Perfumes

[uppercase]

I wonder...I see that Bois des Iles comes in parfum but does sycomore?

"BOIS DES ILES PARFUM
A warm, woody scent created in 1926 by Master Perfumer Ernest Beaux, BOIS DES ILES is evocative of a stroll through an autumnal forest. Dry and spicy notes derived from precious woods spiral into a heart of sweet flowers. Now, this rare composition is offered in the most powerful, concentrated form of fragrance; the fullest expression of the perfumer's art. " from Chanel site.

[Gido]

I wonder...I see that Bois des Iles comes in parfum but does sycomore?

not that i am aware of.

and the sad news has reached me that they have messed with cuir de russie. i am reluctant to go to the store and try it, please, no.. not another masterpiece ruined?

[Gido]

hello,

just in case anyone is curious about the greatest vetiver of all time (only challenged by sycomore, which is very different) here's a miniature (4ml) of vintage guerlain vetiver for auction on ebay, current price 1 dollar:

http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... SS:NL:1123

it's the first edt edition, and it looks like it's in excellent condition.

best,
gido.

[dopey]

I wonder...I see that Bois des Iles comes in parfum but does sycomore?

not that i am aware of.

and the sad news has reached me that they have messed with cuir de russie. i am reluctant to go to the store and try it, please, no.. not another masterpiece ruined?

Please tell more. I like Cuir de Russie, and while I have one of the large EdT bottles, I much prefer and more frequently wear the PP. What and when and why was the change and was it to all of the lines? Do I have a chance of getting some of the older production if I go to the NY flagship or is it too late?

[Gido]

Please tell more. I like Cuir de Russie, and while I have one of the large EdT bottles, I much prefer and more frequently wear the PP. What and when and why was the change and was it to all of the lines? Do I have a chance of getting some of the older production if I go to the NY flagship or is it too late?

i wish i knew more. i've read this in a book review of turin and sanchez their new book, simply called the little book of perfumes. a copy of this is on it's way to me, i can report back if there's more info there. i doubt they will state the date of it's reformulation, i doubt even more that chanel have changed it's packaging. the only thing you can do then, is to compare the batch-codes. these codes can be deciphered, and will tell you when the juice was produced. there is no other way to find out which batches any chanel boutique has in store.

the problem with going to the store to find out is this: the tester bottle, it might be of another (older) batch than the bottle they are going to sell you. you could try to discuss the issue with the chanel boutique staff; tell them you want a guarantee, if it's not the same you are going to return it and you will get a refund even when it's opened. i have no idea if they are going to agree, but you could give it a try. if it turns out that they still have the right formula, buy enough back-up to last you a lifetime.

[uppercase]

Well, Sultana finally sent me my tiny 15ml allotment of Cuir de Russie parfum and I must say that it is wonderful.

It is rich, unctious, oily, redolent of civet, jasmine and slatherings of saddle soap.

It is gone when the morning comes.

Do visit Sultana at 57th St. and let me know what you think. She's from Long Island via Montenegro.

Montenegro: the pearl of the Mediterranean.

'Montenegro, the pearl of the Mediterranean, unique in many ways, is situated in the south of the Adriatic. Nowhere else can you find, so much natural wealth, beauty, mild beaches, clear lakes, fast rivers, and gorgeous mountains in such a compact area as in Montenegro. In the morning you can wake up along the beautiful Adriatic coast, have lunch on the banks of Skadar Lake, and enjoy an evening walk in the Montenegrin mountains. Montenegro cannot leave you indifferent.'

http://www.visit-montenegro.com/

Remember, through parfum we can reach out and make friends around the world!

Cuir de Russie:
'Fragrance Les Exclusifs de CHANEL CUIR DE RUSSIE
CUIR DE RUSSIE
Limited Edition
A rich, woody Oriental enhanced with leather notes for an enveloping, warm, sensual presence, created by CHANEL Master Perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1927. Constructed on a base of Albanian Birchwood, its pure heart of Jasmine, Oriental Rose and Ylang-Ylang peaks in a mélange of mingling notes -- Tunisian Orange Blossom, Calabrian Bergamot and Sicilian Mandarin.'

http://www.chanel.com/en_US/fragrance-b ... PRAY-88469


Ofcourse, basenotes has its 2 cents to add:

http://www.basenotes.net/ID10210630.html

[Aristide]

Is there a "shelf life" to these EDTs and parfums? In other words, do they "go bad" with age/improper storage?

[Gido]

Is there a "shelf life" to these EDTs and parfums? In other words, do they "go bad" with age/improper storage?

stored away from light (direct sunlight is the worst) and heat they can outlast their owner.

[Aristide]

Is there a "shelf life" to these EDTs and parfums? In other words, do they "go bad" with age/improper storage?

stored away from light (direct sunlight is the worst) and heat they can outlast their owner.

Much like extra virgin olive oil!

