthouse Letters that are most blogs on the topic of menswear.

[voxsartoria]

I stay below the fray by nearly exclusive focus on the dead and the headless, and the occasional side-eye look at others who...quite possibly...are no more ridiculous than am I.

[whyescalar]

Crompton is a good writer, and I enjoy his writing about tailors beyond the usual suspects, much like Mr. Lopez-Galicho Gonzalez or our Mr. Alden does.

[old henry]

Yes, it's hard to find.