Overcoats

[Costi]

That Chesterfield from Mr. Roetzel's book has quite a lot going on! I think it is more a shopwindow exhibit that illustrates all that a tailor CAN do, not all that a customer SHOULD ask for...
My own gray herringbone Chesterfield is much more modest:

...or at least less spectacular.
The railroading is fine by me, it is a Covert mark. The coat worn by the gent in front of St. James's is more of a town cut in covert cloth, though very nicely done (self collar, SLIGHTLY slanted pockets, longer coat...). You can have THAT made and wear it as a Chesterfield or as a Covert, as you please

[hectorm]

The coat worn by the gent in front of St. James's is more of a town cut in covert cloth, though very nicely done (self collar, SLIGHTLY slanted pockets, longer coat...).

I loved the uppercase in "slightly". IMO this small detail makes all the difference in the world for an elegant town coat. Go straight and it would look too stiff. Go beyond 20 degrees and it starts to look country. Just the right inclination of the pocket flap to match the slant of the end of your sleeves in a natural position. It works miracles.