Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

[Minh]

For your viewing pleasure, Esquire April 1936:

A single-breasted, three-piece, peak lapel suit in grey sharkskin with a blue stripe. Shirt is a blue broadcloth in a Glen Urquhart pattern. The trouser bottoms are cut full at 20 inches.





Anthony Eden helped to make the single-breasted peak lapel suit famous in the 30s, along with his eponymous hat:



The 4X1 double-breasted, three-piece suit in a grey blue flannel "cable stripe." A touch from the Duke of Windsor is the Guard's tie and the suede shoes.





The covert coat with a navy worsted suit and Spitalsfield tie:





A brown herringbone cheviot suit with red, green, and yellow stripes. Worn with a tan checked flannel shirt, foulard pocket square, and monk strap shoes.





A lovat green cheviot suit. The pattern is a Glen Urquhart check with a red overplaid.





What to wear in April showers. A lovat Glen Urquhart shetland suit. A gaberdine raincoat with a cheviot suit and tweed cap. A covert coat:





In the 30s, sport was a reason to dress more casually but not less elegantly. A lovat shetland sportscoat worn with a beautiful scarf:





Fishing gear:





Knox hats:



Summer in the city. White bucks in a perforated cap-toe and wingtip oxford. Note the 7 eyelet design:



Spring is wedding season, with button boots, top hat, and ascot tie:





Daytime formal wear. The younger man is wearing a 4X1 double-breasted worsted jacket and Glen Urquhart cheviot trousers. The older gentleman has a peak lapel morning coat, double-breasted linen waistcoat, and striped worsted trousers.





Oxford grey worsted jacket, matching waistcoat, Glen Urquhart plaid trousers with a blue overcheck:

[alden]

Minh

Thanks again!

This is the LLTW09 tweed we made a few years ago and is up for a reissue now. It is a beautiful tweed suiting.



Cheers

[davidhuh]

For your viewing pleasure, Esquire April 1936:

A single-breasted, three-piece, peak lapel suit in grey sharkskin with a blue stripe. Shirt is a blue broadcloth in a Glen Urquhart pattern. The trouser bottoms are cut full at 20 inches.

Dear Minh,

many thanks, what a great present for a dull Saturday This grey sharkskin would be a great project for the LL CC…

Cheers, David

[Frederic Leighton]

This grey sharkskin would be a great project for the LL CC…

Agree!

[angelo]

Dear Minh,
this lovat green cheviot three button suit really strikes me.It is quite impossible today to obtain from a taylor such an harmonious coat with a so high armhole associated to a proper underarm fullness.The replacement of the waistcoat by a sleeveless pullover is another suggestion coming from the repertoire of the Duke of Windsor.
Thanks again,
Angelo

[Minh]

Thank you Angelo. Scholte tended to use a high armhole and drape, which makes for a comfortable coat that stays put when the wearer moves.





With the high armhole and drape, the jacket collar stays on the neck even when the arm is raised.





Perfect sleeve pitch and attachment. The vent falls completely straight and perpendicular to the floor:

[Man at C&A]

The flyfishing plates made me chuckle. Wadding in such a long coat? I suspect Apparel Arts were more interested in fashion over function. Even at that date I would have to expected a short blouson jacket in duck or wax.

None the less, I'm happy to join the choir of thanks for these posts. Not just inspirational in my case; after a couple of weeks of trying to decide on the next project the fishing plate has forced my hand and there's a length of Lovat glencheck heading my way. Might even wear the results on a day at the chalk stream.

[Minh]

Thank you Derek for the generous mention. For everyone's enjoyment, I have Esquire September 1936. A few of the images are well-known, but I've included them for the sake of completeness.

A polo coat with grey flannel chalk-stripe suit and pinned collar oxford shirt. A beautiful detail is the polo coat's white pearl buttons.





Two undergraduate football players. On the right is a 3/2 single breasted suit in a hand-loomed brown and white herringbone Shetland wool. It's worn with a knit tie.





Hats for the fall and the winter:





Bolder than you think -- a three-piece peak lapel suit in a brown worsted suit with red and blue stripes:





A well-known photo from Flusser, showing a striking combination of patterns, including a windowpane, peak lapel overcoat on the left and a reversible tweed/gabardine topcoat on the right.





A college classic. Tweed jacket, chamois waistcoat with white pearl buttons, grey flannel trousers, buttondown oxford shirt, and foulard tie. The other student is wearing a navy double-breasted overcoat.

