Waistcoats. The Long View.

[Melcombe]

I suspect Im subconsciously looking to be talked out of this idea...

But :

In the modern style, Im spending much more of my time working remotely - and this suits me very well. No tiresome commute, fewer distractions of the office environment ( albeit - more daytime TV and mid morning peeps at LL).

This means that I don't have to wear a suit nearly so much, but more importantly I don't have the wear the public-transport-proof-suit-cum-overall that I used to buy regularly, and trash annually, from the UKs most beloved clothing store, M&S.

So, I sit around (mainly sit) and bash away at a keyboard wearing anything from jim-jams to my W Bill tweed. And in colder weather, a pullover. I can't help but notice that Im slipping into a more casual dress mode generally, but I cannot abide the idea of ending up looking like a keyboard-toting flood victim.

Standards, gentlemen, must be maintained. This has prompted me to consider something smarter and more durable than a wooly-pully, that will go with a range of trousers - that can cope with a tie (or not), or a cravat, even.

Behold ! The is the kind of thing I have in mind :



Yup, it's a waistcoat. Or, since this one's actually an 18th C example : Verily, 'tis a waistcoat.

BUT - it's a long waistcoat. With proper pockets. But it isn't a body warmer nor a fly-fishing waistcoat. The only commercially available things that come close, to my mind, are

or

But somehow, they are a bit workaday. I just thought something with a plain-ish tweed front, with some substance, and flannel (cupro-lined?) back would be a bit more stylish really - with flapped side pockets and a welted (possibly 2?) chest pocket(s).

Has anyone had anything similar made up?

I think I need to do a few drawings first.

As ever, all advice gratefully received, including "don't bother".

[Costi]

As you sit a lot, the pictured length might prove cumbersome: either you go short (like a normal waistcoat - and then you can even keep it buttoned), or very long (a robe de chambre a la Balzac).


(http://www.musee-rodin.fr/en/collection ... ssing-gown)


If you prefer a waistcoat for the added freedom of movement of your arms (typing position), you could have a sleeveless normal coat made, just like a friend of mine who plays the flute wearing it.

[AndyM]

Have you considered an indian nehru waistcoat in khadi wool? They are designed to be worn as an outer garment so are wool front and back.

[Mark Seitelman]

I say go for it!

Be aware that you are chancing disappointment if it doesn't look right. But, heck, that is the gamble with every custom/bespoke garment.

You will have to bring photos and be able to collaborate with your cutter.

You probably should go to a tailor who does hunting and fishing clothes since the pockets are necessary and not mere ornament.

Good luck.

[Frederic Leighton]

Go for a nice smoking jacket with interesting details. Wear it for 18 hours a day for one week and you will forget it has sleeves. Then you will feel cosy and elegant

The long waistcoat reminded me of this:

[Frederic Leighton]

Melcombe, how's the decision-making progressing?
Bow-tie and aviator collar optional.

[Mark Seitelman]

Melcombe, how's the decision-making progressing?
Bow-tie and aviator collar optional.

The smoking jacket is a little too elegant and formal for an everyday workday garment to wear while working in a home office and when greeting the mailman, etc.

Melcombe, I would go with a vest of your own design. Keep in mind that a long vest will not fit like a regular suit vest which is shorter and more tapered. A long vest will have to be looser to allow for the width of your hip and seat.

Good luck.

[Melcombe]

Melcombe, how's the decision-making progressing?

Ha!

Some excellent contributions there - many thanks indeed. (Even Mick Jagger's, er, ensemble...)

Now, I have found some green herringbone tweed - I think.

In addition, and what will be a novel departure for me, I have been looking for an excuse to try a lady tailor (from E Europe) who has just set up shop locally. I think I shall get the thing made up by her.

Struggling with sketches at the moment - the lady's english is basic so I think a picture might paint a thousand words - in translation at least.

[Frederic Leighton]

The smoking jacket is a little too elegant and formal for an everyday workday garment to wear while working in a home office and when greeting the mailman, etc.

I'm always in smoking jacket* when I open the door to the postman. That's what I wear at home. I don't find it inappropriate nor excessive. It's home - you set rules and standards For me it's just something very cosy to wear whatever I'm doing, even the dishes or sitting on the floor to meditate.

*Nothing fancy. It's not even bespoke.

[Penfold]

I've had a similar garment to what the OP describes in my mind for quite a while now, but I'm always too scared to make the leap. Like him I'd like to have something which is both practical (pockets for change, phones etc), stylish, allows me to wear interesting cloth (tweed, flannel, definitely something with plenty of pattern, texture and informality) but which isn't as "much" as a full-blown jacket.

It comes down to the bastard hybrid of a jerkin, a gilet and a waistcoat.

The Nehru waistcoat is a close approximation, as shown here

http://www.sirplus.co.uk/products/mens- ... s,75167483

But I would want angled pockets (jetted or patch, possibly bellows) and I think you would have to go bespoke to get the correct fit over the shoulders and the right length. If the shoulders extend too far they'll look like an Elizabethan jerkin but too small will make the garment look a bit weedy. The length, and the way in which the bottom is finished, will be crucial as well. You'd want it to cover the waistband of the trousers with a little to spare but not look too long or unwieldly at the sides or rear. Some kind of side vent/gusset is required to allow the thing to articulate around your body. Sporting details are quite good and maybe some kind of tab fastening could project forward and button across either side (two vertical buttons per side I think)

Regent Tailoring in Salisbury used to have a very similar sort of thing on their website in tweed - heavily discounted and presumably not selling very well. They've gone back to a kind of shooting waistcoat but I think you want a higher finish, no V-shape and almost a Mandarin or Nehru style collar that could frame the face and shirt collar but not dominate.

http://www.regenttailoring.co.uk/regent ... PUrH45W-iw

[Penfold]

Also on the inspiration pinboard

This tweed gilet, showing how a good fit over the shoulders will continue the line of fit up from the waist and chest, elongating the torso and reducing the widening/framing effect of a jacket with sleeves, lapels etc. Swelled edges and the faint curves at the bottom hem look very good.

http://www.ahume.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID ... mageAnchor

And the "military waistcoat" from Sutlers - too many pockets and buttons I feel. Straight pockets can look a little too formal perhaps?

http://www.sutlers.co.uk/acatalog/Waistcoats.html

[Man at C&A]

Has Sir seen the rtw Tweed Gilet's at OliverBrown.org.uk

They seem to be close to the specification

[Melcombe]

^^^

Now they ARE nice.

Actually, what had drawn my attention was this

British WWII 1940 leather jerkin, remake. This jerkin is exact in every detail; the leather is heavy-duty but supple, the quality of manufacture is second to none, the wool lining is as per the original and it is made up following the pattern that was made during the war. A truly superb remake that collectors and enthusiasts alike will appreciate. The label is white cotton as per the original.

[T.K.]

One other RTW option for a short vest:

http://www.studiodonegal.ie/shop/info_2160.html

I have no experience with this maker myself and the armhole seems overly large, but they do seem very 'practical'.

[pck1]

I like the nehru waistcoat idea alot..