The ideal smoking jacket

[YoungLawyer]

As my last bespoke venture was a tediously practical lounge suit, I am tempted to get a smoking jacket as my next indulgence. Consequently, I wonder what the members of this forum think is the ideal smoking jacket
I realise that a smoking jacket could be either: (i) a short d/b velvet coat, probably with silk quilted shawl lapels and frogging; (ii) a longer velvet sb coat, still with shawl quilted lapels with a tie waist; or (iii) a long silk house coat.
Ede and Ravenscroft seem to do a reasonable mtm service on options (i) and (ii), and as a smoking jacket can be cut so as to accomodate a dinner jacket beneath it, it sounds like a good option for mtm rather than full bespoke. I looked at their made up offerings today, and noted that option (i) was ventless, and (ii) which was almost knee length, had a single pleat at the back.

Have any of you had smoking jackets made? What has been your inspiration? What features worked and what didn't? And did you have yours cut very loose (as a Victorian/Edwardian over-jacket might have been), or closer fitting?

[st.tully]

Excellent topic!! And timely too as I will be in London next week and one of the items on my list is a smoking jacket - hopefully on sale. I was in London a few months ago and noticed the smoking jackets at E&R at the Chancery Lane shop. I'd love to go bespoke at Poole and partake of their superb blue velvet but have not yet finished my basics there. Another thought is commissioning a dressing gown/smoking robe at Budd. Thinking a dark blue W.Bill wool with quilted collar and cuffs - perhaps some burgundy piping.

BTW - are you a barrister or a solicitor? I am a lawyer here in the US and spend most of my time on criminal matters.

[ay329]

Must go DB for the shawl jacket.

[YoungLawyer]

I hope you found something in the E&R sale. I haven't yet asked them, but I was under the impression that their mtm service for smoking jackets might not be more expensive than their rtw ones. They certainly can't make very many. If it's true, then it's a good choice. There were a few in their savile row store a few weeks ago, which showed a little more variation. I thought the midnight blue velvet would look stunning with black silk facings, but am undecided about the length and whether it should have vents.
Having looked around at the rtw offerings around Savile Row and Jermyn St, it seems as if there is quite a lot of variation in terms of length, the number of cord fasteners, the height of the side pockets, whether they are flapped, the number of vents, the shape of the lapels, and whether they are corded - in addition to having quilted silk facings. Surely someone here must have some opinion on these matters! Has anyone on this board worn one of the longer 'smoking robe' styles?
St Tully, I'm a barrister, working mainly on commercial law. What's the smoking robe at Budd like?

[alden]

Younglawyer,

If I were to make a smoking jacket it would look like one of the two below. I think the frogging of the traditional version is a bit OTT and tends towards costume.

I very much like Windsor’s choice of velvet cord in green for his jacket. It embodies chic because it is not at all self conscious. If I could find the right shade of olive green cord, it would be a strong contender.







As far as a smoking robe is concerned there is only one address and that is Charvet.

Cheers

Michael

[John H. Watson, M.D]

Dear Young Lawyer,

I am in fact a barrister as well. A pleasure to meet you. I have always been searching for an ideal smoking jacket. While I agree with Mr. Alden and I do like the Duke's smoking jacket(especially his bow tie in the black and white photo, is there a place were I can find them?), I like your option 1 and 2 better. A slight and discreet details of hand quilted shawl-lapels and simple embroideries on the sleeves by Hand & Lock could be very elegant indeed and also with a hint of the old world. Anderson & Sheppard makes excellent bespoke smoking jackets that are displayed in their store. Perhaps that could give you some ideas.

Meanwhile, I have tried to search for some decent photos of a decent smoking jacket online but with no success. Will any fellow member of the LL help to post some photos?

Thanks a million,

Watson

[old henry]

I used to make smoking jackets for A. Sulka and also handmade robes for Alan Flusser and The Saks 5th Avenue Club.{ just one for the club}. I still make them now and then. Some of the old school ones were made of heavy vicuna or cashmere. The facings of the same. Alan Flusser liked these. They might be more comfortable and more relaxing and they might not be trying so hard. Just a thought.

[alden]

[alden]

They might be more comfortable and more relaxing and they might not be trying so hard. Just a thought.

Frank, a house coat or smoking jacket made in camelhair or a camel color cashmere blend in the Duke's DB shawl collar design self facing with horn buttons would fit the bill as well. Ease in every sense of the word.

Cheers

Michael

[old henry]

A smoking jacket or dressing gown in camel hair , vicuna or camel color cashmere with a self facing is an old A.Sulka style. Very old. Funny you should say that michael. The brown horn buttons would humble it up just enough.

[alden]

The brown horn buttons would humble it up just enough.

I think I would use DB sized buttons since it is a 4 x 1 and the 50/50 wool/cashmere that I have is of a pretty good weight (500 gms.) The color and amount of marbling in the buttons would be key. I have a lovely silk lining made in Italy in a cream/tan color that would be perfect, since we are talking about "perfect" smoking jackets. And maybe a lovely quarter stitch would be nice to complete the slight rustic feel of the jacket....

Frank! This is a good example of the bespoke slippery slope, the one that leads to the initiation of new and unforeseen projects.

Cheers

Michael

[old henry]

Yes , Michael , the DB size and good marbling. Not the darkest one - the more brown. { soaked in olive oil } Would we do slightly over-sized patch pkts ? Whatever you say on pockets I will go with..The softest shoulder. No haircloth in the canvas.

[alden]

If the jacket were to be a shawl collar then patch pockets would not work because there are too many rounded elements at work. A rounded shawl collar calls for a contrast in the way of the sharp edge of a jetted pocket.

But another great idea would be a DB peak lapel model with patch pockets made as we have imagined from a camel cloth, horn buttons etc. The advantage would be in the ability to wear the coat more easily away from home. So many good choices…

Yes and it should be made as soft as possible. It is not a fortress we are building to affront nature or man. It is a kind of elegant cocoon to relax in.

Cheers

Michael

[old henry]

Perfect... Lets do it .

[YoungLawyer]

I think the element of the smoking jacket that I'm most keen on is the quilted shawl lapels.
It's important to think of the use that one might have out of it - I didn't imagine anything that I'd wear out of the house much, unless I were staying somewhere very cold indeed. I've never thought of going to a black tie bash wearing a smoking jacket, and wouldn't do so, unless I were hosting. So I wouldn't be so keen about something similar to a db dinner jacket.

If option (i) is the most instantly recognisable style for a smoking jacket (which it probably is), are there any variations that you might make? What about only having a single fastning for greater simplicity? What's the ideal length?

This is an example of (ii), from an old Ede catalogue:
http://northeast.greatbritishlife.co.uk ... /91363.jpg
They still make these, and there is much to recomend them (but not in that purple - that IS trying too hard!)