Tom Baker, Soho — Impressions — or Other Suggestions?

[DrSocks]

Has anybody had anything made by (Sir) Tom Baker? If so, general impressions on fit/finish, how much it resembled your ideas, how accommodating he is, prices and other thoughts would be much appreciated.

I'm considering my first bespoke suit and had been (possibly still) considering Richard Anderson, but I passed Mr Baker's shop on my way home from work a few months ago and it piqued my interest. The stuff on his website is interesting — obviously not typical business — but delightfully eccentric, which appeals greatly. I have yet to venture into his shop and talk to him; it's simultaneously inviting and intimidating. And I'm very shy, so feel unwilling until I know more (of which, there appears to be little otherwise around on the internet).

Thank you!

[hectorm]

Welcome to the LL, DrSocks.
Some consideration: most likely Sir Tom Baker will not be involved in any cutting or tailoring of your suit if you opt for his shop. Currently he´s mainly involved with general styling. Maybe this is exactly what you want as you were attracted to the samples in the website. Keep in mind that despite all those "eccentric" garments, most of the business is still (not show) business suits.
If you opt for Richard Anderson, most likely you´ll get "Young Richard" himself from the start to the finish (make an appointment making sure he´s not touring abroad). I think this could be a great idea for your first bespoke experience being shy as you say you are (assuming you know you like his "house style").
Another good option for you could be Steed on SR, very accommodating indeed and pleasant to deal with.

[Costi]

But if you feel shy to even step into his shop, how will you gather the aplomb to sport his flamboyant creations?
Perhaps you are not as shy as you think...

[hectorm]

See how inviting Tom Baker's shop on D'Arblay Street looks for a shy person.
Is the skull still on it?

[DrSocks]

Gentlemen, thank you for the welcome.

I should qualify that by shy I really mean: completely out of my depth. Stepping into their respective shops I fear I may feel some obligation or compulsion to make a commission quickly, simply so as not to appear to be wasting their time, regardless of what I think and then potentially rescind anyway — or make a very expensive mistake indeed.

Hectorm, yes the skull is still above the shop front, but that is not a problem. I do understand that the vast majority of Tom Baker's work will be more typical business or lounge suits, not the more ostentatious stuff in his shop window or on his site. But surely when one opts for Bespoke, like with certain brands, one is buying into something more than just their tailoring? On the 'Row for instance it's history, tradition and depending on the house, a certain cut. But, they also have a reputation to protect. Boateng and James are definitely not on though: they're a little bit "purple" for my tastes. Nonetheless, if TB isn't going to cut my pattern/cloth or do any of the tailoring depending on his expertise, I may well opt for a different house anyway.

The thing about SR is that I find it a little more intimidating than Soho/general off-Row tailors, as well as their prices maybe being a little prohibitive. My father was a long-time SR customer and it always fascinated me — everybody front of house impeccably dressed — but wondering what was going on in the back. So I have some affinity with it, though it's still quite imposing.

However, I will, I think work up the courage to visit Richard Anderson (I do like the Huntsman cut whether it suits me or not), as well as Steed next time I'm near Piccadilly.

Anyway, apologies for what appears to be a rather lengthy post.

[hectorm]

Stepping into their respective shops I fear I may feel some obligation or compulsion to make a commission quickly, simply so as not to appear to be wasting their time, regardless of what I think and then potentially rescind anyway — or make a very expensive mistake indeed.

Dear DrSocks,
believe me when I tell you that I know exactly how that feels. Most of the shops on Savile Row (and tailors shops in general) are not ideal places for going shopping or browsing. It takes a while -maybe years-to feel comfortable with just dropping by, checking the cloths, chatting with the sales people, the proprietor or the tailors (if one´s accepted beyond the front room), and leaving without buying. I find some shops are easier to "explore" than others if you´re not an established client, particularly those that are bigger or have RTW (Gieves & Hawkes, for instance).
But let me also tell you that there are a few antidotes against that uneasy feeling and you, right now, are trying one of them: doing your homework before you step in for your first bespoke suit. Well done.
Know your stuff before hand. Be aware of the bespoke process. Learn about house styles. Have an idea about prices and make a budget decision you feel very comfortable with. Determine when and where you´ll be wearing the suit (they will help you at the store to identify the perfect cloth and the specifics of the design). Get some references if possible (maybe the tailors who have your father´s patterns?). Reduce your candidates to 2 o 3 at the most. Test the waters for friendliness with a telephone call regarding appointments (this always tells you a lot). And finally, when you are ready to take the plunge: wear your best fitting shirt .

