White Tie Bespoke NYC Recommendations

[Newman Xeno]

Hello all,
My brother is getting married in November. It will be a white tie wedding (full tails), and while he'll be going to the family tailor in Sweden, I live in New York and won't be able to travel for the various fittings. Do you have any recommendations for a bespoke tailor in the city? So far, I've spoken to Logsdail, who I know is top notch, and have a call in to Rafaelli as well. I also talked to the new custom shop at Paul Stuart, who I think do CMT with Martin Greenfield's workshop, but given the precision needed for proper tails, I'm loathe to use a tailor that others haven't vouched for. Does anyone happen to have any other recommendations?

Thank you,

David

[Bwooster]

I saw some photos of clients in white tie at Raphael's studio, they looked beautiful and classic, if that's any help. My father had his tails done MTM at Oxxford (with a lovely white pique db vest), and they are extremely nice, I think a large firm like this probably has good experience making white tie, better than many newer bespoke tailors in fact, but I'd still assume Logsdail's and Raphael's take would be more personal and original. I'd consider Frank Shattuck as well, his hand is evident in the clothes he makes, loads of personality (both the suits and the man), and I'd imagine tails from him would look as if they had been meant for a character in Il Gattopardo. Please post pics regardless of whom you choose, bespoke tails are a rare thing and even rarer is finding evidence of them online!

[Newman Xeno]

Thank you, Bwooster. I will certainly let everyone know who I choose, what the process is like, and of course post the result. I hadn't seen a db vest done with tails- interesting!
David

[hsw9001]

Other alternatives would be to use visiting tailors from the UK.

[couch]

Newman, if you are still looking at styling choices, as evidenced by your comments on the vest, do look up etutee's post (in his AA/Esky series, also recently re-linked under the thread about the Gentlemen's Gazette e-book) on evening wear. There are a number of variations shown along with good discussion.

[couch]

Other alternatives would be to use visiting tailors from the UK.

I'm not sure whether the OP's timetable would permit that, but yes, since body coats are no longer so common, a house like Poole, with deep experience cutting body coats (or other UK tailors/cutters old enough to have worked with men who cut them regularly) would be logical. It may well be a pity that the OP can't make it to Sweden and the family tailor since my impression is that white tie is still worn for more occasions there than in many places (and thus likely to provide experience for the tailors). An academic friend, former fellow of All Souls and longtime member of the standing faculty at the University of Virginia, has a close friend and colleague from Sweden who came to do a visiting professor gig at UVA. Though he'd brought only two suitcases, he had packed his full evening fig, because he naturally assumed he would need to wear it to hear dissertation defenses. My friend had to break it to him that he would be lucky if all the faculty present were wearing long trousers, never mind the candidate.

[Newman Xeno]

I've been warned-off working with a travelling tailor given the schedule, unfortunately. And certainly, white tie is much more common in continental Europe (particularly Germanic / Scandinavian parts) than it is in the UK or, by a longshot, here in the US.

Etutee's post was superlative, thank you for the recommendation.

David

[Newman Xeno]

When was the last time anyone here had items made by Rafaelli?

Thank you,

David

[dopey]

Several years in my case - before he took ill.

[Concordia]

Oh no-- is he back in the saddle?

[Newman Xeno]

He is certainly back, although perhaps showing his age. I'm looking forward to seeing the work he does for me!

[hsw9001]

How did you decide on Rafael vs Logsdsil?

[Newman Xeno]

There was a substantial difference in price.