Stock lasts

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

uppercase
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Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:46 pm

Michael, are those shoes really 20 years old?
alden
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Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:10 pm

Yes, they really are...maybe more by a few months

"Maintenance is the sine qua non of elegance."- H. de Balzac
Collarmelton
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Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:32 pm

I daresay all the New Yorkers will have a particularly elegant weekend cleaning the salt and slush off their shoes. But at least we don't have to tread through manure-choked streets, as Blazac did. For what it's worth, I find EG's 888 last in an "F" wide fitting to be appealing, as the wide front portion sets off the narrow waist quite nicely.
Guest

Sat Feb 17, 2007 3:58 am

Mr Alden:

Great condition for 20 year old shoes. How often would you wear them? (Your shoe rotation must be good).
Last edited by Guest on Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
zegnamtl
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Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:12 am

Collarmelton wrote:..... I find EG's 888 last in an "F" wide fitting to be appealing, as the wide front portion sets off the narrow waist quite nicely.
The best fitting EG combination for myself as well.
alden
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Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:30 pm

Great condition for 20 year old shoes. How often would you wear them?
All four pair of vintage black shoes look about the same. What does that tell you?
kolecho
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Sat Feb 17, 2007 2:58 pm

The Forrest last from Carmina makes a double soled blucher boot look, if not sleek, at least nicely proportioned. From the pics, it seems that Rain and Robert are terrific, but I have not seen them in person.
The "Rain" last by Carmina was used in the LL's second Limited edition Spanish chukka boot in cordovan leather. Those who participated in the offering might be able to speak about the last, onethat has been very well received in Europe. I suspect it is winging its way Stateside these days.

The Rain last is an elegant last, no doubt. It is however only available in D and E fittings AFAIK.
RWS
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Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:02 pm

alden wrote:. . . . Might be a good time to do an LL Limited on the 88.
That would interest me, though sizing from this distance might be so difficult as to deter me. An oxford on this last could be very handsome indeed.
kolecho
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Tue Mar 13, 2007 11:33 am

smoothjazzone wrote:I may be in the minority but I have uniformly found all EG shoes to be incredibly uncomfortable including these special edition shoes (for which EG made a "MTM" last especially for me in a 11.5A fitting). My favorite EG last (visually speaking) is the 89 (the last used by Purple Label).

The best RTW last I have seen is the Vass F-last (the "Florence" last designed by Roberto Ugolini). I consider the round-toe F-last to be superior to all the EG, Lobb and other RTW lasts out there. In fact, Ugolini is #1 on my "bespoke shoemakers I would most like to try list."
I second F last! Comfortable yet subtly elegant.
Slewfoot
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Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:45 pm

Wow! What a fantastic and informative thread. I have a question regarding the 32 last and figured this place was as good as many to form a consensus from those who have it. The shoe in question will be a Dover in Chestnut and the width will be a C.

It seems like people generally feel that the 32 and the 202 fit pretty similar. For those who have both, do you think there is a difference between the insteps and length of the toe boxes? Is one higher/lower or longer/shorter? My feet are quite tricky to fit so any minor details in those two regards can make a good amount of difference to me.

Thank you in advance!
Merc
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Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:09 pm

the OP specified both the last and width fitting and especially like a number of lasts in a 'C' fitting
but the thing that shocks me about this post is: who the heck wears a 'c' fitting...
there was a lot of discussion of C's and im just surprised that there could be all that many men in that width.
Based on what i know about other fittings for 3 or 4 english makers (Grenson, C&J and Sargent-ive never owned EG, i've only tried them on) with slight variations a UK E is a US D, a UK F is a US E and depending on maker, and a G is about a US EE (maybe EEE in a few cases?)
Extrapolating then, a UK C would be roughly a US B, which really only exists in women's shoes....men's US b widths or even US C widths are almost never sold in the US unless specialty maker or size

so... is part of the reason are these lasts are so elegant in a 'c' fitting is because theyre made for a 2% slice of the male population with very narrow feet?
alden
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Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:20 pm

The shoe in question will be a Dover in Chestnut and the width will be a C.
If you are a C fitting then I suggest you go for the 202 as it is very good looking in the narrower lasts. What is a potato in an E is so sleek in a C.

As regards narrow fittings, many men wear shoes that are too wide and short; and the reason is that most shops only stock wide widths. Why? Because you can sell a man a thicker sock but if the shoe hurts for being too narrow you can't sell it at all.

Wearing shoes that are too wide has some pretty severe consequences for your feet, so make sure you are measured properly.

Cheers

Michael
Merc
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Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:56 pm

alden wrote:
The shoe in question will be a Dover in Chestnut and the width will be a C.
If you are a C fitting then I suggest you go for the 202 as it is very good looking in the narrower lasts. What is a potato in an E is so sleek in a C.
As regards narrow fittings, many men wear shoes that are too wide and short; and the reason is that most shops only stock wide widths. Why? Because you can sell a man a thicker sock but if the shoe hurts for being too narrow you can't sell it at all.
Wearing shoes that are too wide has some pretty severe consequences for your feet, so make sure you are measured properly.
iagree that shoes too wide leaves your arch unsupported in any way but C is a very narrow fitting
but i am a snug UK F, can even wear a G with thicker socks, so, we've got a lot more potatoes in that width
Slewfoot
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Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:18 pm

Merc wrote:
alden wrote:
The shoe in question will be a Dover in Chestnut and the width will be a C.
If you are a C fitting then I suggest you go for the 202 as it is very good looking in the narrower lasts. What is a potato in an E is so sleek in a C.
As regards narrow fittings, many men wear shoes that are too wide and short; and the reason is that most shops only stock wide widths. Why? Because you can sell a man a thicker sock but if the shoe hurts for being too narrow you can't sell it at all.
Wearing shoes that are too wide has some pretty severe consequences for your feet, so make sure you are measured properly.
iagree that shoes too wide leaves your arch unsupported in any way but C is a very narrow fitting
but i am a snug UK F, can even wear a G with thicker socks, so, we've got a lot more potatoes in that width
Michael - thanks so much!

Merc - I think it primarily depends on the last at hand. For example, the 202 and 82 lasts are too different animals both in looks and feel. The 202 in a C width is very elegant and balanced and fits almost more like a standard D width since it is on the slightly wider side to begin with. The 82 in a C width would be to the point of too tight for most people and the look of it would start to lean towards torpedo-like, at least I would imagine so.

Finding the right balance between the correct aesthetics and the correct width is a bit of challenge, but worth it in the end!
tazmaniac
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Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:16 pm

I am a 7.5 UK D fitting in the 82. It would be interesting to see what other combinations are possible. Here is a picture:
Image
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