Patch pockets

[OxfordDon]

Slightly off topic, but I second Melcombe on the Dugdale White Rose Saxony tweed. The White Rose Sporting is also good if you are after heavier stuff.

[hectorm]

Hectorm, please correct me if I am using the wrong word. I always thought that self-lining means using the same fabric of the jacket for the lining. In the case of my blazer, this is also a half/quarter-lining: the only lining goes over the facings (covering all the full canvas), armpit area and shoulders.

Federico,
self-lined means exactly that and you are using it correctly.
I was really surprised by the fact that you had self-lined a summer jacket with a fabric that was 475 grams/meter. That makes almost a kilo cloth on your shoulders.
Now I see by your explanation that the jacket is only quarter-lined, which makes much more sense.

[davidhuh]

I was really surprised by the fact that you had self-lined a summer jacket with a fabric that was 475 grams/meter. That makes almost a kilo cloth on your shoulders.
Now I see by your explanation that the jacket is only quarter-lined, which makes much more sense.

Gentlemen,

here is another example of "heavy" summer cloth

Cheers, David

[Melcombe]

Any news on your project, Melcombe?

Today was a good day - any day I get the chance to call into my tailor's workshop is a good day naturally. And considering the other wearisome things that I had to do today, tailoring was a welcome distraction.

I had gone with the express intention of ordering my S/B, 2B, single vent, (3) patch-pocket blazer, taking my uncles old coat for example. Mr P pointed out that the old cloth in uncles coat was probably more than 50 years old (bearing up well, I thought...) and it was tricky to get anything close, it being exceptionally heavy. We settled on Dugdales 9428 navy hopsack. I also bumped into the friend who had introduced me to Mr P some years ago, and who was there for a fitting. He was enthusiastic about my project - as I was about his, from which I pinched the idea of an ivory lining.

I'm still unsettled on buttons (plenty of time to choose yet). Benson & Clegg's plain silver buttons look good, but I'm also taken by the idea of Mother of Pearl or white/cream horn, possibly?

Snag is that the maestro is going home to Italy for 8 weeks from mid July, so this project may well be making an autumn debut. I just knew I should have gone to see him last month...

[Melcombe]

The finished article collected last week:




Firstly, apologies for the poor photography.

The item is a delight to wear. The hopsack is extremely comfortable - the foundations are lighter than usual and a little less structured than previously. I think the chrome buttons were the right choice (always grateful for an excuse to call into Benson & Cleggs..) and the ivory lining is splendid.

I've noticed that the patch pockets are slightly 'organic' in form and are not perfect rectangles but they have been cut to appear perfectly perpendicular when worn.

Im a convert to PP's now - Ive been thinking about a dogtooth black / cream (if I can find the right cloth) jacket / change-coat. I suspect PP's might suit that.

I really have learnt a lesson from the last few pieces : basically, Ive stopped being overly prescriptive in my discussions with my tailor, I shall now leave a lot of the details to him since I know he will do whatever his experience tells him will look best rather than insist on trying to second-guess him. Its a tricky balance; I know a lot of folk are drawn to bespoke so that they can get exactly what they want. I suppose Im drawn because I can get decide on things jointly with an expert - it's an advantage however having the confidence that he would never suggest something purely for his own advantage - maybe its taken a while to get to this point.

[C.Lee]

Congratulations on the finished article. There is a fantastic balance between coat and wearer. Which brings us to this gem:

..Ive stopped being overly prescriptive in my discussions with my tailor, I shall now leave a lot of the details to him since I know he will do whatever his experience tells him will look best rather than insist on trying to second-guess him...

Sometimes we unknowingly hold our tailors back by being overly prescriptive. They need room to breathe, and have the experience to stand on their own. Trust your tailor to make full use of his/her skill set.


Regards.