[jscherrer]

The brown worsted with red and blue stripes is fantastic. And the illustration is a humdinger too in the way it depicts nonchalant masculine power: businessman on telephone, chatting up an associate on the other side of the line while getting his shoes shined by a kneeling bootblack!

Thanks again for posting these Minh.

[JScott]

Thanks again Minh!

[JScott]

Minh, I would save these photos for reference and value, but it would help ever so much if you'd add all of them into a zip and upload the file somewhere. Could I tempt you with this small task in exchange for kudos and the assurance that you'd do the right thing?

You can extract all the photos at once using a free browser add-in:
Chrome - Image Downloader
Firefox - DownThemAll
Explorer - Pictures Toolbar
Safari - don't know an add-in but you can use the Mac automator

Or even easier, you can save the entire web page.

Also, I can gather all the files and upload them if no one objects.

[Gido]

Dear Minh,

This thread has been absolutely amazing. A real treat. Thank you very much for you kindness.

Cheers,
Gido

[Minh]

Happy that you're enjoying the thread Gido, JScherrer, JScott and C&A. I agree with David Isle that the clothes of the 1930s were much richer in hue and texture.

Today we have an epic post from the January 1934 issue of Esquire. The autumn and winter issues tend to have the best images. The pages are filled with a sumptuous profusion of tweeds in all of the colors of the fallen leaves.

A beautiful navy guard's overcoat. Esquire calls it "the one overcoat to have, since it is in excellent taste for daytime wear and can do double duty, in a pinch, by appearing after six o'clock over evening clothes." A detail that's not often seen is a starched yet pinned collar.





The windowpane ulster overcoat in a "heavy yet soft fleecy fabric."





A three piece suit with a double-breasted vest, to be worn with a windowpane overcoat. The suit is the "lounge model which features ease of line and rougher fabrics." Esquire describes the "present vogue for rough suitings," such as the dark brown cheviot in this outfit.





"From Princeton to California, the better dressed undergraduates are wearing shetlands, Harris tweeds, cashmere and cheviot suitings." The author calls this outfit "almost a campus uniform." The coat, introduced at Princeton in 1932, is a reversible tweed/gabardine. Since David mentioned the colorful shirts of the time, it's worth noting that the shirt is not the blue variety often worn with tweeds today, but a cream/light tan color that coordinates well with the earth tones.





A double-breasted black suit with a white double stripe. A detail that may interest Michael is that the overcoat has a warm lining in a large black and white houndstooth pattern: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11245&p=72749&hilit=lining#p72704.





A tailcoat with silk grosgrain lapels. The trousers have a high rise, reaching "just a bit below the lowest rib." The formal overcoat also has silk lapels. It must be said that the depiction of minorities at times reflected the discriminatory attitudes of the decade before World War II.





The winter fabric picture.





A double-breasted 6x3 overcoat with a suppressed waist. The suit is a grey herringbone tweed. The color of the boutonniere has an attractive name.





A brown tweed suit, flannel shirt with pinned collar, and white alpaca sweater. A camel colored Harris tweed overcoat with brown windowpane is draped over the car door.





A grey double-breasted herringbone suit.





Clothes for skiing. The Norfolk jacket is worn with a lovely scarf:





Apropos the Winter Olympics, clothes for skating:





I forgot to include a few images from the previously posted September 1936 issue. The Knox Hatter:





From left to right, a hand-tailored windowpane suit, a covert coat, and a Shetland tweed suit in herringbone:





Dobbs hats. Some of the best ads from the time are from the hatters.





Speaking of colorful shirts, here are Arrow shirts:





Jeffery Diduch might appreciate this. Hart Schaffner Marx.





University fashions. Note the seven-fold ties in repp stripes:





Accessories for the fall. Irish tweed ties, Argyle socks, a knitted waistcoat, a tweed hat, and cigarette lighters in the shape of shotgun shells.

[Russell]

Minh,

I can only add my note of gratitude to that expressed by others for your time & effort spent presenting these images.

Naturally they provide inspiration as regards colours, patterns, style etc which can be adapted & incorporated into our own modern lives to whatever extent we wish but that aside - frankly I just greatly enjoy looking at them.

Thanks again.

Regards
Russell

[Milo]

Minh,

As many others have said already, thank you for posting those beautiful pictures. They are truly inspirational. You are very lucky to have access to the originals - and we are all equally lucky that you choose to share them with us.

Milo