What are the most urbane cloths for citified odd jackets? The most lightweight and refined, while keeping it real? Saxony? Light cheviots? Lambswool? Shetlands? Superfleece?..etc?
What are your favourite cloths, and weights?....thanks..
Best cloths for tailoring Rus in Urbe?
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rogiercreemers
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Personally, I'm quite partial to the look of Harrison Thornproof. I just received my first odd coat in it last month and it works lovely.
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Simon A
The John Hardy Lambswool collection has some attractive patterns, and a good hand.
The LL Shetlands are a great option, with a very soft hand but still quite resilient for jackets.
The LL Shetlands are a great option, with a very soft hand but still quite resilient for jackets.
Definitely, Superfleece.Rowly wrote:What are the most urbane cloths for citified odd jackets? The most lightweight and refined, while keeping it real? Saxony? Light cheviots? Lambswool? Shetlands? Superfleece?..
Lambswool is nice but will it last? The Superfleece I have seen ( only small samples) looks refined but also durable, with a delicate crisp hand. Am I right in thinking it to be a 13oz? Is there any fine tweed in this weight with a refined hand?..thanks...
Rowly wrote: 13oz? Is there any fine tweed in this weight with a refined hand?..thanks...
I´m no expert but all tweed I have seen is heavier than that. Starting at 13.5oz or more.
There are Porter & Harding lighter cloths in tweed patterns but worsted finish (Glorious Twelfth) or similar John Hardy (Alsport) that could play the part of real tweed in Rus in Urbe. Tweedy look but lighter and softer in texture. But I guess you already know this.
Yes, thanks...I already have some Worsted Alsport suits. But I would like to get some odd jackets. I would like something that is more tweedy but still refined..I suppose the next stage up. I would consider anything between 13oz and 16 or 17 oz..but wouldn't want much heavier, due to the rougher more rustic hand. I will keep looking!... and thanks..
Rowly, in that range the world is yours!Rowly wrote: I would like something that is more tweedy but still refined..I suppose the next stage up. I would consider anything between 13oz and 16 or 17 oz..but wouldn't want much heavier, due to the rougher more rustic hand. I will keep looking!... and thanks..
One of the lightest "real" tweeds that I have found, and in beautiful patterns, is the Porter & Harding 15oz Glenroyal (soft finish). I own a classic bright blue herringbone jacket in that cloth. Simply wonderful work horse that would recommend to anyone. Also check the Dumbarton pattern (which I have on my wish list) and see if that's your call.
Good luck.
Excellent advice, thanks. I see you use Bookster's site for cloth references. I like your choice. I have considered the ones they refer to as Kentchurch...and Ayre (which, I think, is the one on A&S's website). There is also DUDDINGSTON TWEED
Glenhunt Homespun 500 grams, which I think is a Russell check and might look smart. I also have my eye on (albeit a bit heavier) a black and grey gunclub with faint yellow windowpane from Lovat's Kirkton book. I assume any of these should wear well over time justifying the bespoke investment...thanks again....!
Glenhunt Homespun 500 grams, which I think is a Russell check and might look smart. I also have my eye on (albeit a bit heavier) a black and grey gunclub with faint yellow windowpane from Lovat's Kirkton book. I assume any of these should wear well over time justifying the bespoke investment...thanks again....!
Rowly,
I rest humbled by your keen eye. I checked the shooting jacket at A&S´s website and, alas, it´s the Ayre indeed.
After seeing the results of what A&S can do with the placement and matching of that pattern, I shudder at the thought of what they could do with all the grids of the Dumbarton.
IMO the Ayre looks so much luminous than the Kentchurch, but I would understand if you didn´t like the idea of sporting "the A&S´s site" jacket, which would be very recognizable at this point.
I got curious about the other tweeds you mentioned and I´m going to check them out.
And yes, it was the Bookster´s site I used for reference.
I rest humbled by your keen eye. I checked the shooting jacket at A&S´s website and, alas, it´s the Ayre indeed.
After seeing the results of what A&S can do with the placement and matching of that pattern, I shudder at the thought of what they could do with all the grids of the Dumbarton.
