The Minimum Wardrobe reposted

[Frederic Leighton]

My working wardrobe has changed profoundly over the 12 years of my career. [...] I have a penchant for vintage, and for some reason find vintage smoking jackets, of which I have five, to be my most prized, if inexplicable even to me, possessions.

I'm glad you're sharing your experience here, Tim. Thank you! And I know what you mean when you mention vintage smoking jackets. I have two English 3-piece dinner suits that get very little wear, and yet give me loads of happiness every time I take them out of the wardrobe just to remind myself what a suit should look like. My favorite is from the '20s-'30s while the other is a masterwork dated 1947. This is at least 4 sizes too big for me; I guess buying it wasn't very essential of me..

Given the diversity of requirements and lack of uniformity in modern dress, even within a country, city or profession, I suppose everyone’s “necessary” or “minimum” wardrobe will be different (never mind the “ideal” one).

Thank you for putting it in such nice words, Luca, and for sharing your thoughts. Although you forgot to share your ideal minimum wardrobe - the numbers, please

[Luca]

Luca...you forgot to share your ideal minimum wardrobe - the numbers, please

I’ve not thought much in terms of a “minimum”, where classic menswear is involved but at a push I could be comfortable with five good “suits” for each season/weight (so, 2 sets, in London) where by “suit” I mean either an actual suit with two pairs of trousers or an odd jacket with a couple of appropriate odd trousers. That adds up to 10 jackets and 20 trousers. I think that 15 shirts and a dozen ties would more than suffice and one could dress actually quite well with that and 6-8 pairs of shoes. I’ve never felt the need for more than a couple of overcoats and one raincoat. I’ve only started regularly wearing a hat in my late 40s (so, very recently).

Where I have tried in recent years to really pare down the selection is in summer vacation / sports clothes. I feel it has worked very well, for me. The minimalism is not so much numerical (though that too) but in terms of colours and combinations. It is often in casual / sporty clothes that people let themselves run riot with colour / patterns / etc. A couple of years ago I decided to just go with solid white, navy blue and beige/brown (plus a little grey) for anything including chinos, polo/casual shirts, jumpers and shorts. I’ve found it very liberating.

I've also pared down my shirts where by now they are virtually all white, light blue, light blue with a white contrast collar or white-blue stripe. Probably boring or limiting to some but crisp and simple and never badly matched to me.

[gegarrenton]

3-5 suits total, 8 shirts, 2 pairs of shoes. half a dozen ties and some socks and underwear and I'm covered.

[Frederic Leighton]

Even in the City of London, outside a minority of specific companies/jobs, there is a great variety of dress.

I was asking a new acquaintance about his first three days in London. A mechanic engineer in his mid 20s fresh from Munich, now he works in Canary Wharf for a big electronic company. Office job. He's been wearing a light-weight navy suit (his only suit) without neck-tie, but he's still overdressed. "You don't need a suit. Just a good pair of trousers and a good pair of shoes."

[YoungLawyer]

I'd say, for a minimum wardrobe for an office job and life in London, that my tailored wardrobe of 2 three-piece s/b worsted suits (grey and blue), 1 flannel d/b suit (grey) (each suit with spare trousers), 1 diner suit, 1 morning coat and trousers, 2 evening coats, 1 blazer, 2 tweed jackets, a couple of odd trousers, and 1 city overcoat, fully covers every possible occasion. I have to wear a suit every day at work, or I'd be under-dressed. I only replace things as they wear out, and I don't see the need to go beyond this 'minimum wardrobe' anytime soon. This seems very much less than others on the forum, but I've never seen the need for more (although a tweed suit would be an enjoyable luxury). Things don't wear out all that quickly with a proper rotation.

[Edward Bainbridge]

By evening coat you mean dress coat/"tails", or an overcoat? If the former, just out of curiosity, may I ask why you need two?

[Concordia]

I'd say, for a minimum wardrobe for an office job and life in London, that my tailored wardrobe of 2 three-piece s/b worsted suits (grey and blue), 1 flannel d/b suit (grey) (each suit with spare trousers), 1 diner suit, 1 morning coat and trousers, 2 evening coats, 1 blazer, 2 tweed jackets, a couple of odd trousers, and 1 city overcoat, fully covers every possible occasion. I have to wear a suit every day at work, or I'd be under-dressed. I only replace things as they wear out, and I don't see the need to go beyond this 'minimum wardrobe' anytime soon. This seems very much less than others on the forum, but I've never seen the need for more (although a tweed suit would be an enjoyable luxury). Things don't wear out all that quickly with a proper rotation.

That covers you for day and evening. The only thing that would require more is a less-temperate climate, where replicating the office garb in summer and winter (or 3-season) fabric would be necessary.
Another option to increase versatility would be a 6-piece suit--- SB, DB, vest, 3 trousers.

[ay329]

By evening coat you mean dress coat/"tails", or an overcoat? If the former, just out of curiosity, may I ask why you need two?

If one already has a peak lapel tailcoat in midnight...then the natural progression would be to commission a shawl collar tailcoat in black:
http://blog.blacktieguide.com/2012/07/2 ... -tailcoat/

[Frederic Leighton]

Well-balanced wardrobe, France, 1957.

CITY - 5 suits (3 winter, 2 summer).

* 3pc suit, SB3b, worsted, small b/w houndstooth, SB waistcoat.
* 3pc suit, SB2b, worsted, bronze green, DB waistcoat.
* 3pc suit, DB6x2, worsted, navy blue.
* 2pc suit, SB3B, silk, small dots, for summer and winter.
* 2pc suit, 4x2, alpaca, grey-blue, for summer.

EVENING - 1 DJ, 1 DJ light colour, 1 tailcoat.

* DJ, SB1B, midnight blue, silk revers of the same colour, silk waistcoat.
* DJ, DB4x1, tropical, light colour, revers of the same colour, no waistcoat, for summer.
* tailcoat, midnight blue; with two white waistcoats.

SPORT. 1 suit, 3 jackets, 3 trousers.

* 2pc suit, SB3B, cheviot, box check, with matching plus-twos/fours.
* blazer, navy blue, DB4x2, MoP buttons.
* sport jacket, SB2B, Harris Tweed gunclub.
* leather jacket, hidden buttons, patch pockets.
* odd trousers, dark grey serge, cuffed bottoms.
* odd trousers, tan whipcord, cuffed bottoms.
* odd trousers, large-wale corduroy, flat bottoms, leather trim pockets.

[pemazel]

Gentlemen,

What about your shoes? The seven pairs mentioned by mr Alden is imho an absolute minimum.

Paul

[rodes]

The minimum depends much on the climate in which you live. For instance the mid-Atlantic can easily see temperature swings of 100 degrees F. For the gentleman who must wear a suit every day of the week, that means 5 suits for summer and 5 for non-summer (or 5 for winter and 5 for non-winter). This would be adequate at best for it leaves one wearing 13-14 ounce worsted in -10 degree temps (or 90 degrees if one goes heavy). Fifteen suits is optimal. Perhaps 3 fresco, 4 mid-weight, 3 heavy but somehow this seems unsatisfying.

[chapman]

I do agree on the grey pants as I have a considerable amount of varying shades of grey pants as much as I have blue and white shirts.