[DrSocks]

Quite Possibly, I'm getting very much ahead of myself.

I digress...Stopped by Tom Baker and had a very nice conversation, as well as being given some advice, such as: ensure that I research as many houses as possible (which seems obvious) before settling, rather than being too worried about feeling any compulsion to commission. His shop, whilst patently not traditional, felt comfortable and relaxing when inside. I'm thinking about going again soon so as to have a look through a selection of the cloths he uses and hopefully have a closer look as some samples of his more usual/less ostentatious tailoring. However, I do believe he is involved in cutting, although I shall clarify on the next visit.

At present I intend to visit Steed (at your advice hectorm), Richard Anderson and Chris Kerr. But if anybody can make any other suggestions I would be grateful.

Understandably, I'd like to cultivate a good relationship with my prospective tailor, given that one could be spending an awful lot of time with them in somewhat intimate environs; therefore changing could feel somewhat unsettling. To patronise just one or two with loyal custom if I can get it right.

Incidentally, I had a lovely shirt made by Russell and Hodge late last year. They don't appear to have had a good press here, but in all honesty, I'm terribly pleased with the work they did for me — nice, clean, simple. Kerry seemed all-too-ready to bend-over-backwards to accommodate what I wanted without up-selling me to bespoke. Again, it seems obvious, but struck me as unusual.

Best Regards.

[alden]

Dr Socks

You have had some good advice about choosing a bespoke tailor. I think the most important part of the puzzle is knowing yourself....and what it is that you want. That is the only way you will recognize your own style and see who can make it for you. So there is a bit of homework to do before you step into a shop. And once that work is done everything will be natural and easy for you.

Its a bit like choosing a puppy. You see six or seven pups in a litter playing around. One or two of them will come around to give you a sniff then go back to play with their mates. Finally, there will be one brave soul who will come tug on your trouser cuff and the sparkle in his eye will say, "what are we waiting for, let's go home!"

Cheers

[DrSocks]

Thank you Alden.

Yes I do indeed have some excellent advice to consider.

Surprisingly, I have a very good idea of what I like and generally find comfortable — the thing I'm not sure about, is whether it is genuinely suitable for my purposes, frame, whether it looks good or not — then again, my potential cutter will be better placed to advise me on that. The only must, given my profession, is to have armholes cut as high as possible. And also, because I like the freedom of momement it offers in general.

Quickly gaining confidence. I popped by Connock and Lockie as well as Sims and MacDonald. The latter I simply didn't like what was in their window, and whilst it is perhaps a touch presumptuous, I don't think a chat with them would have done much to convince me of anything. Mr Craig at C&L however, was very charming and his two assistants likewise — very informative — only too happy to wax lyrical about cloth, cuts, his business and clients. After leaving, my wife made one rather unpleasant but nonetheless relevant observation: as much as I'd like to offer him some custom, sadly he can't continue for much longer, or worse, won't be around.

I'm a young(ish) chap just short of making consultancy. I fully intend to have a long relationship with my tailor, and once I start my bespoke habit, I'd rather avoid finding twenty years into the future, the whole process starting all over again.

As such I have begun making lists of the younger tailors/houses around and will probably start making calls, in some attempt to ensure my wish.

[alden]

Doc

Whatever you do, don't be in a hurry to buy stuff, be in a hurry to learn stuff.

Have a couple true bespoke shirts made from two different makers. Go through the process from A to Z a few times. It will help you learn how to be a good bespeaker. If you make some mistakes, it won't have cost you an arm and a leg. And you will need good shirts anyway.

And I would suggest you keep your list of young tailors aside for the moment. Get yourself under the wing of the oldest and crankiest tailor you can find. Work with him and soak in all his knowledge. Listen to him and be his apprentice as much as his customer. He will give you the tools to command.

Cheers

[Sky Blue Peter]

I have had a few commissions with Mr Craig at C+L over the last few years, and he is indeed charming, eccentric, extremely knowlegeable.. and really rather ancient. He has only done three days a week at the shop for some time now, and I understand he is in the process of handing over to Mr Nagashima. They have never been the speediest, and are clearly more interested in the more offbeat commissions, so if you are just looking for a straightforward business suit I would perhaps look elsewhere.
But I would suggest you don't rule him out completely - I think it is right to put some faith in the established houses that they will ensure that their standards are maintained as the baton is passed down the generations. My last commission was with Davies & Son and was cut by Mr Mathews who (I hope he will forgive me) looks about fourteen. Nevertheless it was apparent that the senior guys, including Mr Bennett, were keeping a close eye on things and the result was a really excellent piece of work. On each visit whoever was in would wander out from the back for a chat, and with a reassuringly beady eye on the fitting!
So whilst the relationship with the person currently wielding the scissors is important, it is not the be-all and end-all. If you are hoping to establish a relationship with a house to be measured in decades, bear in mind that circumstance change, people move on, and your tastes and requirements will develop and change. So pick a house whose style you broadly like, and where you feel at ease on their premises - and have faith!

