Double Breasted Suit

[rodes]

I very much like the db suit and believe I have the age and figure for it. However,in my professional life I never see them. Are there any suggestions on how to where one for business and not look out of place?

[Costi]

Great question! Choose a plain cloth (dark gray worsted, for instance) and a simple, elegant cut that doesn't draw attention to unusual detailing. Wear it with aplomb, unapologetically, like the natural thing to do (which it is, too). Don't overaccessorize, keep shirt and tie simple, so you will minimize the impact of dress in your general appearance until you gain confidence.

[alden]

Great question! Choose a plain cloth (dark gray worsted, for instance) and a simple, elegant cut that doesn't draw attention to unusual detailing. Wear it with aplomb, unapologetically, like the natural thing to do (which it is, too). Don't overaccessorize, keep shirt and tie simple, so you will minimize the impact of dress in your general appearance until you gain confidence.

Great answer. Fashions come and go. The DB has been on the shelf for awhile now. It is slowly coming back. I think the advice Costi has given can be extended to all of our dressing habits as few people in professional life even attempt to dress well anymore. So by default someone who pays even the slightest attention to their appearance immediately stands out from the crowd.(This too will change.)

[rodes]

It seems to me that this is very good advice and I will take it. Thank you.

[pupsik]

Are there ideal weight suggestions for this type of suit (assuming no hot or cold extremes)?

Michael

[alden]

Are there ideal weight suggestions for this type of suit (assuming no hot or cold extremes)?

The heaviest you can wear without being too warm in the environment you wear the clothes

Michael

[rodes]

For me that would be 15 ounce flannel or worsted for winter,13 ounce worsted for midyear,11 ounce worsted for summer. I live and work in Pennsylvania where we have frigid winters and hot summers. Might even go an ounce or two lighter for summer.

[Costi]

I'm glad you like my idea. Rodes, try to change the cloth type for summer rather than go too light - an unlined mid-weight fresco (or similarly porous cloth) works better in heat than light worsted.

[pupsik]

I am now looking at some beautiful dark blue 13 oz Henry Lesser swatches, comparing the hopsack and twill weaves. For the purposes of making them up into a DB suit, would one expect one to wear ("breathe") differently than the other based on the pattern? It seems to me that the more experienced people become in sartorial matters, the more they gravitate towards heavier clothes to maintain superior look and drape, then working with nuances within the fabrics to achieve their everyday requirements. Going back to my question, would a 13 oz hopsack "run cooler" than a twill in the same weight?

As always, I am very grateful for the insights I received here.

Cheers,

Michael

[Costi]

A business application in hopsack should be judged on a case by case basis given the cloth's more casual character, but I think it would wear cooler than a same weight twill. A DB coat wears a bit warmer than a SB anyway because of the front overlap, but you can at least have the back unlined if the cloth is heavy enough to hang well without the added weight of the lining and porous enough to breathe.

[DD MacDonald]

Michael - you should also consider a blue herringbone, it has a subtle surface interest in blue and looks great in a DB. Additionally, the herringbone is probably a bit better suited to business settings than a hopsack, though I can't put my finger on the reason why at the moment.

As to warmth, 11-13 oz is pretty universal and will serve you well unless you are somewhere very warm or very cold, even then it will work for the less extreme situations.

If you want to go the hopsack route, I'd suggest looking at Michael's navy Mistral cloth. It's stunning but it clocks in at 16oz.

DDM

[Mark Seitelman]

I very much like the db suit and believe I have the age and figure for it. However,in my professional life I never see them. Are there any suggestions on how to where one for business and not look out of place?

Your question is "how not to look out of place?"

It depends upon your your town, occupation, social standing, position in your business organization, etc.

If you feel that it would be mark you as an "outsider" when you would prefer to be mix-in, don't get it. If an occasional remark or compliment would off-putting, don't buy one.

Instead, I would recommend a well tailored, conservative single breasted suit. It will never raise an eyebrow.

Incidentally, I have had many double breasted suits. Although I still have a good number, I now prefer a three piece single breasted suit.

Good luck.

[m-lan]

...

[rodes]

Mark, Your comments are well advised. I am hoping tht I fall within the "it depends". I am almost 60 and have never worn the DB except for a very dark gray stroller,and even then not for business. Although I surely do not want to lose work,I can handle the occasional comment and am vain enough to like the occational compliment. Most of the men that I interact with at work wear SB suits. With regard to the other specifics: conservative town,professional occupation, high social standing,owner of the firm. Thank you for your incite.

[Costi]

Rodes, there seems to be no "outside" reason for you to feel the least bit awkward wearing a DB suit. I think it all depends on YOU, on your mindset, on your confidence; and you want it, so you will wear it well! I am pretty sure the compliments will greatly outnumber comments (if any)
I don't think anyone will change their perception of you as a consequence of seeing you in a DB suit. At best, YOU will manage to change THEIR perception of the DB suit!