Linen instead of cotton as basic shirting

[Rob O]

I don't know if this adds to the conversation around hemp however Howies (a yoof cycling brand) make jeans using this fabric. If you care to look at the writeup it is interesting that hemp is much more environmentally friendly than cotton. They also say it is hard wearing and ages beautifully.

http://www.howies.co.uk/hobo-indigo.html

[robert_n]

@ Internationalist:

I've used hemp fabric to have boxer-shorts made. But I do not find them as moisture-absorbent as linen, though they certainly are harder-wearing.

[internationalist]

@ Internationalist:

I've used hemp fabric to have boxer-shorts made. But I do not find them as moisture-absorbent as linen, though they certainly are harder-wearing.

You are supposed to wear 100% linen: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 554#p65554
And a blend of cotton-hemp (45%-55% is the norm): http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 909#p71909

I don't know if your boxer shorts were 100% hemp or the blend variant.

[internationalist]

This one might be for your interest as well:

http://www.offsetwarehouse.com/
Eco Textiles for Fashion and Interiors

[internationalist]

I went dog sledding in Lapland this February and challenged myself to not buy technical crap from shops. I brought my 5 LL linen shirts and only one heavy wool Brittany sweater which belonged to my grandpa and a snowboard jacket.
I never felt once cold wearing the shirts, and even dropped the sweater after a few hourson the first day. Granted the temperature was only -15 celcius.
I felt warmer than all the others from my group and would even sdrop the jacket when we stopped to allow for the linen to dry - which it did in matters of seconds whereas my friends were soaked wet in their cosmonauts plastic t shirts...

For sports you may want to try a 100% wool T-shirt? There are many variants.

[robert_n]

@ Internationalist:

Originally I had boxers made from cotton, then from 100% hemp, finally settling definitively on linen.

[robert_n]

This would seem to corroborate my unscientific conclusions about hemp's superior durability vis-à-vis linen. Linen is still superior for comfort, though I do prefer hemp to cotton (unless we're talking high-end shirts).
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Riggi ... sails.html

[Frederic Leighton]

From the writings of an English traveller in Ireland in Tudor times we read that 'the native (or wild) Irish wore shirts of thirty or forty ells of linen dyed with saffron'. Since an ell was a yard and a quarter, I'll agree with any of you who feel tempted to remark, 'It must have been a hell of a shirt.' King Henry the eighth tried to enforce a law passed in 1537 in respect to dress. It certainly was a disciplinary Act. 'It decreed that no subject should be shaved above the ears or wear linen dyed in saffron or above seven yards of linen in a chemise or any silk-embroidered kirtle or coat . . . but that all were to conform to the English language and fashions.'

More in A History of Irish Linen.

[Frederic Leighton]

Ready for my first linen shirt! This was more complicated than the other times, plus they forgot I don't like thick buttons (no, I don't) nor the standard gusset with their monogram. The collar also needed some improvement. The shirt went back and 5 phone calls later here it is! Happy spring!

[Screaminmarlon]

It looks stunning: linen has a charm of its own.
Compliments Federico and may you wear it in health!
M.

[Frederic Leighton]

Thank you, Screaminmarlon*! This Irish linen is fantastic! It looks a bit thicker than the LL one, which is why I chose it. Still, it's very smooth and very similar in texture to the LL linen. London is sunny and windy today; I'm trying the shirt, although this time, with the new collar, they changed the tie gap. I'll pop in at the post office on Monday afternoon

I'm also not happy with the armhole yet, but will double check with my London tailor before sending the shirt back. On my last visit, the shirtmaker explained that linen is a bit tricky to work with (she actually said Il lino e' schifoso! ).

Anyone else experiencing this kind of unreliability when commissioning linen shirts? The good thing is that they never complain when I send the shirts back

* Looking very much forward to more photos of your stunning Mistral suit!

[davidhuh]

I'm also not happy with the armhole yet, but will double check with my London tailor before sending the shirt back. On my last visit, the shirtmaker explained that linen is a bit tricky to work with (she actually said Il lino e' schifoso! ).

Anyone else experiencing this kind of unreliability when commissioning linen shirts? The good thing is that they never complain when I send the shirts back

Dear Federico,

the unreliability has a lot to do with your shirtmaker, and little with the linen. She seems honest, because she told you what she thinks of it

Cheers, David

[Frederic Leighton]

Yes, dear David; of course you are right Although, I must say, my shirt makers are such a nice old couple, always polite and gentle in their manners, the shop unpretentious despite the very central location among medieval buildings, the prices the same as 15 years ago, the fabrics good, and they certainly don't lack the will of making the customer happy. I asked so many improvements, changes and fixes even before being charged for the shirt I was trying! They never complained - il cliente deve essere contento, she said once.

I think they still represent a good opportunity for me to learn, considering my very little experience as a bespeaker, and to feel free to learn and explore as the price is affordable. They don't ask me to be happy with a shirt I'm not happy with, and this makes quite a lot of difference! By the way - today I really enjoyed wearing this first linen shirt. The cloth feels gorgeous and wrinkles very little. I'll just ask slightly smaller armholes and a smaller tie gap and, once again, they will send me a completely new shirt at no extra cost. Bless them!

[davidhuh]

Dear Federico,

please, enjoy her experience and services - a little imprecision here and then is not a big deal. Most of my shirts are made by Budd, and Mr Butcher's precision is impressive. There was an issue once with the interlining, and they had to change about a dozen of shirts made at once - all was fixed to my entire satisfaction.

A few other shirts are made by an old lady, and she makes the most beautiful button holes by hand. Every now and then, she get's something wrong because she is thinking about I don't know what. But she always faithfully corrects everything. Sometimes, she makes me pay dearly when telling me to buy twice the necessary length of cashmere for a dressing gown, and she only realises her mistake when the cutting is done. But this is another fun story I will have to tell the LL one day

Cheers, David

[hectorm]

Most of my shirts are made by Budd, and Mr Butcher's precision is impressive.

Dear David,
One morning 19 years ago I got married in a shirt cut by John Butcher. A real masterpiece, with the most magnificent old-fashioned detachable wing collar (my bride being a fan of Jane Austen and the like, you can imagine where the encouragement came from). I can see Mr. Butcher's shirt everyday in a framed wedding photograph by my wife's writing desk. Although I have tried the shirt on several times since then and it fits me well, I have not worn it again. Sometimes I think it's a shame but it's a bit too much for the morning weddings I have attended and it doesn't go well with my dinner jackets either.
Now, I would like to hear the story of the cashmere dressing gown (maybe in another thread?)