Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor & Finished Summer Jacket

[rogiercreemers]

This looks like a wonderful coat, and the peak lapels intrigue me with this fabric. Could you perhaps post a picture when this coat is finished?

[kamil]

Giuseppe, thanks a million!

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

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Dear Kamil
Attached are the photo of second fitting . I will send you the picture of finish Jacket.
Warm regards
Pino

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

As promised the picture of the finish jacket thanks to Mr. mmkn 2 May 24 are on The londonlounge.
Thanks to all thoe who appreciate good work.

[coolal]

Just picked up my three piece suit from Richard today. Shoulders are essentially unpadded with a spalla camicia.

Here are some teaser pics. Forgive the crappy cell phone quality. I wasn't able to setup my camera and lights today.

I'll upload proper pics of how it fits and other details once I get everything setup this weekend.

Needless to say, I'm thrilled with the results!

[coolal]

One interesting detail I just discovered: shirt buttons behind the jacket fastening button. Perhaps this was their reaction to the fact that I've been pulling out my fastening buttons recently (on a few jackets). Has anyone else had this done on their jackets? My other guess is that it's there to distribute force so that the fastening button doesn't pull out and create a hole?

[Costi]

Nice work, coolal!
That's usually done on overcoats (the back button).

[DFR]

One interesting detail I just discovered: shirt buttons behind the jacket fastening button. Perhaps this was their reaction to the fact that I've been pulling out my fastening buttons recently (on a few jackets). Has anyone else had this done on their jackets? My other guess is that it's there to distribute force so that the fastening button doesn't pull out and create a hole?

Not unusual but more often found on overcoats. Adds strength. What on earth do you do to "pull out your buttons". I would have said 'impossible' but clearly not. Suggests over zealous pulling.

[coolal]

Nice work, coolal!
That's usually done on overcoats (the back button).

One interesting detail I just discovered: shirt buttons behind the jacket fastening button. Perhaps this was their reaction to the fact that I've been pulling out my fastening buttons recently (on a few jackets). Has anyone else had this done on their jackets? My other guess is that it's there to distribute force so that the fastening button doesn't pull out and create a hole?

Not unusual but more often found on overcoats. Adds strength. What on earth do you do to "pull out your buttons". I would have said 'impossible' but clearly not. Suggests over zealous pulling.

Thanks for the information you guys. Regarding the fastening button. The problem usually starts when I lend my jackets to a damsel in weather related distress. No good deed... I usually discover the fastening button stretched after that. All it takes then is a rather rowdy night out with friends, and I find a missing button the next morning.

[Costi]

Damsels with a weight issue?!

[coolal]

Damsels with a weight issue?!

Hah! It just occurred to me that my statement might be interpreted as such

Most of the women I know, for some reason, never use arms on jackets! I suppose it isn't warm enough. I generally drape the coat over them, and at some point, they button it, without using the arms. The effect is more like a straight jacket at that point, and the fastening button takes all the abuse

Trust me, there have been a few times where I sensed the pain my jacket was going through... but that's always weighed against the perks of being a gentleman...

[coolal]

Okay, so here are the "proper" pics!


Couple notes: The fabric is pretty damn light and drapes pretty poorly. As such, it was almost impossible to get a clean shot, even though the suit appears clean in the mirror. I suspect I tense up when waiting for the auto timer.


Upcoming tweaks: I think i'll have a bit of the fabric taken in behind my arm pits. Additionally, the pants can be cleaned up a tad. I've been working out (gaining muscle mass, losing fat) and it's been a bit of a moving target in terms of the best fit.


I'm 99% happy. Actually, quite thrilled! The real shortcoming of this suit is the fabric weight, lesson learned once and for all.


The next order I just started is with the RAF Blue PoW Glen Check Brisa from the London Lounge Cloth Club. I know that'll drape better, from past experience.

