Spoils of Napoli

[Onobitno]

Hello cathach,

Yes, I did try one shirtmaker, her name is Maria and she works right accross from Caccioppoli. Her camiceria is called "Le tres M". She might not be the top end in Napoli, but great value in my mind. The fit is great, trial shirt was done quickly and several fittings with the trial shirt were done on one visit. As it was a quite week, I was able to pick up my shirt one day after the fitting. She offers three levels of finish: all machine, arms attached by hand (what I used) and more hand work. I was very pleased with her work, so more shirts are being made.

One needs patience in Napoli. As this was my first bespoke experience I needed some time to adjust. Some tailors are better prepared for visitors, ie their first fitting is far more advanced than with others. As I said, I will report in March, once I have completed my initial order.

Cheers,
Leo

[cathach]

As it was a quite week, I was able to pick up my shirt one day after the fitting. She offers three levels of finish: all machine, arms attached by hand (what I used) and more hand work. I was very pleased with her work, so more shirts are being made.

One needs patience in Napoli. As this was my first bespoke experience I needed some time to adjust. Some tailors are better prepared for visitors, ie their first fitting is far more advanced than with others. As I said, I will report in March, once I have completed my initial order.

Cheers,
Leo

Leo,

Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with us. I plan to visit Naples for a week in May and to focus on shirts and perhaps some ties. So for the trip I'm drawing up a list of makers to narrow down to three or four whom I will try and visit. I must say your visit does give one hope as the speed of fitting and delivery of the first shirt is lightning fast from what I've experienced of southern European timescales!

[Onobitno]

Hi cathach,

As I said, this was an exception. The trail shirt and the fittings can be done quickly, but the final shirt usually needs a few days. Everybody I spoke to in Napoli about shirtmaking was instantly mentioning Merolla. One tailor mentioned Piccolo on Via Chiaia and one other was praising his own production. But even those two spoke highly of Merolla. I have not yet tested Merolla, as my own experience was very good and my demands not that high. But in any case my first bespoke shirt more than surpassed my expectations. The hand stitching is nowhere near Kiton, but the fit is on an absolutely different level and I was able to chose my favourite fabric, SICtess cellulare.

Just a small hint: Cloth sellers (Buonanno, Caccioppoli, Esposito, others) were extremely helpful in naming, ranking and commenting on craftsmen. They get lots of feedback and they also have everybody’s contact details. As many of you will know, telephone numbers and street addresses change quite often, so these suppliers will be of much help locating your desired artisan.

Diego at Caccioppoli speaks English and he was most helpful in finding my first shirtmaker, Maria.

Regards,
Leo

[alden]

Just a small hint: Cloth sellers (Buonanno, Caccioppoli, Esposito, others) were extremely helpful in naming, ranking and commenting on craftsmen. They get lots of feedback and they also have everybody’s contact details. As many of you will know, telephone numbers and street addresses change quite often, so these suppliers will be of much help locating your desired artisan.

Remember that in Italy ( and especially in S. Italy) a commission of some kind is always associated with any introduction. If some one sends you anywhere, to anyone, any time, they expect to be remunerated for this service. So people will send you where they receive the highest commission, not necessarily to the best craftsman. The best craftsmen, unless they have a slow period in their business, will normally be fully booked with work. As such they are not as motivated to pay kick backs.

Its not a really dreadful custom, but foreigners should know what is going on to determine their best course of action, objectively.

Cheers

[Petronius]

Dear Manton and Dear All!
I am quiet aware of the fact that to appreciate the South of Italy a person needs to understand so many things: thanks to God everything stops for lunch, people live outside and the life isn't so cold. Like somewhere else...we have problems here but we try to compensate with so many otherthings that elevate the spirit like food, natural beauty and,if you want, bespoke clothes,generosity.
I appreciate generally the world when i travel and of course i do not expect to find delicious spaghetti in Texas where the Hamburger is the best or delicious pizza in Paris where the foie gras is the best and etc..
The South of Italy is that and i strongly hope that the globalization or the euro do not ruin it!
Going back to theSartoria:
Said that Mr Solito is a great taylor and one of the few remaining...his coats and spalla napoletana are masterpieces.
I use Mimmo Pirozzi, the last remaining for the pure old art, the one which belonged to Blasi, Schiraldi,who has got his Sartoria in via Chiaia and his spalla insellata e rovesciata are the last remaining from a very ancient way to sew: pure art!
Some of his creation are in www.thedapperslowth.com and in the future i will post some of my suits here as well.

Ciao