Galosh tops

[Gabriel]

I love the look of these boots, available ready made from John Lobb, but where would one wear them? The same boots with grey suede ankles would be perfect with morning dress (maybe better with buttoned galosh tops instead of laces—but so fiddly!), but I think brown ankles with MD would look a bit odd. Or would they?
Nevertheless, I think these brown and black boots look very fine indeed. I just can't think of how they might best be used. Perhaps with grey flannels? No, that doesn't really work.
Such a nice looking shoe must surely have a purpose. What do you think?

[hectorm]

Dear Gabriel,
I believe those handsome Golosh oxford ankle boots could be worn at an advantage with a Cairn tweed suit.

[Gabriel]

Thank you Hectorm, I agree! I had not thought of Cairn tweed.
And perhaps some other tweeds as well? What do you think about matching them with a suit in Cordings "Sporting Tweed"?


I am also thinking they would look well with grey or (even better) taupe Glenurquhart check. Or a mixture, such as this:


I just came across this image as well, though perhaps the tie is overdoing it slightly! Also, ignore the cut of the jacket, etc. This is to illustrate the cloth only!


So far, tweed seems to be the answer.

[Russell]

Boots as high as those are only really practical when wearing breeks or plus-twos (not plus fours as the folds of the cloth come too low).

However the combination of a metropolitan bottom coupled with a relatively extreme 'country' (or dare I say 'Commando') top leaves me cold. I don't mind the Galosh top style as such but personally I feel it works better with much lower tops - with lace holes not tabs.

Regards
Russell

[Gabriel]

Dear Russell,
I know exactly what you mean about the plus twos, and with a more sturdy shoe area that would be the solution. But these are definitely town shoes, or at any rate not for the countryside.
However, I disagree that ankle boots are out of place in the city. Galosh tops and ankle boots have a strong lineage in town.
So the confusion continues, except that while I (and perhaps others) love the shoe, others are left cold!
De gustibus non est disputandem.

[Russell]

Gabriel,
I beg to differ - those boots are hardly 'ankle boots' town boots - more like mid calf, I walk though bogs with lower boots than those

I didn't say ankle boots were out of place in town - I pointed out that the Lobb boots would be better for town use with lower tops & certainly without metal lace tabs - in other words - proper ankle boots for use with trousers.

I quite agree the bottom part is 'town' - very much so in galosh style but their height especially with the metal tab hooks is hardcore 'out-of-town'. The combination of Oxford galosh bottoms & high commando tops mean they end up being neither fish nor fowl. Their hight & lacing ironmongery makes them somewhat unsuited (no pun intended) to wearing under normal long trousers - hence my recommendation for wearing breeks with the boots as presented for reasons of practicality.

I'm a fan of proper ankle boots & I wear them myself in an Oxford town style (brown or black) or a brown brogue depending on the situation. A proper ankle boot is practical, stylish & easy to wear with trousers; a nice change from normal shoes & I applaud your interest in them. Cut 6" off the Lobb boot & you'd perhaps have something worthy of your good taste.

Regards

Russell

[hectorm]

Galosh tops and ankle boots have a strong lineage in town.
So the confusion continues, except that while I (and perhaps others) love the shoe, others are left cold! [/i].

those boots are hardly 'ankle boots' town boots - more like mid calf, I walk through bogs with lower boots than those.

Dear Gabriel and Russell,
if you believe that the classical distinction between country shoes and city shoes is one to be made, then as Russell says -for their height and metal hooks closure- these Moscow Balmoral boots would be very difficult to classify as city footwear. At least in London, they are not. But you have to change your mind set for a minute and picture the Russian opera singer who first commissioned them at John Lobb in St James's Street more than 100 years ago. Probably he couldn't care less about British country and city styles, and he most likely wore those boots with flare in other parts of the world very different from London. Just imagine him, as he stepped into the snow covered streets coming out of his triumphal performance at the opera house wrapped in his astrakhan cape. Those boots couldn't have been more perfect. So perfect they were that soon other Muscovites imitated him and wore similar boots in their way to the opera, changing into pumps once inside the house. They even had their initials (in huge Cyrillic letters) carved on the heels of the boots to facilitate their identification in the mud room.

[Gabriel]

Dear Russell,
You put your case persuasively, and your pointing out the boots' defects I must reluctantly admit has made me begin to love these boots less. I have fought this disloyalty hard and I cannot say I haven't suffered. I must nevertheless agree that the boots would be better for being shorter in the ankle (for my needs at any rate), but still with the handsome tan galosh tops. Which means going bespoke.

Dear Hectorm,
It seems you have done some research and I appreciate your comments. Moscow Balmorals! Who would have thought! I must say I am very relieved. After Russell's comprehensive disparagement of the objects of my affection I was beginning to doubt even Mr Lobb (who is no fool when it comes to boots ) and suspect he was creating something ephemeral for the 'fashion' market. Your explanation provides some context for this confusing but—I still think—elegant bit of footwear.

My conclusion so far is that these boots, with a shorter ankle, would be very fine indeed worn with tweeds. The boots, as they are, I think I shall sigh over and then forget.

[hectorm]

Dear Hectorm,
It seems you have done some research and I appreciate your comments.

My pleasure, Gabriel.
The archives of Johh Lobb St James´s Street are a treasure for those of us who have an intense interest in clothes and dressing styles. They always serve as an inspiration or reference for bespoke customers, but once in while they open up for us mere mortals (like they did indirectly through the French John Lobb´s Spirits of the Capitals) and it´s a true delight to discover the history and stories behind every pair of shoes.
I found the following video for your enjoyment. Your beloved Moscow Balmoral boots show up on it.
http://vimeo.com/31476270

[Gabriel]

Dear Hectorm,
What a wonderful video! I could smell the shoes as I watched it, which I did several times. Seeing the Moscow Balmorals alongside other shoes and real people, they actually don't seem (to me) so high in the ankle after all. The Cyrillic embossed initials are very large indeed, though, aren't they? And the black heel seems to extend right up the back of the boot. Certainly not what I expected.
The provenance and unique design and history of these boots are causing me to be drawn again to them, perhaps irresistibly. How clever of you to have discovered so much about them! Many thanks.

[Gabriel]

I have just watched the video again and I am pretty sure the boots as displayed in the exhibition in their original design are four (that is, eight) lace tabs shorter than the boots as now offered ready made. I wonder why? It seems to me that the 'improvements' made for the retail market are not an improvement.

[hectorm]

I am pretty sure the boots as displayed in the exhibition in their original design are four (that is, eight) lace tabs shorter than the boots as now offered ready made.

Dear Gabriel,
I suspect that you might be a bit confused and it´s understandable given similarities in names and models.
You say again (like on your first post) that these boots are offered ready-made by John Lobb. John Lobb (St James´s Street), where you obtained your pictures from, does NOT offer ready-made shoes.
It was the French John Lobb (owned by Hermès, based in Paris and with many stores around the world, including London) that set up the exhibition ¨Spirits of the Capitals" shown on the video.
The French John Lobb DOES offer ready-made shoes but I don´t think they have the Russian Balmoral boots in their catalogue. Since they also have their own bespoke operation, you might get them custom made there too.
And you are right: the model in the exhibition is shorter (and has many other differences too, in the last, thicker sole, suede finish in the ankles, etc.). You can see all these details in the link below.
IMO these boots (at the exhibition) not only look better overall, save for the carved initials, but they are also more practical than the ones in reference at John Lobb that you posted at the start of this thread.
http://lyramag.blogspot.com/2011/03/joh ... spoke.html