Beginner bespoke

[cosmic]

I began my bespoke journey earlier this year, and have now commissioned four completed items - a dinner suit, a navy blazer, and 2 suits in solid charcoal and navy to cover more formal occasions/work. So, I thought I would ask the Lounge for advice on where to go from here.

My initial thoughts are to get a 3rd suit that could do double-duty - wearable day to day for work (I'm in central London and want to stick to acceptable business attire there), but also useful to wear when out at the weekend or evenings. I was thinking of a mid-grey suit, maybe pick & pick or herringbone. I'd also like to get one more suit for more casual purposes, mostly social, but ideally still wearable at work on a 'dress down' Friday for example. Here I was thinking of maybe a Prince of Wales check in mid-grey, or perhaps a dark blue/light navy linen suit. Any thoughts?

I'd then want to get a couple of sport coats to go along with the blazer, for weekend or evening use only. I was thinking of something in a light-grey, and maybe a mid-blue - any recommendations for this also? Thanks in advance.

[davidhuh]

Dear Cosmic,

perhaps, at this point, add
- mid grey worsted (I see it already on your list)
- blue birds eye worsted
- a pin stripe

And go for flannel, linen & some tweed in between

You have to figure out what speaks to you and your environment. For dressing down, wear grey trousers with the blue coat or a turtle neck instead of shirt & tie...

cheers, david

[Concordia]

Everything you plan sounds most sensible. Were you looking for specific cloth recommendations? Because your tailor might be the best source there, depending on what he carries.

Pick & pick or herringbone in grey (more charcoal than mid, for London, I think) are very classic. A solid worsted flannel can easily be persuaded to be dressed up or down. Minnis 12oz are very useful in that department, if less sexy than Fox, Smiths, or some of the other woollen flannel sources. If you are willing to go heavy weight, Fox now has the London Lounge series. There is at least one very dark grey POW that might suit your needs very well, at least in the colder months.

[emc894]

I would get a mid or oxford grey flannel. It is more casual than worsted but you can still wear it to work and it is very elegant, comfortable and adaptable.

[Pins&Needles]

My advice would be to go for a medium to charcoal grey flannel. Firstly, go for a weight that is going to hold up, so possibly a 13oz from Smith Woolens. I recommend a woollen flannel as I fear worsted flannel may be too close to the charcoal suit you mentioned above. A woollen flannel has depth, warmth and texture that generates a soft effortless feel. The reason I suggest a 13oz is so that you can also use the trouser to go with sports coats and blazers, expanding your wardrobe, adding versatility.

If you are wanting little more kick then give a light grey or medium blue Birdseye a try. Beautiful in a double breasted. It has just enough going on to be interesting up close but gives the appearance of a plain from a distance.

I guess it's about preference really, if I was in your position I would be looking at light weight tweeds with pretty yet understated patterns, possibly the Lamlana from W.Bill or the Moonbeam from Harrison's. These bunches contain some really beautiful designs. Linens work well too, depending on the time of year you may want to go for a fully unlined jacket, super light and perfect for those hot London summers.

Regards

Karl Matthews