IMO the Ayre looks so much luminous than the Kentchurch, but I would understand if you didn´t like the idea of sporting "the A&S´s site" jacket, which would be very recognizable at this point.
I got curious about the other tweeds you mentioned and I´m going to check them out.
And yes, it was the Bookster´s site I used for reference.
hectorm,
If it's the same tweed as used by A&S..that would not put me off, I see this as a help in order to visualize how the jacket might turn out. I try to do this as much as possible, because it's so easy to get it wrong. I have seen a Gieves jacket on ebay that resembles the tweed you like..if it's not the same...it would be close enough to give you a good feel for how it will look made up. These exercises, I find, reduce the risk of disappointment and make your bespoke endeavours more pleasurable.....I hope this helps...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230685284133? ... 1423.l2649
If it's the same tweed as used by A&S..that would not put me off, I see this as a help in order to visualize how the jacket might turn out. I try to do this as much as possible, because it's so easy to get it wrong. I have seen a Gieves jacket on ebay that resembles the tweed you like..if it's not the same...it would be close enough to give you a good feel for how it will look made up. These exercises, I find, reduce the risk of disappointment and make your bespoke endeavours more pleasurable.....I hope this helps...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230685284133? ... 1423.l2649
This is really helpful, Rowly. Thank you.
I had my eyes on the Dumbarton as a possibility for the near future but after seeing it in a finished jacket I´m no longer so sure. It´s very handsome in the patch, but a bit overwhelming in the garment.
Cheers.
I had my eyes on the Dumbarton as a possibility for the near future but after seeing it in a finished jacket I´m no longer so sure. It´s very handsome in the patch, but a bit overwhelming in the garment.
Cheers.
Hectorum,
I found out by bitter experience to be careful selecting from swatches alone. The colours will be different...even the size of the checks will look a different scale on the finished piece. What I have tried to do is put together a collection of jackets with different size checks, windowpanes etc...even a scarf, or old cap might do the trick. I have an old Harris tweed houndstooth jacket I bought in a thrift shop purely to use as a template to check swatches against to make sure the scale is what I want. The Glenhunt check on Bookster's site is shown made up in their gallery. I'm sure this is the colour I want. Crombie have an overcoat which I think is the same cloth...so, I intend checking the swatch against the crombie, when I get a chance....then, I will know for sure a jacket in it will suit me...risk removed ! Happy days! I am developing a keen eye this way, along with patience...and it adds to the overall enjoyment of bespoke tailoring, as a hobby....Glad to be of service...and thank you for your good advice also!....Rowly.
I found out by bitter experience to be careful selecting from swatches alone. The colours will be different...even the size of the checks will look a different scale on the finished piece. What I have tried to do is put together a collection of jackets with different size checks, windowpanes etc...even a scarf, or old cap might do the trick. I have an old Harris tweed houndstooth jacket I bought in a thrift shop purely to use as a template to check swatches against to make sure the scale is what I want. The Glenhunt check on Bookster's site is shown made up in their gallery. I'm sure this is the colour I want. Crombie have an overcoat which I think is the same cloth...so, I intend checking the swatch against the crombie, when I get a chance....then, I will know for sure a jacket in it will suit me...risk removed ! Happy days! I am developing a keen eye this way, along with patience...and it adds to the overall enjoyment of bespoke tailoring, as a hobby....Glad to be of service...and thank you for your good advice also!....Rowly.
Johnstons of Elgin tweeds come in a range of weights, from their real-deal sturdy estate tweeds to lighter, softer cloths (480grms). There are some lovely patterns and they would fit the bill perfectly, a very nice grey herringbone with a blue overcheck for instance. Definitely worth a look.
The name Johnstons of Elgin keeps popping up every time there is a discussion about tweed but I haven't been able to find a website covering their complete range of cloths. Their site is dissapointing and seems limited to tailored pieces and some other stuff, but not cloths. I've sailed other sites, like Bookster's or House of Bruar's, with very few samples. What could be a better source? I'm sure Rowly or some other LL tweed fan must know.
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