Holland and Sherry "Nevada"

[oscarsfan]

Hello,

Any experiences with this fabric for the hot and humid tropics. There is a post of a member getting a suit made but I am unable to find the link to the photographs. Can anyone please help?

It comes in a french blue and a dark midnight blue. Any chance the midnight blue is dark enough for a dinner suit? Will have to use the black grosgrain. Am comparing white voile vs white linen-cotton for the heat performance. DB with skeleton lining is the way to go. Cummerbunds are hot - and not in the good sense.


Thank you.

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[hectorm]

Am comparing white voile vs white linen-cotton for the heat performance.

I wish you luck in finding the right voile for the shirt. I've had a not so great experience with the cloth. Too sheer for a dark dinner jacket and it doesn't feel that soft on the skin either. Linen shirts have been by far the best performers "in the tropics".

[oscarsfan]

Am comparing white voile vs white linen-cotton for the heat performance.

I wish you luck in finding the right voile for the shirt. I've had a not so great experience with the cloth. Too sheer for a dark dinner jacket and it doesn't feel that soft on the skin either. Linen shirts have been by far the best performers "in the tropics".

Thank you.

Have found some voile in dark colours which compensates for its sheerness. I have a few vintage voile shirts (probably from 70s) in a nice gold, which is not worn as often as it was expected to be. The colour is one factor, have paired with my white linen trousers and it worked well.

Was hoping for somefeedback about the Nevada. Had intended to make a dinner suit either from the black mersolair type (linen + wool/linen) or the black crispaire fabrics. However, both were lost in transit from the UK.

Last night at a wedding dinner, I wore a dark navy suit made from a cotton - linen - wool blend. Some Italian fabric I had picked up half a decade ago or more. It is considerably cooler than my porous weave wool - mohair with the skeleton lining. Wish I had more of this fabric.

On Saturday, I pick up a dark blue cotton suit. The fabric is a 2ply winter shirting fabric but so far the suit looks great. Sadly my cashmeres and tweeds are languishing.

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[Man at C&A]

I purchased a length of Nevada in tan from eBay with the intention of having an unlined db sports coat made up whilst visiting Hong Kong. I found it to be too see-through for this purpose. The length is now sitting in my wifes dress making pile waiting for an application.

[Scot]

I purchased a length of Nevada in tan from eBay with the intention of having an unlined db sports coat made up whilst visiting Hong Kong. I found it to be too see-through for this purpose. The length is now sitting in my wifes dress making pile waiting for an application.

A little off-topic but I have found the unlined DB to be a disappointing method of achieving a cooler wearing coat. As Will has written in his blog recently, the need to have the front of the jacket self-lined leaves one, with the DB, effectively covered in the overlap area by four layers of cloth. The unlined back doesn't really compensate, even with an open weave cloth. The other effect is that the front of the coat is much heavier than the back, resulting in a curiously unbalanced feel, especially if a chest canvas is employed. I have one DB blazer made from finmeresco like this and I won't be trying it again.

[davidhuh]

A little off-topic but I have found the unlined DB to be a disappointing method of achieving a cooler wearing coat.

Dear Scot,

if "cool wearing" is the first priority, it means SB and probably linen - this seems rather obvious. This has not stopped me from commissioning DBs in summer cloth with reduced lining.

The other effect is that the front of the coat is much heavier than the back, resulting in a curiously unbalanced feel, especially if a chest canvas is employed. I have one DB blazer made from finmeresco like this and I won't be trying it again.

Hm, what kind of canvas has been used? I don't see any imbalance in my two recent commissions. Very thin canvas was used, the cloth is the Brisa PoW and a Minnis Rangoon. I am so happy about the Brisa that I also ordered the grey chalk stripe - which will be made up as a DB, too.

cheers, David

[Costi]

The fronts of the DB do not HAVE to be lined in cloth, normal lining can be used just as well. Depending on porousness of cloth and type of lining, either one or the other may be recommended.
I see no front/back imbalance on my unlined DB coats, either.
A DB will run warmer than a SB anyway, so if one decides to choose this cut for a summer suit, the unlined back surely cannot make matters any worse - it's just as useful as on a SB coat, because the back is no different, only the front is. However, SB or DB, the difference is only noticeable if the cloth really is breathable - if it's a super 000's with a fine yarn in a tight weave, it really makes no difference at all, one may just as well have it lined in plastic film.
The summer DB is really an English-type-of-summer choice, not an option in hot climates.

[Despos]

Two things about this cloth no one has mentioned. The books are withdrawn so you have to find stock somewhere beyond H&S and the cloth is 50% wool and 50% polyester. This may not be as cool as all wool.

[alden]

The fronts of the DB do not HAVE to be lined in cloth, normal lining can be used just as well. Depending on porousness of cloth and type of lining, either one or the other may be recommended.
I see no front/back imbalance on my unlined DB coats, either.
A DB will run warmer than a SB anyway, so if one decides to choose this cut for a summer suit, the unlined back surely cannot make matters any worse - it's just as useful as on a SB coat, because the back is no different, only the front is. However, SB or DB, the difference is only noticeable if the cloth really is breathable - if it's a super 000's with a fine yarn in a tight weave, it really makes no difference at all, one may just as well have it lined in plastic film.
The summer DB is really an English-type-of-summer choice, not an option in hot climates.

Costi hit all the major points flawlessly.

In the LL Sartoria we make linen suits with lightweight erzamine lining, back unlined and virtually zero internals. The suits are featherlight and very comfortable in most summer situations except those of 45 degress C like we are experiencing now on the lovely island.
Linen shirts, shorts and boat shoes are the order of the day.

Cheers

[Man at C&A]

Two things about this cloth no one has mentioned. The books are withdrawn so you have to find stock somewhere beyond H&S and the cloth is 50% wool and 50% polyester. This may not be as cool as all wool.

it's a wool, cotton and linen blend. Having handled it I'd suggest the linen content is quite low. I wasn't impressed with it.

[Despos]

it's a wool, cotton and linen blend. Having handled it I'd suggest the linen content is quite low. I wasn't impressed with it.

That's not a cloth from the Nevada book. Nevada was a wool/poly blend. Just confirmed with H&S.

[dempsy444]

Interesting. What would be the benefit of blending wool with Pollyester? I always thought of Pollyester as a cheap synthetic cloth used in very low-end OTR suits, not bespoke.