Dr T wrote:If we take the Saville Row area - how much of the Bespoke suit or shirt is make on the tailors premises? You would assume all as its bespoke - but is it. When selecting a tailor its always a good idea to find out exactly what they do and whats done by other companies -the results are interesting -
Whats your experience.
Chittleborough & Morgan seem to do very much on the premises. Mr. Morgan speaks of "our team" and coordinates everything with his people. When I had my very first fittings, he asked me to come back later the same day or the next day for an additional fitting. In the meantime "the team" had altered some details on both jacket, vest and trousers. This happened at the first and second fitting, but not at the third.
As to shirts in London, only Sean O'Flynn makes them on his premises in Sackville Street while Mr. Lachter uses outworkers, a tailor told me.
pur_sang wrote:Makes my decision much easier now. Guess I won't be revisiting them anytime soon.
My advice would be that you insist on getting a clean back of your coat. You are the customer and in bespoke it's essential to have a good relationship with your tailor(s). If you tell them in a friendly but very explicit way that you are not satisfied, it means you'll give them a chance to do something about it.
I had a similar problem with my former tailoring house. The bottom rear of my very first jacket did not look flattering. Every time I visited them afterwards, I mentioned this problem. They said it was due to the lightweight cloth. Finally they found out that the lining was too short. It had been pulling the rear of the jacket up, causing an unflattering dent in the vent. The problem was fixed in no time, but it had taken more than a year for them to find out…