[davidhuh]

Dear Coolal,

the coat looks very good in my eyes. In particular, I like the shoulders very much. Generally, I prefer notch lapels on SB, but this is my taste. Be careful with tweaking behind your arm pits. You might need this cloth for movement. Discuss it with your tailor though. I have some "excess cloth" in all coats I am getting from my tailor, and if you look at soft tailored coats coming from Anderson & Sheppard or others, you will see this. People who don't like soft tailoring often point at this being a weakness - they are wrong in my opinion. I want a comfortable suit, not an armour.

I agree with you about the trousers. But wear your suit a bit before rushing into changes. What I would suggest you to try next time is two forward pleats instead of flat front. It is more comfortable and will give you a better line. Also, the left shoulder on your waistcoat might need some tweaking.

Lastly a comment about the cloth. You don't remember where it is coming from. I had a couple of things made up recently with such cloth, bought many years ago. The cloth (italian fresco) looked good, but the tailor was not very pleased and I am not so impressed either. Although it feels and looks nice, this is not cloth for tailoring but for MTM and RTW. It doesn't live, it doesn't wear in, has no personality. Lesson learned

cheers, David

[Costi]

I agree with David's comments. The extra cloth in the back may simply not go where it's needed because it's light, thus the wrinkles.
I think fuller trousers would be a good idea. If you don't like pleats, try front darts: this allows for a fuller leg, while still hugging the waist tight enough. They look like flat fronts.
A little tight over the bum, too, aren't they? I like the height!
Besides adjusting those shoulder wrinkles on the waistcoat, I also think you could try a shorter one (next time). Your trousers are high enough that the waistband will still stay covered.
I also think you might consider extending the shoulders of the jacket a bit on your next commission.
Nice tie!

[coolal]

Dear Coolal,

the coat looks very good in my eyes. In particular, I like the shoulders very much. Generally, I prefer notch lapels on SB, but this is my taste. Be careful with tweaking behind your arm pits. You might need this cloth for movement. Discuss it with your tailor though. I have some "excess cloth" in all coats I am getting from my tailor, and if you look at soft tailored coats coming from Anderson & Sheppard or others, you will see this. People who don't like soft tailoring often point at this being a weakness - they are wrong in my opinion. I want a comfortable suit, not an armour.

I agree with you about the trousers. But wear your suit a bit before rushing into changes. What I would suggest you to try next time is two forward pleats instead of flat front. It is more comfortable and will give you a better line. Also, the left shoulder on your waistcoat might need some tweaking.

Lastly a comment about the cloth. You don't remember where it is coming from. I had a couple of things made up recently with such cloth, bought many years ago. The cloth (italian fresco) looked good, but the tailor was not very pleased and I am not so impressed either. Although it feels and looks nice, this is not cloth for tailoring but for MTM and RTW. It doesn't live, it doesn't wear in, has no personality. Lesson learned

cheers, David

Thanks for all your comments David. I found a picture from yesterday that illustrates you and Costi's point about needing that extra cloth for mobility. I will be sure to wear the trousers a bit before returning for tweaks. They are certainly very comfortable, though I'm still getting used to the high waist. As for the cloth, I should have known better after all my time on the London Lounge, lesson finally learned!

I agree with David's comments. The extra cloth in the back may simply not go where it's needed because it's light, thus the wrinkles.
I think fuller trousers would be a good idea. If you don't like pleats, try front darts: this allows for a fuller leg, while still hugging the waist tight enough. They look like flat fronts.
A little tight over the bum, too, aren't they? I like the height!
Besides adjusting those shoulder wrinkles on the waistcoat, I also think you could try a shorter one (next time). Your trousers are high enough that the waistband will still stay covered.
I also think you might consider extending the shoulders of the jacket a bit on your next commission.
Nice tie!

Thanks again Costi. Sage advice!

I'm still trying to figure out how I'll get my pants made for the next order (RAF PoW Check Brisa). Pleats are in consideration, but I'll ask Richard about front darts as well. I'll also take into consideration your points about the waistcoat.

Here's the clean shot from yesterday. Looks like the bunching of fabric, in back, magically went away for this one shot: