'Quality' vs. Fit ??

[britishrail]

I am new here. Hello.
I am in the market for 2-3 new suits.
After pricing various options where i live (Boston) - i see that i can purchase a higher quality suit off the rack (Zegna, Isaia..) or for the same price have Barneys New York make one Made to Measure - presumably a better fit but perhaps with not quite as nice fabric.

Any advice on how to go on this ? I believe the Barney's suits are made by Caruso, who i am not familiar with .

[simonc]

Caruso are good, but they make to a number of quality levels so it's important to ascertain what you'll be getting.

If the Isaia OTR fits I'd take that as the quality is good (better than topline Caruso in my experience), and MTM can be a bit of a lottery. That said, if you have unusual proportions the MTM may be the better option.

Throwing in one last element of opinion - all the makers you list produce lightweight Italian suits. If you can find a true bespoke maker locally you may be able to get two handmade suits in a slightly heavier fabric than your three OTR / MTM, which should look better and last longer.

[britishrail]

Thanks! that seems like good advice. So, MTM is not always all its cracked up to be i take it ???

[simonc]

I think the devil in the detail is the phrase 'cracked up to be'. 'Hyped' might be another term - MTM only amends the measurements of the individual elements of the block, which means at the margin there are limits to what can be done to compensate for the individual's physique, and the outcome is reliant on the competence of the fitter taking the measurements. There will be an appreciable difference between the MTM garment created by an experienced fitter and that created by a new salesperson - the former knows how to manipulate the measurements to produce the output that will most benefit your form, whereas the latter takes measurements as instructed and plugs them straight into the order sheet.

I'd ask who will be doing the measuring and ascertain their experience, and if possible canvass (no pun intended) opinion from those who have already commissioned garments from that fitter. The other point I was trying to make was that if off-the-peg garments seem pleasing to you, then there is a lot to be said for buying them - there's no guarantee that something made to measure for you will please you any more, and there's a risk you'll like it less. You'll certainly not know what you're getting until it's too 'late'.

[Costi]

Welcome to the Lounge, britishrail!
But why quality VERSUS fit? Do you see them as opposed or excluding each other?
If ever pressed to choose between a well fitting suit in an average cloth and an ill-fitting suit in an expensive cloth, I'd choose the former without thinking twice. However, in most cases one may have both a decent cloth (and workmanship) AND a good fit at almost any reasonable budget level.
Check out how the RTW suits you have in mind fit you – if you are lucky, RTW may be right for you. If they don’t, consider why: if the cut needs slight improvements, perhaps you could get a good fit with MTM; if you have special requirements and you know you are hard to fit (depending on your physique), you might like to go bespoke to spare yourself a few disappointments. You might as well go bespoke from the outset – this way you can choose the cloth you like, you have a better chance to get the fit right with a pattern drafted for your body and you can style the suit as you like it, together with your tailor, rather than check a couple of options available in an MTM programme. So, what is it you’re after?

[old henry]

britishrail, here are two tailors in your area...Joe Rizzo in Cambridge. And..Raymond Buckley, Raymond Personal Tailors on Federal st Downtown. I do not know them but a trusted friend recommends them.. Dont wast your $ on MTM..