Charming imperfection or sloppy work?

[pupsik]

I just received my suit from a major Savile Row house after requesting a correction to this lapel. This is how it came back. Advice much appreciated.

lapel.gif

[Rowly]

If that is it after improvement, what did it look like at first? Have you any pics? Also, had you not pointed it out to them, were they intending to let you take it? What was their attitude to your reaction?

[pupsik]

It looked about the same originally. They first thought that it might be a "chalk line" creating the distortion and said they would address it. It seems to me that the lapel facing is shearing medially away from its backing, putting tension on the fabric and causing dimpling at the button hole edge. But my eye is not a tailor's eye.

[Costi]

Not a tailor here, either, but what I seem to be noting is that the buttonhole is stitched so tightly that its rounded (outer) end is pulling in the edge of the lapel facing and also the bar tack at the inner end of the buttonhole is so tight across that it creates a dimple. It is nicely stitched, but perhaps the hands that worked on it pulled the thread too tightly and put in too much tension (problems at home? ) and perhaps the cloth doesn't give/shrink easily enough to compensate. If that is the case, I don't see what can be done, but I don't regard it is a major issue and would have no problem wearing the coat.

[Rowly]

It looks to me that the button hole is machine made ( perhaps Frank could advise?), and has been done without the lapel being properly smoothed out flat, causing the dimple and pulling the lapel edge. I would suggest having the buttonhole threads undone, and re-done by hand. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would want the edge of the lapel opened and re trimmed so that the front face at least covers the back of the lapel. Considering the lapel is one of the most prominent features of the suit, rather than charming imperfection, I would consider this as an alarming imperfection!

[old henry]

I cannot open the photo . I dont know how to, But if the edge at the buttionhole pulls in a bit it is because the under cord was pulled too thght. Just streatch out the buttonhole with your thumbs and fingers until the edge is even..
OK , I saw.. Hold firmly the beginning of the buttonhole and the lapel edge and work it firmly but gently with youe fingers til it is even. Its fine. Although I could be wrong as the photo is too small to see. A charming imperfection.

[Rowly]

A charming clarification!

[Costi]

It looks to me that the button hole is machine made

I think that is a compliment to the finisher
I don't think machines can do the stitched over bar tack at the inner end of the buttonhole. Imperfect perfection?

[pupsik]

Thank you very much for the feedback, gentlemen. Frank, the non-interventional approach, involving attempts at stretching the fabric did not work in my hands. I spoke with my cutter in London who readily agreed to redo the button hole and lapel as necessary, aknowledging that he would want it to look better too.

[hectorm]

Dear Pupsik:
I´m glad that you found a solution.
And if that doesn´t work either, tell us and I might have another suggestion on how to play around it. Hint: it involves a little loop under your left lapel.

[Rowly]

I spoke with my cutter in London who readily agreed to redo the button hole and lapel as necessary, aknowledging that he would want it to look better too.

I'm delighted to hear that...it will be a really lovely jacket. Good luck with it!

[pupsik]

Thank you, Rowly. I ventured outside my comfort zone ordering this SB 2 piece suit in a brown pindot 13 Oz Lesser (29784). It does look excellent with a burgundy tie and dark brown brogues.

[Rowly]

Pupsik, It would be great to see a pic showing the overall suit. Your pic is very close-up and on my monitor it looks more like a greenish tweed. If the colour is right, brown can be a really great flaneur type suit IMHO, which is a real pleasure to wear and is not just another business suit. Pushing past your comfort zone, if you get it right ( and it sounds as if you have) can be a real thrill. Health to wear!