Savile Row A to Z

[alden]

Thus, a kind of "Savile Row A to Z", with a short description of house style, price range, cutter(s) bio and a summary of recent experiences for each house would be of great help.

An entry for Nortons might look like this:

Norton & Sons (16, Savile Row)

Head cutter is Stephen Allen, who started his career in 1984 at Wells of Mayfair. As reported by several members, there were many problems on service/delivery side in 2010 (before Mr Allen came on board); it seems the company is determined to resolve them. Results of these efforts remain to be seen (and reported).

Prices (in 2011) start from 2980 (inc VAT) for a two-piece suit.

P.S.: There are a few lists that are similar to, but not quite exactly what I propose:

1) "The London Lounge Certified Artisan Program". An excellent list (of "best of the best"), but a short one. Which is understandable -- since it is prepared by a single (though very knowledgeable) man.

I think this could be a great idea if handled properly and constructed from real clients' experiences. (Please let's not have ads or infomercials for tailors like ones prevalent on the other forums.)

The format Andrey suggested is a good one. I leave it to you, the assembled LL members to fill in the blanks.

Cheers

Michael Alden

[Badden]

Meyer & Mortimer (Sackville Street)

Paul Munday is the cutter who travels to the United States and Canada. One of the few Savile Row tailors to come across the Atlantic on a quarterly basis (though primarily to the East Coast and Canada). A military cut is favored - roped shoulders, pinched waist, a slightly heavier canvas, though Mr. Munday appears to be quite accomodating. Unlike many other London-based firms, he doesn't scrimp on the fittings.

Prices (in 2011) start from ~2,500 (excl. VAT) for a two-piece suit.

Further information on recent experience with the company can be found by searching member Frog In A Suit's posts on the LL.

Badden

[Badden]

Anderson & Sheppard (Old Burlington Street)

The 'big dog' of the Row travels to New York twice a year, and once a year to more 'provincial' American cities. John Hitchcock (the MD) and Colin Heywood represent the firm during these visits. Fittings are very regimented - get in, try on the garment quickly, have Hitchcock assess the fit (he may even solicit a comment or two from you) and get out. They're fully booked up at half-hour intervals, and don't have the time / inclination to chit-chat. Take their cut or leave it - not much room for discussion, and they don't encourage iGentish discussions on styling tweaks.

Very professionaly organized and managed - appointments are confirmed, questions are answered, and swatches are dispatched promptly. For all their faults, their double-breasted coat is without equal. If U.S. based, I suggest you ask for a basted fitting for your first suit (i.e. you'll receive two fittings in total).

Prices (in 2011) start from ~2,600 (excl. VAT) for a two-piece suit.

Badden

[andreyb]

Kent, Haste & Lachter (New Burlington Street, 13)

Two cutters here: John Kent and Terry Haste.

John Kent started at Adeney & Boutroy (under Ron Pescod, back in 50s), then went to Hawes & Curtis (under Teddy Watson), then went independent (with a short stint as Norton & Son's head cutter). Style-wise, seems to be quite accomodating.

Terry Haste started at Hawes & Curtis (under John Kent, back in 70s), then went to Hackett, then to Huntsman. Obviously, should be proficient in Huntsman style, but I really have no direct experience (other members are welcome ).

The company is very accomodating when meeting in person -- managed to squeeze two fitting during my ten days stay; when I returned, made required modifications to my trousers and a coat in less than five days. Suggestions, when asked, are readily provided; finer style points discussed with obvious pleasure and interest (at least by Mr Kent, who is quite chatty). However, seem to be busy all the time, which hurts -- I once waited ~40 mins for my appoitment (scheduled way in advance) to finally start.

But once one went outside of the shop, the level of service tanks -- with delayed answers to e-mails / e-mails not answered at all, promises not met, etc. Eventually deliver, though (at least, in my case).

Further information and opinions on John Kent can be found here: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =4&t=10136 and there: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =4&t=10136.

