Mohair.

[Melcombe]

Today was a good day : it always is when you're picking up a finished commission. In this case, a blue 2-piece using a length of cloth "found" lurking in the back of my tailor's shop. The cloth is a plain weave 100% mohair in a fairly heavy weight (for mohair) : I'm guessing about 9-10 oz.

I called in to his premises early this morning, so it was a case of 'don't wrap it - I'll wear it'. And so the day has been mostly a distraction from what I should have been concentrating on, by the pleasure of airing the new suit.

I have on the way discovered 3 lessons, the first two being rather trivial.

One : mohair and (cheap) woven silk ties don't mix. My tie now has a slight fuzz all over the parts that came into contact with the mohair. I suspect this won't happen with satin finish silks. The mohair feels smoother than other mohair cloths I had come across, but plainly the fibres have a bit of an edge to them.

Two : despite feeling smooth against my skin, the fabric of the trousers certainly came out tops in a head-to-head with my hairy legs. Nothing untoward, but more like tweed than I was expecting.

Three : I am now completely smitten by mohair. Despite the comments above, I love the cold, solid feel of the cloth, but the effect of sunlight on it is just astonishing. As it turned out, today was certainly the day to find that out - we had clear skies and low angled but strong sunshine most of the day. Indoors, the cloth appears quite muted, it gives the impression of a very sober navy albeit with some distinct depth. Outdoors however, it is quite a different story : luminous, in a striking (very striking, my colleague suggested with some emphasis) mid blue. I'm guessing it's an ultraviolet light thing - I shall see if I can find an artificial UV source to test that theory.

I had in the past been disinclined to consider mohair as I had rather associated it with Tonik. In a heavy version however, with little shine but significant colour variation, it is I have come to the conclusion, very much to my liking.

Now to talk myself into another mohair project.... (this could become an obsession). Any other mohair-istas out there?

[GSC]

Melcombe,

I would't call myself a mohair-ista but I do have had two suits made recently from the Bateman & Ogden mohair book. One is a 11/12 ounce mid blue and the other is an 8 ounce RAF blue, both are 30% mohair. I have really been enjoying them, more than I expected. The 8 ounce is light but has much more structure that an 8 ounce worsted (at least the one I tried from Lessers), and the 11/12 ounce tailors very well for a mid/light-weight cloth give its added stiffness. As you note, in the sunlight the effect is astonishing. Both have remarkable depth. I have come to favor much heavier cloth because of the way it tailors and the depth of color. These mohair blends are very successful in lighter weights. I will definitely make a few more suits using it. I am tempted to try a 100% mohair but haven't found
any. Halsted appears to have some but I have yet to see them. I considered a blue from Lessers that is 45% mohair. I'd be interested in a heavier weight mohair too. Any thoughts about a good source?

Cheers,

GSC

[mimile]

Melcombe,
I totally agree with you. At the same weight a Wool-Mohair blend (70-30) has more drape, shape retention and airiness than pure wool, plus a bit of shine. The 70-30 combination is prefect for me. I wear nothing else in the summer.

[hectorm]

Any other mohair-istas out there?

At the same weight a Wool-Mohair blend (70-30) has more drape, shape retention and airiness than pure wool, plus a bit of shine. The 70-30 combination is prefect for me.

In the cast of my play, mohair can be an excellent supporting actor that can undertake its role very well, but nothing more.
The only mohair I wear is in the wool blend of my DB dinner suit. As mimile says, it gives the suit some airiness and just the right bit of shine for formal nighttime. I would not consider 100% mohair for a 2 piece suit.

[Mark Seitelman]

I have been told that 100% mohair is brittle.

An older clothing salesman (now about 80) told me 100% mohair was more common in the 1950's and 1960's, but its popularity waned because of it propensity to break. He had break in his trouser which ran the length of his leg. He used a bunch of safety pins to keep the pants together.

Therefore, mohair is typically blended with wool.

[Screaminmarlon]

Four years ago I found a couple lenghts (one in Raf Blue, the other in mid gray-dark gray mix) of 13oz 70wool/30mohair.
I guess it was an old stock from H&S: I had the first made up as a DB coat (there wasn't enough cloth for a suit) and I have to say it's cool in milanese summer heat, despite being a DB.
I'd like to have the other made up as a SB suit someday,

[Melcombe]

I have to say it's cool in milanese summer heat, despite being a DB.
I'd like to have the other made up as a SB suit someday,

That's interesting - I would suppose that weight for weight mohair is going to be cooler than a woollen equivalent on account of its (usually) spacious weave to accommodate the stiffer fibres. I've not heard about breakages in mohair 'though, I've supposed - possibly wrongly - that it's very durable?

Mine appears to be from William Halstead according to the selvedge.(I really should have known that before I started but I was mesmerised by the colour!) They don't appear to retail directly, but some cloth merchants around West Yorkshire seem to have quite a bit of their stuff in stock.

One other observation since wearing it a little, it 'springs' back to shape quite noticeably, when all wool would perhaps remain draped. Different! (in a good way)

[cathach]

One : mohair and (cheap) woven silk ties don't mix. My tie now has a slight fuzz all over the parts that came into contact with the mohair. I suspect this won't happen with satin finish silks. The mohair feels smoother than other mohair cloths I had come across, but plainly the fibres have a bit of an edge to them.

A tip that may work for defuzzing your ties is to run a flame quickly over the fabric, the fuzz should burn off.

[hectorm]

A tip that may work for defuzzing your ties is to run a flame quickly over the fabric, the fuzz should burn off.

Melcombe, just in case after you follow cathach´s advice: Drake´s is having a sale of grenadines.

[Melcombe]

That might come in very handy!

I did spend too long on a very dull conference call earlier this week. While feigning active participation, I happened to have a pair of scissors within a short stretch and promptly took to giving the tie a short-back-and-sides.

Not perfect, but no longer sprouting silky dreadlocks. And less likely to set off the smoke-detector.

[cathach]

Not perfect, but no longer sprouting silky dreadlocks. And less likely to set off the smoke-detector.

O ye of little faith! Its recommended by at least one manufacturer: http://www.beautiesltd.com/our-fabrics

"The beauty created by weaving individual strands of silk together may cause some woven fabrics to fray and look "fuzzy" if they come into contact with your beard. Our wovens are chosen for their tight weaves and should not suffer. If, however, your tie shows any signs of fraying, an open flame – we recommend using a barbecue lighter – applied directly above the frayed silk, will "melt" the strands back into the weave (without igniting them) and eliminate the fuzz."

[C.Lee]

The process of burning off loose or protruding fibres is referred to as singeing, and is commonly carried out in the textile industry. The article Singeing Fundamentals by Tanveer Hussain is a nice backgrounder to the subject: http://www.academia.edu/2284906/Singeing_Fundamentals.

Here is a short video of a gas singeing machine:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_Si4UimaA9 ... Si4UimaA9M

Safe to say, any loose fibres in my wardrobe are dealt with with a pair of scissors!

Regards.

[MRJ]

Hectorm,
Why do you think Drakes are having a sale of Grenadine ties- I cannot find reference to it on their site and the Grenadine pricing seems unchanged to me
Regards

[hectorm]

O ye of little faith!

My lack of faith was not directed at you, dear cathach, but towards my (or melcombe´s) skills wielding a flaming torch.

[Dr T]

Its my number one cloth although i normaly have a wool/mohair blend. I travel a lot and a high mohair content seem to provide me with a suit that always looks good and reasonably crease free. Ive just colleted my latest suit from Benson and Clegg in London, will be wearing it for the first time in Dubai next week, in a silver grey it looks the business.