dempsy444 wrote:Very nice post Coolal. That is the first illustration where I could clearly see what tailors mean when they say posture can affect how a suit appears to fit. I think the jacket looks comfortable and sharp. Good choice on details.
However, it's interesting to see how the tailors own clothes don't seem to fit at all. I guess he just wants to be comfortable.
Thanks dempsy444, I'm glad you appreciate the details and the illustration of posture. It was a surprise, when I opened up the photos, to see the difference posture makes.
Giuseppe Mancuso wrote:Non capisco le critiche fatti di alcuni , riguardo particolari a giacca finita, e confrontarla con altri.
Ignorano il fatto che a quel prezzo nessuna compagnia le da quel servizio.
La prima prova ( cosa che grante firme non fanno) gia questo le da il diritto di definirsi un abito su misura,
Su misura non e' seguire style , ma e' fare il vestito rispettando : misure, conformazione e non meno importante cio che il cliente vuole , esempio la forma dei petti ( che ad altri piacciano o no non e' importante.)
Chi paga molto di piu' del signore non ha la possibilita" di scelta : nei lapel , front, collar gorge . E spesso dovuto all'assenza della prima prova ad abito finito , ricevono la giacca : 2'' grante davanti , maniche 1" lunghi o corti ,
La figura del signore qualora volesse seguire style ,puo' benissimo vestire l"abito gia fatto. Ma il signore ha i suoi gusti vuole essere differente quind fa bene ad antare dal sarto.
Costi wrote:I don't understand the critique of some regarding the details of the finished jacket and comparing it to others. They should know the fact that no tailoring house offers this level of service at this price point.
The first fitting (which some large houses skip) already gives it the right to be called bespoke.
Bespoke does not equal following style, but making the clothes according to: measurements, physical traits and, not least important, what the client desires, for instance the shape of the lapels (whether others like them or not is irrelevant).
Some who pay a lot more than the gentleman in question have no possibility to choose: the lapels, front, collar gorge. It is often due to the lack of the first fitting and then they receive the finished coat 2" too long in front, sleeves 1" too long or too short etc.
The physique of the gentleman allows him to go for RTW if he wanted to follow style. But he has his tastes and wants to look different, so he does well to go to a tailor.
Costi, thank you for translating Signor Mancuso's comments! Google translate was simply not up to the task. I really appreciated reading his thoughts on the details I'm experimenting with. Of course, I agree wholeheartedly with his view on bespoke not being limited to making clothing according to measurements, physical traits, and the house styles that sometimes override stylistic input. However, I also understand that bringing a lapel shaper to some (most?) bespoke tailors could be somewhat offensive. Nevertheless, it's refreshing to hear that there are other bespoke tailors, open to input on every level, like I'm used to.