Prices (in 2010) started from 1950 gbp (incl. VAT) for a two-piece suit. Then they went slightly up, I'm not sure by how much -- if what they quoted to me is correct for everyone, should be around 2200 gbp for a two-piece.

Andrey

[Martin]

Fallan & Harvey (Saville Row)

Part of Davies & Son

Peter Harvey is the cutter. His suits are described as "traditional London cut," which is consistent with the other tailors housed at Davies. Peter visits the United States four times a year, along with Mr. Allen Bennett (Proprietor of Davies). Peter is very open to suggestions and willing to work with you.

Martin

[Scot]

Welsh & Jefferies
20 Savile Row

The firm is just over a hundred years old but it has not always been on Savile Row. A milatory tailor by tradition, this now forms a very small proportion of its output. They hold the warrant for the uniforms of the Prince of Wales and made (in 10 days!) His Royal Highness's Admirals Full Dress uniform for his son's wedding.

The cutters are Malcolm Plews and James Cottrell, also directors of the company. Both are Savile Row trained and Malcolm has certainly done the rounds of other houses, including having run his own show for a while. I am not sure of James's history. Both are very approachable and a pleasure to deal with, although, sadly, Malcolm is due to retire in September 2011. The apprentice, who recently won the golden shears award, will be retained.

As might be expected from a military tailor, their coat is structured: a firm shoulder with strong, though not exaggerated, roping, clean chest and back. Waist supression is a feature with a flaired skirt, which, at least on my SB coats suggests more of an equestrian look than the hour-glass shape of some other houses. Making is not done on the premises but my experience suggests very good craftsmen are employed. The quality of the construction is, to my eys excellent. They are purely bespoke - nothing else.

I would suggest that new customers will get the best results by opting for the above house style - let them do what they are good at. The only minor criticism I might level would be that there is a tendency towards inflexibility on some issues. Button 3 rolled to 2 would be regarded as an American "fashion" and not what they were about. However, I can understand that and if this is what you want you can go elsewhere for it.

I am not sure that they travel a great deal. They have a loyal customer base in the UK and this seems to be more than enough to keep them going. They also have very reasonable prices for an SR house - 3k (inc. VAT) for a 2 piece SB.

Overall, a small friendly firm who do what they do to a very high standard and offer good value for money.

[Mark Seitelman]

DAVIES & SON

Alan Bennett is the owner. He is Davies & Son. Mr. Bennett has acquired numerous tailoring firms with owners either retiring or easing into retirement. E.g., Wells of Mayfair, Johns & Pegg, James & James, and Fallan & Harvey.

He is accompanied by Peter Harvey on many of his trips, and I believe that Mr. Harvey maintains his own "identity" and client base. Mr. Bennett comes to New York four times a year. Other cities are also covered (e.g., Boston, Washington, and San Francisco), but at a less frequent rate.

Davies produces a classic, conservative English suit. It has a shaped waist, and narrow trouser legs. In my case, padding in the shoulders. For another customer there may be less padding. He uses different coat makers depending upon the requirements of the customer. Nothing is extreme.

Mr. Bennett is open to suggestions, but it is a waste not to follow his advice. He knows the little tricks of the trade to make the heavy appear a little thinner ("my, have you lost weight?") and the short appear taller ("gee, you look great!").

The typical routine is to be measured at the first meeting. At the second meeting there will be a basted try-on of all pieces (coat, vest, and pants). At the second meeting, Mr. Bennett will mark-up the try-on for finishing. Thereafter, it will be mailed. It is possible for the new customer to get a finished suit in about 2 months. The regular customer can get the suit in a shorter time in since the measuring stage can be skipped (assuming same weight, etc.).

The suit is handmade. The vest is entirely handsewn.

Customer service is excellent. You never have to chase after Mr. Bennett and company.

I have not priced them lately, but they fall in the 2,600 (GBS) range.

