Penultimate fitting, with pictures

[marburyvmadison]

Pardon the hiatus, have been travelling, and hence, haven't come on for a bit.

Grabbed a couple of photos of the suit during the penultimate fitting, so do critique the fit of the suit. The pictures are not very good, but I'll try get clearer ones some time soon.

This is a two button in H Lesser's 9oz with a fish-tail trousers. Somewhat concerned about the creases on the trousers but that's possibly due in part to the fact that I haven't got my braces on. Also am aware that the coat sleeves need to be repitched.

Made a few bespoke shirts and have a grey suit in the works. Will upload the pictures soon.

[angelo]

The jacket seems too short.In my opinion it should be one or two centimeters longer.

Angelo

[hectorm]

Marburyvmadison,
you are a brave man putting yourself up for the criticism of the LL sharks.
Since you asked for it, I would say:
Great cut and fit on the shoulders and sleeves (may be I would shorten the latter 1 cm).
I agree with Angelo on the length of the jacket. You need a bit more of coverage up front. 2 cm perhaps.
IMO the trousers are too narrow (particularly from the knee down) and have no drape. Maybe you like this as part of the slim cut.
Also, those shoes are too heavy for your silhouette and for a 9 oz cloth.

[marburyvmadison]

I personally believe that criticism is crucial in improvement.

I'm actually 1.6m so I'm somewhat concerned that a long jacket will cause my legs to look shorter than they already are. Do you think that will be a problem at all?

I've been away, and out of civilization -- camps and such in the wilderness -- for the past month so those shoes were beaters.

[cathach]

Hello marburymmadison,

Like the other posters I applaud your courage in putting yourself at the mercy of the LL! I'd say that the length of the jacket and narrowing of the trousers may suit your silhouette and height best. But it will be very hard to see how the trousers will end up unless you wear them with the braces they're designed for. Apart from that all I can suggest is you mention any concerns with your tailor and see what he says to you in his wisdom.

[Costi]

That coat has a nice shape and I like the line of the lapels and front quarters. It IS a shorter coat, but I am becoming partial to shorter coats - not the ridiculous fashion forward type, that look inherited from a younger town cousin, but as short as they can get while maintaining a decent look. Therefore, while it does look shorter than we are used to seeing, I am not sure it is necessarily TOO short judging the proportions on marburyvmadison's body. In fact, I suspect that if we could see him in a coat that is 2 cm longer than this one, we might say "yes, the coat looks about the right length now, but for some reason the whole thing looked better before...". There is a picture of the young Duke of Windsor in the twenties where he wears a coat very similar to this in length and the proportions look good. Whatever is still to be adjusted on your coat, m. (sleeve pitch, sleeve length), is the domain of details, the coat looks fine to me.
The trousers are another story. The pictures are too dark to see well, but I think hectorm's diagnostic is correct. Little to be done now, except perhaps a second pair of trousers according to new prescriptions (that would not harm anyone, actually, and you could judge the difference in comfort and look by yourself). The prescription would be two forward pleats and enough (but not too much) fullness in the upper part (it looks like there is some fullness, but I don't understand where it goes), and a GRADUAL and CONTINUOUS taper towards the ankle, where the legs should still end with some width to cover a bit of the shoe length. If you had the trousers made just a little wider at the bottom than they are now (but increasing the top in proportion, if needed, so you can get the overall taper!), the legs could also be a little longer and sit nicely on the shoe vamp without breaking, even though perhaps "drape" is a little hard to achieve with 9 oz.

[Screaminmarlon]

I agree with Costi on this coat's lenght.

[marburyvmadison]

Thank you very much for your comments.

I will be sure to work with my tailor and have a second pair of trousers cut differently.

Have uploaded pictures of a second coat, with a slightly longer length, so perhaps, one can compare and consider whether a longer, or shorter length would be more suitable for someone of my proportions. The pants is also slightly larger, and I have the option of the gradual taper or to leave the fullness as it is.

Also, is there anything I should inform my tailor in the subsequent fitting?

It's a one button coat in 9 oz Lesser.

[Costi]

m., take a look at this: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... f=32&t=208

The coat looks fine to me at this stage, but the pants are still in trouble: no line. Show your tailor some pictures and help him understand what you're after. Even Windsor's trousers in the photo above (the linked post) are a good example: they are almost as narrow as yours at the cuff and sit well above the shoe, but they have line and gradual taper and enough fullness that allows to achieve that. What do you think?

[Costi]

this is also worth keeping in mind, on page 4 of the same thread: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =30#p16740

[marburyvmadison]

Thanks Costi. When you refer to 'the line'. Do you mean the leg line? That is the side of the pants (for instance, the part of the pants where the satin ribbon goes on the side of the pants for a dinner suit)?

And that it should be smooth and uncreased, as opposed to the excessive creasing that is apparent in the pictures?

[Screaminmarlon]

Thanks Costi. I remember that thread helped me appreciate the cut of a new taylor (mind you, he's in his late sixties at the time), who cut the coat of the first two suits in a similar lenght.
With time maybe we added a touch more lenght, but nonetheless I am now more at ease with shorter coats.
As for the trousers, maybe with fuller hips they should fall without the line being distracted here and there, but I guess there's more to fix
Saluti
M.

[Costi]

Thanks Costi. When you refer to 'the line'. Do you mean the leg line? That is the side of the pants (for instance, the part of the pants where the satin ribbon goes on the side of the pants for a dinner suit)?

And that it should be smooth and uncreased, as opposed to the excessive creasing that is apparent in the pictures?

m., by line I mean the shape of the trousers, starting from the waistband, through the hips, down the calves and to the ankles. The line the can be straight, tapered etc. It is about the general visual effect, not about the leg seam. The line should be continuous, pleasing to the eye, balanced, shaping your lower body in a nice way. The creasing is also an effect of the lack of line.
Take a look at Windsor's trousers in the post I linked - those have line. They shape the legs.

[Concordia]

Whom did you end up choosing?

[alden]

MVM

The coat's length is fine. Follow Costi's advice on the trousers. I would like to see a slightly wider shoulder.

Cheers