Alterations question

[fontana1]

I recently picked up, from a SR house, a bespoke jacket that looked fine in the shop. After wearing it several times, however, I noticed that the right lapel tended, when the jacket is buttoned, to break a few inches above the button point, especially after wearing it for 5-10 minutes. I checked that the button itself lines up properly with the button hole. The jacket is not tight in the chest or waist. I believe that the right shoulder has been cut too low, or the left shoulder too high. Is this something which can be fixed? It would seem one side either needs to be pulled back or let out at some point. Both lapels should lie more or less flat against the chest when the jacket is buttoned.

[hectorm]

So your right lapel stayed perfectly in place at pick up and also during the first 5 o 10 minutes every time you wear your jacket. Mmmmm....
Could it be that your tailor cut your jacket for fitting you at an "unnatural" straight stance you assumed when being measured and later again when trying it in front of the mirror at pick up? It could be that it fits perfectly when you put it on in front of the mirror and then after 5 o 10 minutes if you slouch a bit the lapel will tend to brake. More if you lower your head to look at the break.
Being a bespoke jacket from SR this should not happen. I believe the problem can be fixed rather easily.
Actually it's the kind of problem my tailor would like me to discuss with him immediately instead of taking in to the public forum.

[old henry]

I think what this might be is that the collar on the one side has been joined a bit too loosly to the lapel. .if you pinch the lapel edge about 1/4 inch you might see that it rolls to the button.

[fontana1]

Thanks Frank. My first port of call was of course my tailor (he has made many jackets for me). But he seemed concerned that "tightening" the collar by 1/2 might throw off the patterns of the jacket...it's a rather loud tweed windowpane. I was just wondering if any other members may have had such an issue before, how it was dealt with, and whether the alteration can be done without messing up the overall balance of the jacket, especially in cases involving bold cloth patterns....

[old henry]

It will not throw off the plaid and has nothing to do with balance but it may call for a new top and under collar. It is quite common. Easily fixable. . If this is the case. If you can post a photo I can tell you but your tailor will know what to do..

[hectorm]

I think what this might be is that the collar on the one side has been joined a bit too loosly to the lapel.

Your idea sounds sensible but the fact that the problem arises only after a few minutes of wearing the jacket still intrigues me. Can it be that despite the collar and lapel being loosely joined the jacket still fits well in front of the mirror and then a few minutes of moving around makes the lapel break?

[old henry]

Yes, it could work itself off the shoulder once you move around.. Balance might be off.. short back it sounds like. ? Or shoulders need to be squared . Maybe only the one shoulder..Sounds like there is more going on here. Post pix and Lets have a look or we're just whisteling in the dark.