[carl browne]

Richard Anderson Ltd
Sherborne House
13 Savile Row
London W1S3PH

Head (and I think sole) cutter is Richard Anderson, who trained with the legendary Huntsman cutters Colin Hammick and Brian Hall. Wrote an extremely entertaining memoir of his time at Huntsman, "Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed." He has an excellent eye, and cuts very elegant and flattering clothes; strong house style--single button coats with firm, unroped shoulders, high armholes, nipped waist and open quarters, slightly flared. Trousers cut close to the leg. While nothing is exagerated, the clothes are smooth, fitted, and undraped, imparting a serious, almost military look.

Started the firm in the early 2000s with Brian Lishak, (also from Huntsman) who has been a fixture in Savile Row for fifty years. Brian has an encyclopedic knowledge of the trade and an enthusiasm that's terribly contagious. He's a great believer in heavy cloth (as am I, having undergone his conversion). He is constantly searching for new and interesting fabrics for his customers--with great success. Some of the wilder fabrics make a nice foil to the somewhat severe cut of the clothes themselves.

My last commission, a heavy linen suit, cost about $4,700.00. The clothes aren't cheap, but they're built to last, and since most of them will probably last longer than I will, they're well worth it.

Regular trips to New York, Washington, Chicago, San Francisco, Beverly Hills, Houston, and Boston.

[dempsy444]

H. Huntsman & Sons
11, Savile Row


Quality and construction is first rate. Excellent sewing, finishing and trim. There are a few notable characteristics to my huntsman suit and experience. First, my suit contains a heavier canvas, so even though I chose an 11 oz cloth the suit is very heavy. Much heavier then the italian style suits I am use to. I will say that the heavier construction is growing on me and I appreciated wearing it when I was in NYC this winter. It just has a very substantial feel that I am liking more.

Second, it is a much more closely tailored suit then I am use to. Huntsman has a reputation for cutting a very lean and close fitting suit. This is what I got. As a result, I find that I feel less relaxed in it but more muscular. In fact, one interesting consequence of wearing the suit is it draws commentary on my physique. I've only worn it 5 times publicly but each time I get a comment like "you're taking steroids," "you look strong." I never get these comments in any other suit I wear or if I wear a shirt. I believe it just has to do with the structure of the suit and how closely it contours my frame. It accentuates my broader frame and drop. I'm not sure how I feel about the commentary but I do appreciate the close tailoring of the suit, and feel good in it.

Third, the experience with Huntsman was mixed. I found the staff to be very professional and friendly. A few things conspired to make the process painful though, which has lasted over 3 years and 7 fittings. It was a long distance commission from San Francisco and I don't get to London very often so the process got extended unnaturally where adjustments would be made and then shipped to me. What arrived was always off and I would have to wait six months for them to get to SF to show them in person. As I said this carried on for 7 fittings and 3 years. An easy way to solve this is to live in London. For those who don't though, you need to be prepared for such an outcome, as there is no guarantee against it even with the best tailors. (Long distance bespoke sort of puts both the customer and the tailor in an unfair situation and you both have selfish motives for making it work and hope that it will). Another contributing factor may have been Huntsman's ambitious nature. As I said, they do try to cut a very tailored suit, which leaves little room for error. This sort of raises the stakes in the long-distance program. When they get it right, the results are brilliant, but when they don't you go through the ordeal I did.

The one significant criticism I would have of Huntsman itself and not just the overall situation is the apparent out-of-site out-of-mind nature of the firm. In person very professional and polite with an eagerness to give me what I want but once they got home it was as if out-of-site out-of-mind took over. They would tell me that the suit would arrive by a certain date yet I found myself calling two months later wondering where it was, at which point we would go through the same frustrating over-promise/under-deliver process all over again. In the end I probably spent more money on my Huntsman suit in lost time then I did in actual dollars. I realize Huntsman now has my pattern down to make me a very good second suit but in reality I likely won't use Huntsman again for this very last reason.