Grey Herringbone cloth for peak lapeled SB

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
Post Reply
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Mon May 02, 2011 1:20 pm

Perusing the online Dugsdale online catalog, English&Town bunch, I was wondering if 9411 - Grey classic herringbone or 9470 - Charcoal classic Herringbone (both 13/14oz - worsted) would be suitable for a stroller type of coat (albeit single breasted) to be worn with a vest and striped trousers in Italy, mid September, in a formal occasion.

Maybe a 13/14oz cloth with a vest is just too much in late summer (between 24°-28° C, I guess)?

My taylor proposed a dark grey herringbone 10 oz Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth to go with the vest; I haven't made up my mind yet.
What would you advise?
Thanks in advance for your advice

M.P.
Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
Contact:

Mon May 02, 2011 1:41 pm

Any coat worn with a vest in 28 deg. C weather will feel hot. It's the layering, not the weight of the cloth.
Strollers may be SB as well as DB.
If it's a summer ensemble, I would advise for a DB stroller (so you don't need a vest) made in a porous fresco that can very well be 13-14 oz if you like the feeling and look of a substantial cloth (as I do).
A herringbone weave worsted will be tightly woven, irrespective of the weight, and it will wear hot. Add the waistcoat and you risk a stroke :)

Here's your recommended rig:
Image
Replace the trousers if you prefer (or already have) striped ones. Hat, gloves and umbrella optional :wink:
Simple, chic, comfortable.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Mon May 02, 2011 2:09 pm

Thanks Costi for your sound advice, I'm sure I would be better off without vest (and maybe 28°C in a mid September afternoon in Milan is wishful thinking or a 2003 repeat :) ) but I think I misguided you because of a mistake I made.
I guess I mispelled the type of coat: I had in mind what in Italy is called mezzo tight (which is, roughly, a morning coat without tails - bear with me).
I know your suggestion makes sense more than my choice, but if you were to wear such a coat, what would you prefer?
Thanks for sharing your experience

M.P.
Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
Contact:

Mon May 02, 2011 2:28 pm

MP, no misunderstanding, I hear you loud and clear :)
Il mezzo tight Italiano ed il "stroller" Americano sono la stessa cosa. The stroller can be single breasted, worn with a waistcoat, or double breasted, worn with or without a waistcoat:
Image
The DB version is not an orphaned suit jacket. It is made ventless, with jetted pockets without flaps.
They are both semi-formal day wear. Just like a dinner jacket can be SB or DB, too.
My own stroller is a black fresco DB. In winter I wear a dark gray SB with the pocket flaps tucked in (it's vented, but who cares) with a waistcoat.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Tue May 03, 2011 2:31 pm

Thanks Costi. Is your SB stroller coat notch (as in the picture) or peak?
For this particular occasion I'll opt for peak SB and hope for moderate weather, as I find it a little more formal; still I find the DB on the right in the picture really tempting... I just have to find the excuse to place the order for both :)
Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
Contact:

Tue May 03, 2011 8:08 pm

Mine is notch lapel, as in the picture.
Of course, the SB peak worn with a vest IS more formal, but since the entire thing is semi-formal anyway... I hope you'll enjoy the occasion, that's what matters most! :D
rodes
Posts: 426
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:28 pm
Contact:

Wed May 04, 2011 4:13 pm

Screaminmarlon, I actually have the Dugdale 9470 charcoal herringbone in a DB suit the coat of which I employ as a stroller with odd trousers in cool weather. The clor is rich and dark, nearly black. I like it very much. However, it is substantial cloth and wears warm. Seems to me that I would be uncomfortable wearing it in September in the mid-Atlantic US even without a vest. Would likely opt for the oxford gray fresco until late October. Hope this helps.
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
Contact:

Thu May 05, 2011 9:34 am

Thank you Rodes, your answer is really helpful because I do not have first hand experience of the cloth (usually I buy cloth from a nice shop in Milan - Il vecchio Drappiere, via Meravigli 16 - where sometimes I find the odd vintage cloth - original Reid and Taylor worsted, etc...) .
This leads me to think about using the Dugdale cloth for a winter version of the stroller, while I have yet to find a more appropriate substitute.
It's a real pleasure to be part of the Lounge!
Saluti

M.P.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 46 guests