Corduroy suit, weight of cloth

[davidhuh]

Dear gentlemen,

I am planning to commission a 2-piece corduroy suit. I have just received lovely patterns from Dugdale - but I am afraid they are too heavy (680-740 gms range). My guess is the 465-495 range would be more suitable.

Many thanks for your advice!

David

[cathach]

Hello David,

If you're going to the bother of having a corduroy suit made, I would definitely go for the heavier cloth, the heavier the cloth the deeper the 'nap' or brushed surface of the fabric on the ridges or 'wales' of the corduroy. Consequently I imagine it would wear a lot better. Also make sure to get two pairs of trousers.

[davidhuh]

Dear Cathach,

Many thanks indeed for your advice. After some thinking, I decided to go for a 470gramme Porter & Harding cloth - mainly because its brown shading combines better with other colours such as grey & light blue than the other patterns I received. You are right about the number of trousers, I do this consequently when ordering bespoke suits.

I will consider the heavier cloth for odd trousers or a second commission at later stage.

Best regards, David

[ay329]

If you are not convinced to go for the heavier cloth for both pieces...consider the following:
Order enough cloth for the trouser to be in the heavier weight
Get the medium weight cloth for the jacket...presuming both cloths are from the same cloth maker...who can ensure the colors match

On cooler/colder days...you'll appreciate the heavier weight corduroy trouser.

[davidhuh]

On cooler/colder days...you'll appreciate the heavier weight corduroy trouser.

Dear ay329,
I already enjoy the comfort of a corduroy trouser in the 700gms class. They are great in winter (I live in Switzerland). I may get more of those done. I will wear the suit for work (perfect in my environment) - and for this purpose, 700 grammes are too much. If one day I decide to do my skiing in a suit, I might be tempted again...

David

[ay329]

Skiing with corduroy? It'll get wet quickly and be uncomfortable...but 24oz woollen flannel is the right choice for sporting in the snow

[alden]

David

The 470 thin wale cord was a great choice for a suit. An off topic question, what is the status of tailoring in CH? Or do you slip south of the border to Italy?

Cheers

Michael

[davidhuh]

An off topic question, what is the status of tailoring in CH? Or do you slip south of the border to Italy?

Dear Michael,

the status of tailoring in my country is that many well known SR tailors are visiting Geneva and/or Zurich . As I am very frequently in London, I went to see some SR tailors on their premises and decided to commission the first suit from Thomas Mahon. Delivery due these days, some more is "work in progress"

cheers, david

[alden]

the status of tailoring in my country is that many well known SR tailors are visiting Geneva and/or Zurich . As I am very frequently in London, I went to see some SR tailors on their premises and decided to commission the first suit from Thomas Mahon. Delivery due these days, some more is "work in progress"

David,

I have had a few men from CH come down to Sicily and they told me that local resources are all bit nil. Makes sense that SR tailors would visit Geneva and Zurich.

Let us know how things go with Tom.

Cheers

Michael

[davidhuh]

Let us know how things go with Tom.

hello Michael,

I will certainly post a picture as soon as I get hold of anybody who takes a good shot
He is a very nice person, very approachable and about my age, which made me go for him. For shirts, I went to Budd (John Butcher is my cutter) where I am very happy with about 10 shirts commissioned so far.

david

[hectorm]

Davidhu- I hope you will enjoy your corduroy suit for years to come. Have you considered adding a vest? I believe it could be a great move. 8 or 9 years ago I "bespoke" a 3 piece sand-colored thin wale corduroy SB and it's one of my favorite go-to lounge suits. I break the rules and I wear it a lot in-town during the colder seasons with oxford blue shirts and paisley dark ties, and with the vest on I can skip the overcoat. I'm not sure about it's exact weight but comparing it with other odd cord trousers, I believe it must be in the 500 gr. range, very similar to yours. I also congratulate you in the smart decision regarding the two trousers. I did not do it myself and now I regret it. Go for the vest and you will not regret it either.

[davidhuh]

hello hectorm,

pleased to hear you are breaking rules in town - I plan similar sacrilege

I have considered ordering a waist coat, and decided against. This will not hinder me wearing one. My first waist coat is currently in the making with a tweed suit - in a different material which I do not remember at this point. This waist coat is going to be "multi purpose", it should be wearable with other suits. There are also cashmere knit wear waist coats from Drake, coming in a variety of colours. I recently bought a yellow one for my first bespoke suit - it looks very good. I quite like the idea of waistcoats in a material / colour which is different from the suit. It looks a bit more playful and relaxed.

I had the first fitting with the corduroy 2 weeks ago, and cannot wait wearing it.

David

[hectorm]

Hello davidhuh,
November has brought us some beautiful sunny days with temperature in the upper 40s F. Ideal weather for wearing our corduroy suits without any other outer layer to hide it from the public eye. I got to wear mine once already this season, and I was wondering how things turned out with yours. Did you get the chance to wear it? I bet you did. Please tell me, and also let me know for what occasions you have found it more appropriate. I am always searching for that "perfect corduroy suit moment".

[ay329]

no corduroy suit is complete without a fair isle slipover vest...we have the Duke of Windsor to thank
http://www.shetland-handknits.co.uk/images/prince2.jpg
http://www.thistleandbroom.com/shopping ... reinfo.htm

[davidhuh]

Hello davidhuh,
November has brought us some beautiful sunny days with temperature in the upper 40s F. Ideal weather for wearing our corduroy suits without any other outer layer to hide it from the public eye. I got to wear mine once already this season, and I was wondering how things turned out with yours. Did you get the chance to wear it? I bet you did. Please tell me, and also let me know for what occasions you have found it more appropriate. I am always searching for that "perfect corduroy suit moment".

Dear Hectorm,

Nice that you remember my lovely corduroy suit

In fact, I am wearing it that often that I had to fix a button yesterday. Regarding the Fair Isle slipover vest, as Ay329 is suggesting: I was not told by the Duke, but realised weeks ago that the perfectly matching one was already sitting in my closet. So this is done with considerable success.

The choice of cloth was correct, the weight is perfect. Heavier would have been too much. Corduroy is cotton after all, which means the cloth does not breathe very well. It turns out a corduroy suit is an incredibly versatile staple item for my wardrobe. Will likely have a second one made next year.

I will post pictures soon, need to have them taken and this is the busiest time of the year for me.

cheers, David