Maurice Sedwell

[DFR]

Maurice Sedwell and proprietor Andrew Ramroop are often though thought of as amongst the best on Saville Row, if not the best. Whilst all descriptions of that ilk are subjective does anyone have any experience of him?

How would one describe his preferred house style of coat - 'soft' akin to Anderson and Shepherd and those trained by that firm or more to a military approach such as Gieves or Dege and Skinner?

How flexible is he or is he rooted in old fashioned ways despite some of his avant garde designs?

Whilst a visit to understand his ways is likely to be my best course of action, it would be interesting to learn of any experience and opinions anyone has beforehand.

[J.S. Groot]

I have no personal experience, but head cutter Davide Taub shows examples of his projects at http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/.

He appears to be very skilled, stylistic choices notwithstanding.

[Occam's Razor]

I don't believe Andrew or Davide solemnly pronounce a set style, the so-called "house cut", to their customers. They rather find out what you are after and work from there so there is plenty of scope for collaboration if you are seeking this. Mind you, whenever I visit for a fitting or to decide on an order, there are many suits, jackets and overcoats hanging up, waiting for their owners, which are traditional in style and conservatively cut.

The majority of Davide Taub's posted works in his blog are made for his clients. Do ask to be shown some of their designs like the curved seams jackets. The pattern matching with bold checks running across the curved seams is impressive.

Certainly, they are not the most economical choice amongst Row tailors but I do recall Andrew peering at my newly made-up summer linen blazer and mentioned that some 105 manhours of work finally went into it. That is dedication in my estimation.

- OR

[ay329]

Certainly, they are not the most economical choice amongst Row tailors.
- OR

When visiting the U.S., prices start at $7,000 for a 2 piece suit....I shudder to think what a vest and an extra trouser would add.

[hectorm]

How would one describe his preferred house style of coat - 'soft' akin to Anderson and Shepherd and those trained by that firm or more to a military approach such as Gieves or Dege and Skinner?

I don't believe Andrew or Davide solemnly pronounce a set style, the so-called "house cut", to their customers. They rather find out what you are after and work from there so there is plenty of scope for collaboration if you are seeking this.

While I'm sure they are skillful and willing enough to work a perfect collaboration with their clients without imposing their "house style", I believe they do have one. I would not use with them the standards of "soft", "A&S" or "structured" though. Romantic and sophisticated are two words that come to my mind looking at their high waists, long lines and peaked shoulders Their work reminds me a bit of Sexton and the Nutters of the early 70s.

[Occam's Razor]

Soft structured tailoring is how Andrew Ramroop describes his approach. The lines of a Sedwell coat are neat with a shaped chest, clean shoulder line and a distinct demarcation between the shoulders and sleeves but without the wooden-like canvas or layers upon layers of shoulder padding used to achieve the desired effect. In fact, I find my Sedwell coats are no less comfortable to wear than my A&S coats if one wanted a coarse comparison.

Of all of the Savile Row tailors that I have encountered and been cut for, Andrew is quite something else. Fittings invariably take much longer than anticipated because everything, everything, is fastidiously checked, ripped apart and chalked up for reworking. Unlike dealings with one or two tailors who, for whatever reason, view small (and not so small) defects as inconsequential and tried to fob me off with unfathomable excuses, Andrew is quite the opposite. Even if the coat is fine to my eye but doesn't pass muster with his, it's another trip to the workshop for the coat where little spots are tightened up. The law of diminishing returns over effort is certainly evident here yet the final outcome is beyond 'good enough' to being close to flawless.

I do apologise if I sound like an infomercial but my opinion is that his firm's narrow acclaim is incongruent with the standard of craftsmanship coming out of its workshop.

- OR

[simonc]

I understand Davide Taube has moved on to Gieves & Hawkes as Head Cutter and Andrew Ramroop is taking a more operational role until a replacement is found. I hope this works out well for the house.

[hectorm]

I understand Davide Taube has moved on to Gieves & Hawkes as Head Cutter.

If there was someone ideal for replacing Kathryn Sargent as Head Cutter of G&H, it had to be Davide Taube. High waists, long lines, peaked shoulders. Good for Gieves and Hawkes and good for Mr. Taube.
Ms. Sargent left No 1 a few weeks ago for running her own show at Meyer & Mortimer (good for her too) and now in Maurice Sedwell they are surely hunting for a new Head Cutter too.
I love the merry go round of Savile Row.

[andreyb]

BTW, Kathryn Sargent created a web-site for her new business:

http://www.kathrynsargent.com/

Not terribly much to see there yet, apart of a US trip announcement.

Andrey

[hectorm]

Yep, not much indeed. But its clear that she is in charge of her own business independently from Meyer & Mortimer, although at the same address on Sakville Street. I've seen other tailors doing the same. Given the current prices per square foot around that area and the cost of overhead, it seems like the smart move.

[Rowly]

Yes, I happened to be there when a dispute arose between Tailors objecting to how long another Tailor had hogged the space, to do a fitting for his own client. The argument escalated until they were shouting the loudest and most foul mouthed abuse at each other, the full length of the shop, regardless of customers or potential customers. I was amazed. My feeling was that in such a context, such words should not bespoke

[st.tully]

I'm hoping not to go too far off topic, but Rowly's post raises a question I have had which is about the price charged by these tailors who share space of work in basements - really they are just a few hundred quid less than say Henry Poole - which of course has their own building and does all work in house. Do the small independent tailors have a higher profit margin and less volume? Does Poole have a lower margin (due to higher overheads) but more volume? Or is the margin the same across the board? Then of course there is Huntsman with prices much higher than Poole's - is there really that much difference in the work?

[andreyb]

I'm hoping not to go too far off topic, but Rowly's post raises a question I have had which is about the price charged by these tailors who share space of work in basements - really they are just a few hundred quid less than say Henry Poole - which of course has their own building and does all work in house.

Sargent's prices are quite steep -- according to this article, £3,230 ex-VAT for a two piece. Not sure on G&H or Poole, but this is actually more expensive than, say, Norton's stated price (£3,230 inc-VAT) -- without the name and overheads!

Andrey

[st.tully]

I hadn't seen her prices but I am surprised. I'd just like to know whether there is a difference in the quality of the tailoring - the actual make. She presents herself as a tailor who will cut as the customer wishes so there is not particular house style. For comparison sake, next door is Kent Haste and Lachter, whose two piece suit starts at 2,250 incl VAT - her overhead should be less since she shares space - why is her price 1000.00 more?

[Lugano]

she charges roughly what G&H charge, no doubt to assure her customers that her move does not mean a drop in quality