Shawl collar dinner suit - self lapel?

[Noble Savage]

Putting your best face forward.

[OxfordDon]

Side question here : regarding the shirt studs… are black studs or plain mother pearl buttons the more conservative choice?
TIA

Technically speaking MoP is more formal, but they are much more subtle in practice. Black will appear more formal/conservative due to the strong contrast with the white shirt

[lxlloyd]

Taroni (Italian Silk Mill, represented by Misan in UK) does a lovely Wool and Silk (17055) that is lovely on both the self (less lustre than silk satin, still a satin finish weave, slightly more character) and the revers. (Slightly textured but not as much as a shantung). It might work well for you. They do have stock-supported ordering so if your tailor does not wish to order reams of it he should be able to order just enough for your lapels.

[alden]

LX

How are you doing? Any new creations for us to see?

Thanks for posting this information. Seems like an interesting company.

Cheers

[lordsuperb]

What's the protocol on lapel buttonholes for shawl tuxedo's?

[hectorm]

On shawl lapels, Windsor had one on each side, Cary Grant and l´avvocato one on the left, and most gentlemen I know, none, because that´s what they got from the rack, or if they had a choice, to keep things as simple as possible. or because they are afraid of interrupting the smooth surface and curved lines up front
I got my inspiration for my shawl collar DB DJ from Agnelli´s and have one buttonhole on the left, which doesn´t get much use but would allow me to wear a boutonniere without having it pinned.

[lordsuperb]

I still can't get over this picture of Sir Duke for inspiration.

[davidhuh]

Dear Lordsuperb,

I can assure you that there is nothing wrong with having no button hole on a shawl collar. I didn't do it and never missed it. Just put on a big smile when wearing your dinner coat. The ladies will forgive you everything

Cheers, David

[lxlloyd]

LX

How are you doing? Any new creations for us to see?

Thanks for posting this information. Seems like an interesting company.

Cheers

I did some extra training on the Savile Row bespoke scheme to refine some basic skills, (buttonholes etc.)

Then I was sourcing the fabrics/helping to manage the Atelier at Catherine Walker in Chelsea, which is women's bespoke (mainly occasion wear such as Mother of Bride/groom but also a lucky few's wardrobe staples). A good few of the tailors/seamstresses have been there for several decades, definitely good knowledge to soak up...

Now I'm looking for positions whilst I help a friend to set up a brand, she also has a history working in bespoke and we want to bring that quality back into womenswear. Unfortunately that won't pay the rent just yet!

I can't offer much help on the wools sourcing front (since we were using similar to any good tailor) but any silks/more unusual queries I might be of use!