[cathach]

Thank you Alden.
Mr Craig at C&L however, was very charming and his two assistants likewise — very informative — only too happy to wax lyrical about cloth, cuts, his business and clients. After leaving, my wife made one rather unpleasant but nonetheless relevant observation: as much as I'd like to offer him some custom, sadly he can't continue for much longer, or worse, won't be around.

If you'll forgive a penchant for sayings: "The old dog for the long road and the pup for the boreens". I'm a young man myself and whether its in terms of mannerisms, viewpoint or experience I'd have to say that its the connection you have with the cutter and tailor that matters, no matter the age. If you're interested in mod styles, new edwardian etc. there's every chance he cut such a suit at the time or will have the wealth of experience to guide you towards better style choices for your frame for example.

Give Mr. Craig a lash, you should be wearing the suit twenty years from now with any luck!

[bquinn]

I've also used Connock and Lockie, and am very pleased with the result. They're slow, in part because Mr. Craig is something of a perfectionist. Only to be expected, I suppose, since he trained under Colin Hammick at Huntsman. I agree that they do tend towards more offbeat commissions, but also make lovely business suits.

Needless to say, I highly recommend them.

[Mark Seitelman]

. . .

Mr Craig at C&L however, was very charming and his two assistants likewise — very informative — only too happy to wax lyrical about cloth, cuts, his business and clients. After leaving, my wife made one rather unpleasant but nonetheless relevant observation: as much as I'd like to offer him some custom, sadly he can't continue for much longer, or worse, won't be around.

I'm a young(ish) chap just short of making consultancy. I fully intend to have a long relationship with my tailor, and once I start my bespoke habit, I'd rather avoid finding twenty years into the future, the whole process starting all over again.

As such I have begun making lists of the younger tailors/houses around and will probably start making calls, in some attempt to ensure my wish.

I think that you should not write-off an older tailor.

It is a bit premature to think in terms of signing-on with a younger tailor that you will have for "life". It is only a suit. Situations change as well as attitudes and life style. You may hit it big in the future, and you may only want a famous name from the Row. Or you may discard the suit for daily wear. I have seen men sell their entire wardrobes. Or you may have a change in attitude as my client had. He used to buy bespoke Morty Sills and Lobb shoes. Suddenly, he tired of them and gave them away. Now he wears RTW Paul Stuart.

Generally, old tailors get better with age. The old school British tailors started training at 16. As my tailor told me, many tailors calling themselves "bespoke" tailors are not real bespoke tailors from the old fashioned viewpoint. Most are really MTM ones.

As Mr. Alden writes you can learn much from an older tailor.

Also keep in mind that some older tailors have trained their assistants to take-over down the road. Also, some old tailors love their work and retire only at a very advanced age.

Good luck.

[DrSocks]

Can't disagree with you all as it would be difficult to argue that you aren't correct. You may well have put this down to impetuous youth. I probably have.

It isn't so much the age in terms of their ability or necessarily that they won't be around for too long. It is to some end, selfishness on my part: so often in my line of work one deals with people and become attached to them in some way — more than just passing acquaintance — friends even, and it's devastating when they are no longer around because in some cases they eventually get better and leave or in others, the inevitable. Sadly, it's often unavoidable.

I know I can learn an awful lot from the much older tailors, and as such I will probably make a couple of one-off commissions when the time is right. One of the problems for me is that I like Mr Craig a great deal and I very much like what they do. It will be a sad day when he finally has to put down his shears. For that reason, it's better for my sanity if I don't build any potentially long-standing custom with him. Moreover, when I have done my research, they will quite possibly be one of my top three or four choices anyway.

Besides, thus far Anderson, Steed & Kerr are the youngest on my list. At the moment, I am probably aiming for people in their 50s who have been around for a while. Although, after the advice here I am revising my views; therefore, not excluding anybody as of yet. Further to that, I have yet to fix on a budget, which depends on life's usual little financial hang-ups.

Mark: Thanks, I discovered that yesterday when making one or two calls. When I really questioned them about their process, what type of canvasses they use and how they're fixed, my conclusions were: likely to be MTM. So they are being avoided.