vents or not

[snapper]

Gentlemen,
I know it is purely a personal choice but do you have your double breasted jackets made with two side vents or completely ventless? The former gives easier access to trouser pockets but the latter presents a "cleaner" silhouette. Are there any movement restrictions, such as when sitting, in a ventless coat? To my mind ventless appears to show a more vintage style as worn in the thirties and forties. Your thoughts would be much appreciated.

Regards,
Snapper

[alden]

VENTS please

[Concordia]

I have a DB suit with no vents that works quite well, as does a DB DJ.

Vents are more practical for day-to-day wear, but if it is well cut by someone who likes to do that, there should be no real problem. I've found it comfortable when standing or sitting.

[hectorm]

do you have your double breasted jackets made with two side vents or completely ventless?

I have not commissioned jackets without vents for more than 15 years now.
However, I still have a few "older" DB jackets I instructed to be ventless because at the moment I thought they would be a tad more formal that way and in line with the style and purpose of the garment.
My DB DJ is ventless and I wouldn´t want to change that. As for my other DB ventless suits, although they are comfortable while sitting, I confess I sometimes miss an easier access to the trouser pockets and if I were to order them today, I would ask for side vents.

[andy57]

Yes, unless it is a dinner jacket, I would not commission a double-breasted jacket without side vents.

[Concordia]

For me it would still have to be a spiffy rig that one might wear to a non-black-tie but nice event. It is still possible, though. Almost-black herringbone, no pocket flaps-- nicely formal.

Interestingly enough, Steven Hitchcock refused to do ventless on a SB DJ. I don't know if he had missed that part of the instructions and was just defending himself, or if his jackets are actually long enough vs. A&S or some other houses that it would have been a real mess.

[Milo]

My DJ (in black Brisa BTW) is double-breasted and has two vent's as do my few ordinary DB jackets. From a stylistic point of view, I now think that ventless in the DJ would have been better, but at the time I expected to dance a lot in it so I wanted that extra freedom of movement. Seeing how it sits in the cupboard most of the time, either-or sadly makes little difference.

[rodes]

You cannot go wrong either way, but for me it would be no vents for the DB. This coat is usually cut closer to the body and perhaps a half inch shorter, so I like the simpler line of no vents. I wear a suit every week day and most of my winter ones are DB. Most of my non-winter suits and all of my sport coats are SB and for these I always go for side vents. Our respected style icons are usually so presented in films of the 30's and 40's and often times even SB coats have no vents.

[Leonard Logsdail]

I have a standard reply to anyone who asks me what vent style they should have, single, double or none.

"Gentleman have 2 vents - but you can have what you want!"

Always with a smile