Thanks for the inspiration

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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porteus
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Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:30 pm

A copy of my last post in the q&a section "some practical advice for life in the countryside". Thought it might be relevant here too.

Well, thank you all for your excellent advice. A year later and I have finally commissioned my first bespoke sport coat (in Alsport 2424) with Chris Kerr. I have tried to keep it all fairly simple and casual (and perhaps a little bit louche), partly to fit in with my lifestyle, partly because I am learning. I've opted for SB, two button, patch pockets (hip), welted pocket (breast). Also a single button on the cuff (I might add to this, I'll see how it looks). I would be interested to hear you views on my choices. My first fitting is next weekend.

Regards,
Porteus
Costi
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Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:37 pm

Excellent! The one-button cuff is a great choice for such a casual coat, don't change it. Two vents in the back, right?
porteus
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Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:46 pm

Thanks Costi. No, single vent. Wrong?
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Costi
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Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:03 pm

Not wrong, but less practical and probably not better looking, either. If the tailor hasn't cut the cloth yet...
porteus
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Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:30 pm

Hmm I'll have to see where we are on that one.
Interestingly, when asked the question "single or double" I realised I didn't really know which. I looked to my tailor for advice and the answer pointed to single vent. I can now see that double might be a better option for action!

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Costi
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Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:17 am

The central vent tends to gap when you move, bend or try to put your hands in your pockets, exposing your bottom - nothing to be ashamed of, but the back flap in a double vented coat doesn't gap open in the middle (particularly useful if you have wider hips and/or an important derriere), dresses the back better all the way down and lets you put your hands in your pockets easily without disfiguring the look of the coat. The single vent is more functional on horseback :)
porteus
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Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:18 am

Hi Costi,

Thanks for that. Yes I can well see what you mean. I did intend this jacket to be quite casual and a little bit like a hacking jacket which led me towards the single vent. But I am also aware of how the single vent can get a bit untidy when you sit down.

I'll have a word with my tailor.

Who said learning isn't fun!

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porteus
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Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:44 am

The cloth has not yet been cut and after a discussion I have decided to take your sound advice Costi and opt for side vents.

Cheers,
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Costi
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Tue Nov 23, 2010 10:52 pm

Alright, timely post! :) Glad to be of help. Patch pockets aren't much of a hacking feature anyway (but they are an excellent choice for the use you'll make of this coat), so I guess your "leisure jacket" will look perfectly appropriate with two vents. Great design - looking forward to seeing pictures now!
Have you got the bottom half covered already? Your nice coat deserves the best: flannels, cords, moleskins?
porteus
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Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:35 pm

Yes, a 'leisure jacket' describes it exactly.

I have a small, but fairly decent collection of fairly casual brown, fawn and olive cords and twills. I dare say very pale or white slacks or chinos would look good like the chap in this photo is wearing? For the spring...

A pair of brown brogued derbies are next on the list.

P
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