Tweed Odd Jacket Cloth & Details

[old henry]

the front is quite short. see it hiking up.
the chest is very aggravated because of this short front... pulling up under the arm. that aint drape.. see how the sleeve is gathering at the back. the whole thing wants to come forward... short front.. the whole coat is being pulled up .also..way too much front dart..see the plaid..too much suck.. thats not how to give shape...also.. the coat is sliding off him. see on the neck.... he might have semi sloped shoulders. he has a long neck. .the collar should be on it. i am going to venture that the back is short also. see how low the collar rides. and he may have a bit of a sway back..look at the uncomfortable pull along the waist line when buttoned.. forced. a poorly cut coat all'round. not easy on any eye.... he looks like he just fell out of 1978.

[hectorm]

the front is quite short. see it hiking up.
the chest is very aggravated because of this short front... pulling up under the arm. that aint drape.. see how the sleeve is gathering at the back. the whole thing wants to come forward... short front.. the whole coat is being pulled up .also..way too much front dart..see the plaid..too much suck.. thats not how to give shape...also.. the coat is sliding off him. see on the neck.... he might have semi sloped shoulders. he has a long neck. .the collar should be on it. i am going to venture that the back is short also. see how low the collar rides. and he may have a bit of a sway back..look at the uncomfortable pull along the waist line when buttoned.. forced. a poorly cut coat all'round. not easy on any eye.... he looks like he just fell out of 1978.

I see....but what about everything else?

[old henry]

hahahahahah oh everything else is fine, Heck

[emc894]

Thank you for your advice everyone. Unfortunately, a disheartening update:

I just received the long awaited tweed jacket in the mail from my tailor and, unfortunately he saw fit to give me a ticket pocket and 4 buttons, when I asked for none and 3. I realize this happens from time to time in bespoke and that it comes with the territory to some extent, but it is honestly quite annoying. My tailor is on a different continent. I sent him an email pointing out the mistakes, but what do you think I, as a customer, deserve in this context?

Thanks,

Teddy

[alden]

I realize this happens from time to time in bespoke and that it comes with the territory to some extent, but it is honestly quite annoying.

That kind of thing should not happen and does not come with the territory! I would ask to have the coat remade.

Cheers

Michael

[rodes]

emc894,
From your post of November 12, 2012 you asked for a 2 button front and 3 button cuff. Did you get the front that you wanted with 4 button cuff? If so, I would accept the coat and train myself to enjoy it despite the mistakes. Of course, this is an easy call for me since I prefer 4 cuff buttons on all coats and favor ticket pockets on tweed odd jackets. I do, however, agree with Michael that this should not have happened in the first place. Hope this helps.

[emc894]

emc894,
From your post of November 12, 2012 you asked for a 2 button front and 3 button cuff. Did you get the front that you wanted with 4 button cuff? If so, I would accept the coat and train myself to enjoy it despite the mistakes. Of course, this is an easy call for me since I prefer 4 cuff buttons on all coats and favor ticket pockets on tweed odd jackets. I do, however, agree with Michael that this should not have happened in the first place. Hope this helps.

I received the front I wanted (2 button) with a four button cuff (instead of 3) and an unwanted ticket pocket. I have sent a politely worded email and am waiting to hear from the tailor. The cloth and rest of the coat are great though.

[marburyvmadison]

I would not ask the tailor to remake the coat just because he added an additional button on the cuffs, but would if he added a fourth button on the front.

I think that whether you ask for a re-make -- because you detest the ticket pocket -- depends on your r/s with the tailor (and the prospects of never using him again), how much you detest those features, and the price of the coat.

[rodes]

The extra button on the cuff is a very minor infraction, the ticket poket more serious. Still, perhaps not with a tweed odd jacket. It would not bother me in the least, except to take care in seeing that it did not happen again. I remember reading a post a while back (perhaps from Costi) who said that he once ordered a few suits with ticket pockets and then wished that he could make them disappear. This has never happened with me and my best guess is that it will not happen with you. Although I only get them on more informal suits and odd jackets, I favor ticket pockets in this mode. Considering this coat, no one will ever view the extra pocket as being out of place and some, like myself will even appreciate the detail. Again, I hope this helps. We have all been there my friend.

[DFR]

Thank you for your advice everyone. Unfortunately, a disheartening update:

I just received the long awaited tweed jacket in the mail from my tailor and, unfortunately he saw fit to give me a ticket pocket and 4 buttons, when I asked for none and 3. I realize this happens from time to time in bespoke and that it comes with the territory to some extent, but it is honestly quite annoying. My tailor is on a different continent. I sent him an email pointing out the mistakes, but what do you think I, as a customer, deserve in this context?

Thanks,

Teddy

A polite apology.

It should not happen but it is neither the end of the world nor are other feature unacceptable. Some might say four buttons to the cuff would look better.

Get over it and move on.

[davidhuh]

I received the front I wanted (2 button) with a four button cuff (instead of 3) and an unwanted ticket pocket. I have sent a politely worded email and am waiting to hear from the tailor. The cloth and rest of the coat are great though.

Dear emc894,

I'm sorry, this is getting quite a choir here ... A four button cuff instead of three? Looks better anyway. A ticket pocket on a tweed coat? Very useful in my eyes - and if I remember well, you contemplated about having one yourself, a bit earlier in this thread.

Suggest you have a good drink on your new coat and get over it quickly.

Cheers, David

[alden]

emc894

The way I first read your post was that the tailor had given you a 4 button front instead of 3. That would have been grounds for requesting a remake. It turns out this is a question of 4 buttons on a sleeve and much ado about nothing. As regards the tweedy ticket pocket, you might learn to like the various tickets you find on long walks in the country.

Cheers

Michael

[hectorm]

A ticket pocket on a tweed coat? Very useful in my eyes.

They may be useful indeed as David says, but those pockets on tweed coats are not really ticket pockets. The use of those little pockets predates by much the issuing of train or bus tickets, and I doubt you would wear your tweeds to the theater or ballet.
Those little pockets are coin pockets which originally appeared on riding jackets. Being small and slanted they facilitated the access of the rider to just the exact change to pay for a rural toll or to tip a hostler.
30 years ago, by default, I used to order a ticket pocket in every tweed jacket (hacking style). More recently I stopped asking because I don't think they go that well with the more relaxed sack style I favor now. But sometimes I wish I had one. They help to keep things in order.