[Gido]

i have received the little book of perfumes - the hundred classics by luca turin and tania sanchez. a highly recommended read.

here is the 2011 update on cuir the russie,

"The smokiness is less sweet and a touch less animalic, as if the birch tar has been partially replaced with something cleaner, more charcoal-like, such as cypriol. There is also a mite less powdery sweetness in the core, probably due to sandalwood adjustments. Overall the fragrance seems a little more spry and masculine."

it does not appear to be that terrible, as some reviewers (of the book) had made it look.

[uppercase]

i have received the little book of perfumes - the hundred classics by luca turin and tania sanchez. a highly recommended read.

here is the 2011 update on cuir the russie,

"The smokiness is less sweet and a touch less animalic, as if the birch tar has been partially replaced with something cleaner, more charcoal-like, such as cypriol. There is also a mite less powdery sweetness in the core, probably due to sandalwood adjustments. Overall the fragrance seems a little more spry and masculine."

it does not appear to be that terrible, as some reviewers (of the book) had made it look.

I'll have to get Turin's new book.

btw, Gido, have you read Ellena's book?

So far, just 2 reviews on Amazon for Turin's book:
here's the most negative, 1 Star:

1 of 11 people found the following review helpful:
1.0 out of 5 stars Lazy work nothing new really!, October 30, 2011
By Emma - See all my reviewsThis review is from: The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics (Hardcover)
What Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez call "The hundred classics" is simply their very own favorite fragrances, absolutely not conventional classics therefore in the book there is no review, none whatsoever of Frederic Malle and Annick Goutal (not that I'm particularly fond of these perfumers myself but still) however amongst their must-have classics, Tommy Girl, EL Knowing the bugspray from hell and Boring Paradise (oopps I meant Beyond)!! For instance where is Jean Patou 1000??
The 2011 updates from the 2007 original book are for the most part one-liners at best. So disappointing when I was expecting complete new reviews.
This book is worthless specially when can you find much better reviews and more elaborate comprehensive information online...for free!!!

[Gido]

I'll have to get Turin's new book.

btw, Gido, have you read Ellena's book?

So far, just 2 reviews on Amazon for Turin's book:
here's the most negative, 1 Star:

emma's review made me laugh, even though it is hardly funny, considering how luca got treated on basenotes (bullied, no less). i think this lady would do well to find her volume knob and turn it down a few notches.

the book is what it is, 96 of the five star reviews of their previous book, most of them re-smelled in their current edition, with notes added. plus reviews of 4 great classics, in their original shape, from the osmotheque. it is well written, witty and to the point, very informed (especially mr. turin), and they get straight into the matter as opposed to circling around it (as in most perfume criticism), wonderfully nailing it with just a few words.

purchasing this book will probably costs you quite a bit more than the price of the book itself.

i haven't read ellena's new book. have you? it does sound interesting.

[Gido]

btw, Gido, have you read Ellena's book?

i've just ordered it. i hope it's a good deal in-depth. i know a bit of perfume making, i've been a perfumer myself. not a professional one, but i'm certainly not talking about simply mixing up some oils.

i've read some stuff from mr. ellena's mentor, mr. roudnitska, on the subject of evaluation. it's all a bit pedantic, but i can live with that because he is right. roudnitska wrote a book, but i have never seen it, and i can't read french anyway. i'm sure it must be very interesting! like almost any perfume-lover i am a fan of his work.

today i happen to wear one of his greatest masterpieces, vintage femme extrait. it is a lactonic, fruity chypre of the old school. gorgeous, rich, deep stuff with a great soul. if you want some, look for the bottles under the brand name marcel rochas. avoid parfums rochas and rochas. the color of the juice is supposed to be fairly dark.

[uppercase]

If you enjoy perfume and like lists, go out right now and buy the Turin/Sanchez book "The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics".

About 100 pages long, $10-, this slim volume winnows down the 1900 perfumes the authors surveyed in their previous book ("Perfumes: The A-Z Guide") to just 100 scents which they consider "magnificent": 'not the greatest of all time - instead they are those that struck us as far above their peers in quality, inventiveness or straightforward beauty...'

The Little Book reprints the reviews of these 100 perfumes already found in The A-Z Guide but updates the reviews based on perfumes' latest (2011) formulation. Most, though not all, perfumes have suffered as a result of reformulations necessitated by the International Fragrance Association and European regulations.

As an example of one scent which has not suffered...this from the updated review of Knize 10: "More floral and even better. This great leather and Cuir de Russie always erred toward the softer and sweeter, to their advantage".

There are numerous Top Ten Lists (Best Masculines, Best Feminines for Men, Best Big Ticket Splurges, perfume selections if marooned on a Desert Island, etc. etc.) as well as a neat little Glossary of Materials and Terms, and an Index of Brands. I was surprised to see that only 1 perfume from Hermes was selected (Osmanthe Yunnan). Guerlain had the most entries with 12.

http://www.amazon.com/Little-Book-Perfu ... 432&sr=1-1

[Warwickshire]

In the Secret of Scent, Luca Turin writes: "Good Iris notes in fragrance are correspondingly rare but when properly executed exude a frosty luxury which everyone falls in love with sooner or later. Chanel's Cuir de Russie has it as does Serge Luten's Iris Silver Mist."

Personally my favourite is and always has been Creed Green Irish Tweed.