Daks Tops - Hot weather comfort

[Russell]

I’m spending a couple of weeks in south-east Asia at the moment; in front of the house as I write this is a tiny road along which 3 or even 4 vehicles pass a day & beyond that an uninterrupted view of paddy fields interspersed with a few trees. It’s pretty warm but without the fierce heat of April & May.

A couple of years ago I decided to have made a few pairs of linen trousers with ‘Daks Tops’ – cut properly to ride above the hips. In any weight of linen (mine are mostly medium to heavy cloth) they are by far the best trousers I’ve found for hot & often humid conditions. The way they hang relatively loosely from above the hips without having a belt strangling the torso is an utter delight. Far more comfortable than the belted version in the same cloth plus they seem to run even cooler as there’s no hermetic seal induced by the belt at the hips.

In addition the higher waistband gives a flattering balance between leg & torso – without being so extreme as to look like what my father would have called “linen chest-waders”.

There’s nothing at all new about the style & many readers of the LL use it but for those who don’t & travel to, or live in warmer places – it is well worth a try as from a comfort point of view you don’t know what you are missing (looks good as well).

Regards
Russell

[NJS]

I quite agree. I've always thought it odd that the Duke of Windsor favoured the ugly imposition of a belt.
NJS

[Rowly]

I always have Daks tops. Belt loops are for RTW one size fits all. Even if I had a suit with belt loops I would not wear a belt. Tabs, to my eyes are ungainly. Daks tops with two unpolished horn buttons are neat, tidy and in keeping with bespoke tailoring. This is IMHO, of course.

[couch]

A search of this site will reveal my long advocacy of Daks tops. I still wear belts with more rugged odd trousers, such as heavy cavalry twills or whipcords to be worn with tweed jackets, but for flannels and worsteds and linens, either odd or in suits, it's Daks tops for me.

I'm curious, Rowly, how you've fared with horn buttons so far when having your trousers cleaned and/or pressed. Poole advised dyed MOP buttons for mine as being less likely to crack if handled less than gently, so that's what I've got, along with corozo/tagua buttons on some MTM Daks-top trousers. So far I haven't really tested them, since I've brushed, sponged, and pressed all the trousers myself. But I suspect eventually some of the linen ones will have to have commercial attention . . . .

[NJS]

A search of this site will reveal my long advocacy of Daks tops. I still wear belts with more rugged odd trousers, such as heavy cavalry twills or whipcords to be worn with tweed jackets, but for flannels and worsteds and linens, either odd or in suits, it's Daks tops for me.

I'm curious, Rowly, how you've fared with horn buttons so far when having your trousers cleaned and/or pressed. Poole advised dyed MOP buttons for mine as being less likely to crack if handled less than gently, so that's what I've got, along with corozo/tagua buttons on some MTM Daks-top trousers. So far I haven't really tested them, since I've brushed, sponged, and pressed all the trousers myself. But I suspect eventually some of the linen ones will have to have commercial attention . . . .

I agree on more rugged trews; in fact I am wearing a belt now! I suggest wrapping delicate buttons in aluminium foil, before cleaning.
NJS

[Rowly]

The only pressing I have done to date is by my tailor. However, if I were to have trousers dry cleaned I would chance the buttons on the basis that a damaged button can easily be replaced. NJS's suggestion about foil protection seems a great idea. For me, natural horn is like hardwood compared to a veneer....you can just tell the difference and any down side is well worth it.

[NJS]

The only pressing I have done to date is by my tailor. However, if I were to have trousers dry cleaned I would chance the buttons on the basis that a damaged button can easily be replaced. NJS's suggestion about foil protection seems a great idea. For me, natural horn is like hardwood compared to a veneer....you can just tell the difference and any down side is well worth it.

I should say that the button trick is that of cleaners Lilliman & Cox.
NJS

[couch]

Thanks to both of you for your responses. I shall have to try the foil trick if it comes to that. I agree that good horn buttons are wonderful (though uniformly dyed ones on a solid-color suit can be a bit dull). However, I can't find any fault with the dyed natural MOP for Daks tops, and they sit a bit flatter against the waistband.

[marburyvmadison]

Any idea how durable the elastic is, and if it will hold up over time?

[couch]

I suppose that depends on the maker and his choice of materials; I have several pair from two different makers that are going on six years with no apparent change; they haven't been dry cleaned, though. Just sponged or--carefully--spot steamed, brushed and pressed. If you wear the trousers infrequently enough that the elastic were to loosen before the trousers got threadbare in other areas (presumably after several years), the maker should be able to open the waistband and replace the elastic.

[Russell]

Any idea how durable the elastic is, and if it will hold up over time?

I’d echo what Couch said regarding durability. Aside from that I’ve got a couple of pairs which have a solid fabric strip rather than an elasticated one - as the range of adjustment needed is relatively small this works well.

I think the key factor for comfort (in any weather) is that the trousers are made to fit reasonably correctly around the waist with whatever type of adjuster used (e.g. Daks, buckle etc) providing the final fit to allow the trousers to hang rather than squeeze.

Regards
Russell

[T.K.]

Aside from that I’ve got a couple of pairs which have a solid fabric strip rather than an elasticated one - as the range of adjustment needed is relatively small this works well.

This sounds like a good alternative to elastic. I do have the experience of the elastic strip breaking off from the inside of the waistband (after a year or so). I don't know yet if this can be fixed easily. One other problem I have with daks tops is a pair for which the elastic is simply cut too long and so adjustment doesn't have an effect at all. It seems there is enough to get right for the trouser maker.

[couch]

T.K., I'm sorry to hear of the snapped elastic you describe, but I have to say that such a failure suggests that an excessive amount of tension was being put on the elastic/tab (leaving aside the possibility of shoddy material or sewing). I think Russell is absolutely correct that if the trousers are properly sized, the amount of actual tension on the tabs only needs to be very slight--really only felt when you move (sitting, twisting etc.) in ways that tug on the trousers. They're really to keep the waistband from stretching beyond your exact size (at its smallest), not to make them grip your waist tightly. You shouldn't need to cinch them up. Likewise, for your pair with the too-long tabs, you (or your tailor) should be able to correct that easily by moving the buttons forward an eighth or a quarter of an inch (if they're off by more than that, I'd say you have cause to have the maker remake the tabs, unless your waist size has changed significantly since they were fitted/ordered).

[T.K.]

Thank you for your thoughts, Couch. The snapping off was without a doubt caused by poor construction as I was hardly using the tab. For the other pair I need to have the elastic shortened, because it would start creeping up from its housing if the buttons were to be re-located forward.

What about the construction where the tab is on the front? I have seen it on pictures but am not sure how it works exactly and if there is elastic involved.

Example: http://www.marianorubinacci.net/club/wp ... 99x750.jpg

[davidhuh]

What about the construction where the tab is on the front? I have seen it on pictures but am not sure how it works exactly and if there is elastic involved.

Example: http://www.marianorubinacci.net/club/wp ... 99x750.jpg

Dear TK,

it seems you misunderstand the picture. Rubinacci trousers usually come with side adjusters. What you see in front is just an extended front band in typical Rubinacci style. No elastic involved

cheers, David