Interpretations of the Anderson & Sheppard style

[windchildgmt]

Dear LL members,

I am currently doing some background research to narrow down choices for a bespoke tailor in England and would be most grateful if anyone could give some insight into the various A&S alumni's interpretations of the A&S soft style. While the A&S style is loved by many for its relaxed, easy and comfortable quality, my preference is for a cleaner, lean look with less folds of fabric in the chest (or what they sometimes term "drape") and hopefully something a bit more sharp or structured without compromising that elegant ease. Purity of line combined with that degage elusiveness of the A&S style would be the "holy grail" for me, so to speak.

The independent cutters/tailors I can think of who represent themselves as cutters in that tradition are Thomas Mahon, Steven Hitchcock, Fadia Aoun (taking over from Brian Russell), Edwin Deboise and Jonathan Quearney.

Many thanks in advance for your counsel.

Cheers
Grace

[Concordia]

Their website pictures are actually pretty representative of what they do.

Mahon can be on the very soft/unstructured end of the scale.

Steed's work looks much like what A&S do, although his personal approach puts a fair bit in the chest. I could not say what part of that difference comes from his cut, and what from other technical aspects (or just personal taste in applying them).

Hitchcock creates a silhouette that is a bit more like standard SR, although his jackets are also quite soft. From what you're saying about your preferences, he might be a good first stop.

I've never seen Quearney's or Aoun's work.

There's a thread on A&S alumni at http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=67722 that has a lot of pictures and discussion.
Most recently, there have been a lot of successful Steed suits pictured, that are fairly representative of his work.

[steve harley]

Not mr quearney!! Article to follow shortly regards.

[GSC]

Dear Grace,

I've worked with Edwin over the few of years, having tried a number of other tailors previously. Edwin's style is very soft with a bit of drape. The photos on the LL reflect his work well. Unlike some tailors I have tried, however, Edwin listens well and is quite flexible. For example, I prefer more drape; some of his customers prefer less. In my case, the results have been excellent and working with him has been an absolute pleasure, so I wouldn't hesitate to meet with him and discuss your preferences.

Good luck in your search.

GSC

[cdo]

Grace
I have to say that you should not discount A&S straightaway. The coat you get from them will depend on the cutter that you are assigned (or ask for) and how able you are to articulate the style that you prefer. My A&S coats have soft canvassing with minimal shoulder padding but they do not have exaggerated folds in the chest and back nor wide, extended shoulders. There is some drape but the coats would be considered fairly clean looking with the waist nipped in. They are very comfortable and I have no problem in wearing them all day long. And contrary to the perceived A&S folklore, I have always found my cutter flexible and willing to cut a style that suits me whilst maintaining the overall look that every tailor I've used or visited have recognised immediately.

- C

[Bethlehemtown]

In New York, the great interpreter of the Anderson-Sheppard style is Mr. Cheo. I'd been an Anderson fan for years, and then discovered that Cheo, in my estimation, does an even better job of it. Stylistically pure in the school of drape and soft construction, and exceptional workmanship.

[jlazarow]

[quote="cdo"]Grace
I have to say that you should not discount A&S straightaway. The coat you get from them will depend on the cutter that you are assigned (or ask for) and how able you are to articulate the style that you prefer.


In my experience this is completely accurate for A&S. When I became a customer a few years ago, they were happy to talk with me about what I was looking to achieve in look and style. I also mentioned, that while I admire the traditional suits my father had made, I wanted something with a bit more shape. In regards to the single breasted suit, they added a bit more shape and their double breasted style is divine. While I have asked for a bit of a return to their more classic shape, I have not had a suit that is sloppy or contains excess folds. Mr. Hitchcock is a gentleman and a real talent.

I have tried other tailors and I have liked all of them! I think they have their merits and their limitations. However, when it came to the soft cut, I find A & S to be a superb value, very high quality, and happy to work with clients. My recommendation is to meet with Mr. Hitchcock at as well as with some of the other tailors. See their work and ask them what they recommend is best for you. And do not worry if you want to try other tailors, I think its part of the fun!

[uppercase]

In New York, the great interpreter of the Anderson-Sheppard style is Mr. Cheo. I'd been an Anderson fan for years, and then discovered that Cheo, in my estimation, does an even better job of it. Stylistically pure in the school of drape and soft construction, and exceptional workmanship.

High praise indeed!

[Jordan Marc]

Windchildgmt:

If it's a more structured suit you want, take a good look at the attractive site of Welsh & Jefferies, which has been around for about a 100 years, and if you're located in London or plan to visit, stop in and chat
them up. For a close-up look at the firm's workmanship, Google Made by Hand--the Great Sartorial Debate. This is Jeffery Diduch's site. Scroll down until you find the entry for Welsh & Jefferies and pay close attention to Jeffery's remarkable dissection of the W&J suit and do read his comments.

JMB

[steve buckley]

Not mr quearney!! Article to follow shortly regards.

just an honest appraisal..my experience at j quearney was not good ,the front of house man has no decorum and seems to know nothing about gentlemens clothing,i am a large man and sought his advice, result!! i commisioned suit disaster it felt mtm or cut off block not what i expect for £2000! wore it once button on coat came off ! i have since found a proper tailor on cleveland st.soft , made on premises,delighted, recomend paul kitsaros especially if you are a large chap like myself fondest regards portly of portland place

[darte]

In New York, the great interpreter of the Anderson-Sheppard style is Mr. Cheo. I'd been an Anderson fan for years, and then discovered that Cheo, in my estimation, does an even better job of it. Stylistically pure in the school of drape and soft construction, and exceptional workmanship.

That is because Cheo is Japanese and has more handwork (which is either standard or optionally available) than Anderson & Sheppard. In quantity of handwork and all around craftsmanship and quality, Japanese bespoke tailors tend to be on par with Italian bespoke tailors and, with a few exceptions (such as Ozwald Boateng and Andrew Ramroop/Maurice Sedwell, who, as English Savile Row bespoke tailors, are also on par with Italian bespoke tailors in quantity of handwork and all around craftsmanship and quality), better than English (Savile Row and non Savile Row) bespoke tailors.

Would the fact that Cheo is actually Korean alter your conclusion?

[orie0329]

I've had four suits cut by A&S, and it's four too many. They tend to sag quickly and do not provide a good shape. While the cutters at A&S are very pleasant, they do have a large client list and can rush you a bit. That's why they're a bit cheaper than other shops. There are very few decent tailors left on the Row. The best is Malcolm Plews at Welsh and Jeffries - but get to him quickly becuase he's retiring this year.

[Scot]

I've had four suits cut by A&S, and it's four too many. They tend to sag quickly and do not provide a good shape. While the cutters at A&S are very pleasant, they do have a large client list and can rush you a bit. That's why they're a bit cheaper than other shops. There are very few decent tailors left on the Row. The best is Malcolm Plews at Welsh and Jeffries - but get to him quickly becuase he's retiring this year.

You have just ruined my day. I am seeing Malcolm on Thursday and I shall get down on bended knee and ask him to stay at his bench!