Why Half Linings in Trousers?

[Guest]

Why have half linings become prevalent in better trousers?

I am referring to the lining in the front half of the pants from the waist to the knee. This lining is a given unless there is a specific request to delete it. It has become widespread on not only bespoke/MTM but also RTW.

I was thinking that this lining serves no real purpose. If the wool is particularly scratchy, such as a thornproof or tweed, then it would not make much more sense to have a full lining to the knee or below?

Furthermore, wouldn't a full lining protect the cloth more from the greatest points of wear, abrasion, and sweating? In other words, wouldn't a full lining give the pants a longer life for those of us who don't order a second trouser?

[Guest]

A quote from Mr. Alden:

"One important point, bespoke trousers should be unlined. Lining is used by RTW manufacturers to mask and reinforce the inferior quality fabrics they normally use. If you are making bespoke trousers, we can (or should) assume you are using the very best fabrics available that do not require to be reinforced by a lining. Also lining is unaesthetic. But more importantly, in the Winter the lining will be cold on your skin (and not warm like the nice flannel you paid so dear to buy); and in Summer, the lining will cook a very important feature of your anatomy (and not remain cool, like the beautiful fresco fabric you paid so much to have.)"

[Guest]

Many people consider lined trousers luxurious, just as they think a fully lined jacket is a better product than a half lined one. (Actually the partially lined one needs more man-hours and costs more to produce than the fully lined one.) To a certain extend, a lining in a pair of trousers might prevent the knees from getting baggy.

The one really disgusting thing many RTW producers have come up with, is putting the lining over the pocket (bags), to save on the proper finish to the pockets. This means the flimsy lining fabric will wear very soon as it will rub against the body when you put the hands in the pockets.

Looked from inside, you should always see the proper finished pockets, i.e. outer fabric, lining, pockets. If the pockets are under the lining, leave well alone.

Of course in a bespoke suit you can always specify your preferences.

[Guest]

Alden's comments make a lot of sense, but I still can't help but think that the lining helps with durability. I have one pair of pants that I've been wearing for years and the lining on the inside is starting to look quite worn. If they weren't lined, I'd be afraid that the knees themselves would be wearing thin by now, but that isn't the case. Some people do wear things besides flannel, you know

Also, I've found that when my woolen pants aren't lined, I quite often have static build-up on the hairs of my leg, which is quite bothersom.

[Guest]

Of course, for certain flannel trousers there is the issue of stretch in the knees. A partial lining might absorb some of the abuse that would otherwise stretch the fabric out of shape.

[Guest]

When making my trousers I must half line them in the front and the back. I must be allergic to wool, it drives me crazy when it touches my skin. I have a similar problem with sweaters.

[Guest]

I hate RTW's with linings because they are usually synthetic and create a 'rustling' sound when walking, so I always cut them out, but try to avoid buying them in the first place. Also, after a time, I found that they tear at the knee through continually putting my feet through the legs!

[Guest]

I feel that the function of trouser lining is not so much to protect me from the trousers, as to protect the trousers from me! That is, reduce the transmission of any sweat or dirt at the point of contact in the upper legs. It even reduces friction, and the rate of wear, especially on the inner thighs, I feel.

That said, I tend not to have summer weight trousers lined, though I may be forced to revise this policy. I'm looking to obtain some white linen trousers (if not an entire suit), and I certainly don't think that it will be opaque enough in the upper legs for my purposes. I have no intentions to resort to the expedients that young ladies go to in terms of undergarments!

Cheers,

Eden

[Guest]

Thank you, Eden, for your response.

Essentially, you state that the half lining protects the cloth.

However, wouldn't it make more sense to half line both the front and back of the trousers? After all, one spends a good time sitting, and the back of one's leg would be touching and rubbing against the back of the pants.

With this in mind, I have half lining in front and back. I am surprised that most men don't do this in the bespoke and MTM markets.

[Guest]

I think it's the higher weighted fabrics that permit no lining but withstand wear and tear, and these are the type I would expect Alden to be using. Additionally, over time such fabrics assume the shape of their wearer which may or may not be desirable. Personally, I don't like itchy fabrics to be in contact with my skin so I would line any such fabric for trousers but otherwise I feel much more comfortable when no lining is used.

[Guest]

I should enter the caveats that, in the first place, I live in an exceedingly hot climate, and like to wear my suits year round. Further, being relatively young, and having fairly few, I tend to wear them more frequently than might otherwise be the case.

In general, I certainly endorse the remarks of our learned leader.

As for the back lining, the main point of contact appears to be already protected by the pocket bags. Though, lining certainly wouldn't go astray...

Cheers,

Eden