Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

[Minh]

Thank you theoldesouth, jscherrer, and Michael. I present you gentlemen the February 1936 issue of Esquire.

A gorgeous camel hair overcoat in a glen plaid, double-breasted ulster.





The two button peaked lapel suit. The drape in this model is cut with extra fabric under the arms, instead of in the chest.





A lovat tweed Glen Urquhart winter sports suit:





The polar vortex is a spring day in an Persian lamb collar overcoat, double-breasted and lined with mink:





Here's the Duke of Windsor's famous version:



The Duke's brother, the future King George VI:



Churchill was familiar with the coat as well:



Ski-wear, before techno-fabrics:





Resort-wear for Cannes in grey and white flannel:





What to wear on board the cruise. A double-breasted shawl collar dinner jacket with a soft silk shirt. For chilly nights, the dinner jacket can be worn with a camel hair polo coat or evening balmacaan. The pairing is surprising since the balmacaan, with its raglan sleeves, is usually a more casual overcoat.





Resort wear from the Riviera.





Ski-wear continued:





Beach-wear:





A two button peaked lapel grey flannel suit:





Edited for better photo-cropping.

[jscherrer]

The last illustration, showing the grey flannel 2-button peaked lapel is quite dashing. I have some Harrison's 1080 grey flannel...hmmm!

[J.S. Groot]

Anyone willing to wager that those huaraches will be the next big thing?

[alden]

Minh

Great stuff, keep em coming. Thanks!

The Ulster from this last set is stunning. That is how I see the Prince tweed TW10 made up, if we are able to make the cloth. Would be amazing in tweed.

The linen PoW looks like the checks from the LL linen selection. Its a great look, even worn with flannel.

What is the button configuration of the Midnight blue shawl collar DJ? Is it 2 x1?

Once again, the accessories choice is mouth watering. Glad we can't buy any of that stuff today cause I would!

Cheers

Michael

[jb]

Minh,

Thanks for these fantastic images! My eye also went to that midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket. The lines and color are wonderful.

There is so much here to revisit.

[angelo]

Minh,
Thank You very much for these beautiful images that amplify the pool of Esquire and Apparel Arts images not yet known by many of us.The POW linen sport jacket and the midnight blue shawl collar dinner jacket are really amazing. The combination of linen jacket with flannel trousers indicates to us that in that period the odd linen jackets were preferentially associated to non linen trousers , differently from today.
For the sake of the precision I would just like to point out that the Duke of Windsor's brother in the picture wearing the overcoat with an astrakhan collar is George, the Duke of kent (1902-1942).
Thanks again and keep going on.

Angelo

[hectorm]

What is the button configuration of the Midnight blue shawl collar DJ? Is it 2 x1?

It seems like it is because the lapels go too low to be a 4x2, but I can't really see it in the picture.
A DB DJ with a shawl collar is rarely seen nowadays (it's a bit more common for smoking jackets). That combination had its heyday in the 20's and early 30's as "informal" evening dress. I have read somewhere that was a stance preferred by those fond of Jazz clubbing.

[Minh]

It's always a pleasure to share classic style with gentleman who appreciate it Michael, JB, Angelo, Jscherrer, and Hector. For your viewing pleasure today, we have Esquire October 1936, starting with a glen plaid Saxony overcoat:





A triumph of texture. On the left, a camelhair polo coat and striped cheviot suit; on the right, a raglan tweed overcoat with rust overplaid and a grey glen plaid Saxony suit:





For an informal dinner, the three piece grey cheviot striped suit and the velvet house jacket with ribbed silk lapels:





A navy cheviot overcoat with a grey sharkskin pattern suit. The gentleman on the right is wearing a silk shirt:





Classic shoes in elegant lasts. Note the beautiful suits hanging nearby. In an amusing twist, the now familiar loafer was called, in 1936, a "Norwegian peasant shoe."





Warm clothing to watch the game. Your date is much more likely to throw her arms around you when you're wearing a fur coat.

[alden]

Speaking of tweed topcoats and the LLTW10 in particular. Here is a video I did way back when.

This quality cloth made up in the Prince tweed would be a marvel of the sartorial world.




Cheers

[alden]

HI Minh

The illustration of the father and son near the hot dog stand shows two classic Reid & Taylor like fabrics from that era. The suiting the young man is wearing could be a duplicate of my Bronze Eagle R&T and the raglan topcoat is straight out of the 30's archives. Superb cloth!

Cheers

Michael

[davidhuh]

A DB DJ with a shawl collar is rarely seen nowadays (it's a bit more common for smoking jackets). That combination had its heyday in the 20's and early 30's as "informal" evening dress. I have read somewhere that was a stance preferred by those fond of Jazz clubbing.

Dear Hectorm,

I had one made up last year. The tailor said it was challenging, as he had not made one in many years. He did a great job, the result is superb. Mine is a 4x2, pictures to come.

What we see here is likely 2x1.

Cheers, David

[jb]

That raglan topcoat caught my eye also. I have a long tweed DB overcoat (well below the knee, heavy LBD lining and sleeves a half inch longer than normal for more overlap with my gloves) that works great for this nasty Chicago winter weather we are having. I have to say that in my normal casual winter attire of moleskin/corduroy/flannel trousers, button-down shirt, and cashmere sweater I was completely warm in that coat in our recent -15F/-26C weather.

What I don't have is a good topcoat. When Chris and I get together in February I want to talk about using the wide Donegal herringbone for a raglan topcoat similar to the one in the illustration. Of course, the Prince tweed would be magnificent too. We shall see.

Joel

[jscherrer]

The Glen Plaid overcoat is a stunner. Thanks for continuing to post these illustrations Minh...

[yialabis]

Minh , great inspiration .
Thank you sincerely

Vassilis

[theoldesouth]

Handsome footwear on display!